GTSBoy

Yeah, but I recall there being sidefeed injectors and other shenanigans. ie, not buying a Neo, buying a mixed race horror story.

Um.....given that the bore on the 35 is something like 10mm larger than on the 25, what do you think? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine

Now you see, that's something that I wouldn't expect unless it did scream "2500" on top of the engine. I would have expected even checking (and having a reliable database of) block casting numbers to be beyond most assessors, let alone funding a teardown to measure bore & stroke. There may well be some insurers out there who have seen it enough times that it's on their standard list of things to check on Skylines. Consider the equivalent situation with WRXs for example......how much of a pain in the arse would it be to see if an old 2L WRX had a 2.5 block in it?

O2 sensor is likely to be fine. Hell, 20 years ago I put one from a Ford onto my RB20 because it was the most cost effective way to do it. As long as the sensor is the same tech, it's fine. But where they are not the same, it's not possible. The sensors on Neos are quite different from the older ones, for example. The boost sensor, if it has the same part number, will be the same. Couldn't be different. Couldn't cause your problem, unless you damaged/stretched a loom or pin or something while changing it. Also, they are completely unlikely to need to be replaced at any time, so you wasted your time and money there.

Yeah, in real terms, the likelihood that anyone would ever crack the shits at you for having an unapproved RB25 in an R32 has got be so close to zero that it's just not worth worrying about. OK, so I went to the effort of getting my car done properly, but if I had just a few more things on my car that would have made it hard to get through Regency, I would likely have just said "f**k it!" and done the conversion anyway. Just put a coil cover on it that doesn't say 2500 and who the hell would ever be able to tell the difference?

Something of relevance to the confusion over the Neo/vanilla nature of the engine in question. There was a short period of time where the RB25s in Stageas were a weird hybrid halfway engine using some vanilla 25 and some Neo stuff. They are effectively a total orphan and a complete pain in the arse because of it. Best avoided. I looked into it a long time ago when trying to buy a Neo for my conversion and worked out what head and all that stuff was on them, discovered I did not want one because of all that and promptly forgot all the details except the cautionary warning to not consider buying one. Once you have one, all the shit you have to do to make it work is a bit of a waste of time that you have to back out if you later need to change to either a Neo or a vanilla 25.

By the same token, if the engine hasn't been doing anything, you will probably be changing the spark plugs for no reason at all. They're not exactly going to degrade. Hell, they wouldn't/shouldn't be any worse off if it had done 30000 km in that time. Oil should be changed. It's been sitting there with whatever condensation etc was put in it the last time it ran.

Software + Z32 = Z32. But no-one in their right mind would use a Z32 AFM these days. That's so f**ken' 2010. R35 GTR type blade AFMs are 10x better. Nistune is great. The engine protections available are limited to what is present in the factory ECU, so, no, none of the more esoteric things you can do with aftermarket ECUs are possible. But then it's horses for courses isn't it? If it's a street car, then you don't really need that stuff. If it's a hack drifter (and let's face it, all drift cars are hacks) then there's no sheep stations at risk and you also don't need it. If you're racing for serious, then you should probably be using an aftermarket ECU anyway, even if the Nistune would be perfectly capable of running the engine to the same output. i won't comment on Link ECUs as a choice. If I was paying for an ECU, I think I'd pay proper money and buy a proper ECU.

Ha! ^This!!!! Who told you that? Or, more to the point, did you misunderstand what they told you? The ECU does not have a HP limit. The AFM does, and any AFM you upgrade to will also have a max amount of air (and therefore power) that it can handle. Fuel injectors ditto. Turbo ditto, fuel pump ditto, intercooler ditto (although a bit more blurry, not so much of a hard limit), etc etc.

Yeah, that's the very silly way to get a bigger RB20. The smart way to get a bigger RB20 is to put an RB25 or 26 in the sport where the RB20 was. It's a very very long time since it made sense to make internal modifications to an RB20. Rape them as they are, or upgrade to the right size motor.

My post was more sarcastic, which is what I was going for.

Technically, it was /thread at post 2.

Non turbo? Non LSD. 99% of the time.

There's.... a.... whole.... thread.

Relays are easy. You provide a dedicated (and fused) power supply cable to the relay (onto one side of the switched contact in the relay), with fat enough wiring to handle all the current that the load will use (which is one, or all 4 headlights, depending on what you choose to do). You use the original wiring that used to power the load to switch the relay. That generally means cutting that wire and placing the load side of it onto the switched contact of the relay and the incoming side of it onto the coil trigger of the relay. Provide an earth for the coil (so the original wire will run the coil instead of the load). When you turn the circuit on, the circuit simply makes the relay run instead of the original load, and the relay now supplies power from the new feed to the load. The current required through the old original wiring (to run the relay's coil) is massively less than the original load's current draw. The relay will have better contacts in it than the old switch, so should last for many years (and is easily replaceable, should it ever start playing up). The new fat power supply puts max volts onto your headlights, getting you the most light you can out of the bulbs. Win. The only time relays in headlights can be tricky is when there are complicated changeovers between high and low beam. Not really an issue in old Skylines though. As I said, I simply put one relay directly behind each globe, so they are all switched on by their original wiring, but powered from a separate feed to each headlight. Each relay has it's own fuse in it to handle the load, and there is a master fuse in the main fusebox where the headlight power is found anyway.

Did you bypass the coolant around it? Does he live in a cold enough area that this will cause grumpy cold start running?

ah.....the "P" word. Useless imbiciles. I stopped considering them as an option in the 1980s.

I have 4 relays. One behind each bulb. f**king easy to install them that way - no real re-wiring required except running power out to them.

You're going to need heat shielding between the two (exhaust and turbo outlet). Those o-rings will be nitrile, buna or something similar. You can google up their temperature limits, but I think you can take it for granted that with a black surface absorbing radiation of a f**king hot manifold, they will get damn hot. I would wrap the clamp in fibre insulation (think thin kaowool blanket) and then some reflective tape, and try to get a sheetmetal radiation shield layer in between that and the manifold with an air gap either side.

There is a complete Neo for sale on this forum right now for ~$2.5k. Barras are f**king enormous and heavy. Great if you want a drag car. Shithouse if you want a normal car that still handles. Any rebuild should not be to factory spec. Should be decent rods and pistons at the very least.

Check alternator function.

But but but......RB26!

Yuh, it's hard to believe that anyone could think that anything so cheap and nasty could be built anywhere other than ChinaBay.

That'd be 2nd hand though, not new yeah? No point in comparing apples with chimpanzees. The desirable Nismo diffs are up around $1800 new.

39654+A holds the CV on the shaft. The big one holds the CV together (I think).