
GTSBoy
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Everything posted by GTSBoy
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Fronts fit (but look wrong). Rears won't fit without a fight.
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School me on the R34 GT-Four?
GTSBoy replied to JDM_GTR123's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
All these questions have searchable answers on here already. Some as recent as last week. -
Everyone here knows RHDJapan. They're good. You also want to look at Nengun, Amayama and even JustJap.
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Need to specify "at the engine" or "at the wheels", otherwise these misunderstandings will happen.
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Half of this is true, the other half is not completely true. Splitfires are decent. Anything cheap that is "similar" are not decent. Stay away from yellow coils, red coils, any other colour other than the proper Splitfire blue (there are bodgy blue copies out there too) and original OEM black. But not any cheap black. Only the proper original Nissan part. But don't do anything to the coils unless you start to get ignition breakdown. That might happen if you get the boost up to 10 psi. But just getting the boost up to 10 on an R33 stock ECU means you'll be using twice as much fuel and it will be as slow as crap (considering the fuel consumption) and so you won't want to drive it anyway.
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Why is it overkill to go straight for Splitfire? They are the only option other than the original coils, for coils that are the same form factor. Yaris coils (or any other similar Toyota Denso coil) are good, but not a lot stronger than Splitfires. If you can get them for <$90 each, then they make a reasonable upgrade, but you still need to mount them and adapt the wiring. There are links in the trader section here for kits using Audi & R35 GTR coils that are even better options, but generally at quite a lot more $$ than Splitfires. 2nd hand coils are a lottery.
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Just the fact that they are red means throw them as far away from the car as you can and don't go looking for them They are more shit than a pile of shit.
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Is it clipped onto the under dash trim? If it were an R32, I would say it was the beeper.
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The pursuit of decent power in my auto ?
GTSBoy replied to paulzy123's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Nope. The Supra coolers are junk*. You do not want them. *They're better junk than the little Nissan ones, but still junk. They are also quite poor from a thermal efficiency point of view. Short tubes. -
I meant factory keyless entry.
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R33 instrument cluster LED swap
GTSBoy replied to SteppingHat's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
They are most certainly polarity sensitive. Hence what I wrote in the first reply. -
Um....didn't know the R33s had a driver's side actuator. R32s certainly don't. They're only useful if the car has keyless entry, which was not common in either of their vintages. If it's stuffed, you could still follow my advice & just fit a generic actuator.
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What factory one? They don't have them!! The driver's door is the master. You turn the key and a mechanical linkage unlocks the door. The switchbox detects that and passes it to the passenger door controller & the one and only actuator in the car opens that door. Search and see. Here's a clue. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/475597-clifford-alarm-install-on-r32/?tab=comments#comment-7893615
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Powersteering Rack Question R32 HCR32
GTSBoy replied to R324u's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Obviously the cap has a seal, and if the seal isn't sealing...... Equally, the big hose on the res is on the hot side of the engine bay, so can get brittle with age and crack. Let's the red stuff out there too. FWIW, my R32 has never spilled any from the res. I replaced all the hoses about 5 years ago when I did an engine transplant though, so it's not like it should leak! -
Ta.
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R32 GTR EFR 7670 Build
GTSBoy replied to Dievos's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
No E85 mentioned. -
Yes and no. Or, more correctly, no and yes. Guards have nothing to do with bonnet and grille fitting. GTR grille does only mount off of GTR headlights. I have GTR bonnet, grille, headlights & bumper on my car, with GTSt guards. The proper GTR bumper is slightly too wide/wrong shape to be squeezed onto GTSt guards, but it does fit. There are repro GTR bumpers made to suit GTSts without that extra little bit of width. It's possible that there are probably imitation/fake GTR grilles available somewhere that can mount onto a GTSt front end without having to have the right headlights, but I've never looked into it. I say this because of the existence of GTR style bumpers to go on GTSts....there would need to be a way to fit the grille without having to have the headlights too. Having said all that, in this day and age of 3D printers and Sikaflex, it should actually be possible to come up with something to stick onto GTSt headlights that would provide the GTR grille mounts.
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Turbosmart manual boost tee locked?
GTSBoy replied to JackieTran's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
A small one, at that. -
This. Always this. Even better with GTR grille & bonnet.
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How the hell, and why, did you end up with sidefeeds on a Neo?
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Why do people hate the R33?
GTSBoy replied to Laurence's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
I think it's spoof. -
dual vs single entry fuel rail
GTSBoy replied to Murray_Calavera's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
It's a big and complicated explanation that I can't be bothered running all the way through. Suffice it to say, with enough fuel flowing through a skinny fuel rail, there can be times when the pressure at the outlet end is lower than at the inlet end and this could cause problems. Centre return simply halves the length of the rail and halves the qty of fuel flowing in each half of the rail. This leads to ~ 12% of the possible pressure drop from a single entry. -
Converting R33 20e to Rb25DET
GTSBoy replied to Lockediff's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
What do you mean you searched and couldn't find the answer? It's only been asked on here about 12*10^19 times in the last 20 years. The clutch pedal installation is a case of removing the pedal box from the manual and installing it in the auto. Plus arranging for the appropriate holes and bolts in the firewall, clutch plumbing, clutch pedal switch & wiring inside. You need the manual gearbox loom (basically the whole lower looms from the lower driver's side of the engine bay). You need to get rid of a few annoying things like the neutral start inhibit circuit. I don't know why I am typing this stuff out though, because as I said, there would have to be bunches of posts and tutorials covering it. -
R34 idle control motor hose help!
GTSBoy replied to 34-GOKU's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
A little more clarity is required. 1. When you say "braised", I assume you don't mean "cooked in its own juices". I assume you mean "brazed", as in "welded". 2. When you say "brazed", I assume you don't mean that a hose has been welded. Are you talking about a metal pipe? (ie, not a hose). If you need to replace it, but can't find one, then another repair is almost inevitable. Just get it welded up by someone who knows what they're doing. If you need to try to find one brand new....good luck. Perhaps Amayama or Kudos or one of the other stockists of NOS have one or can find one for you. Wouldn't hold my breath though. Otherwise......2nd hand from a wreckers. There have to be plenty of Neo inlet manifolds sitting on shelves from busted motors.- 1 reply
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