GTSBoy

No, don't use the Hitachi exhaust housing. That would be a baaaaad idea. Just get a dump pipe made. Buy the right flange, pay (experienced) fabricator to do a good job. Boost off into the sunset.

So you will need to Nistune the ECU anyway, because you need to be able to tune it to make it run the 25 properly anyway. That can allow you to use the blinky LED of the ECU as another output to run the VCT. Look at Nistune's support docs for how this is done. If you don't do it that way, you will need to use an EBoost or something else with a window switch to allow you to switch the VCT on and off at the required revs. The coil wiring should be all the same. You just need to google up the pinout differences on the CAS and AFM, for the most part. Oh, and injectors. I don't know for sure, but it's probably the case that you will need different plugs. Probably justified in binning the sidefeeds and using new EV14 based injectors, that you can buy with loom adapters to suit the RB20 plugs. (and a new fuel rail and the spacers and stuff you need to mount it all.)

Direct connect the boost source to the wastegate and see what happens then. Will tell you if the boost controller is good or is the cause of the problem. There are a whole lot of things that can be wrong, from problematic boost control solenoid valve, to broken linkage in the wasetgate flapper. Impossible to internet diagnose, beyond the above pointers for places to start looking.

Don't put an OP6 based highflow on an RB20. It will be laggy and you won't like it. There are smarter options. Even just the 21U based highflow would be smarter. But right now, budget considerations notwithstanding, I wouldn't choose a highflow. I'd put an EFR7163 on it. Don't buy 550cc injectors, unless they are Bosch EV14 based. If they are just old style injectors they will be shitty compared to even 1000cc EV14s. You will need a clutch (because it will not live long). You will need a diff (because it will single peg everywhere). You will probably end up needing a gearbox.

The manifold side is easy, per Josh's point 2 above. But I think the OP question is more to do with the dump pipe side. In which case, don't f**k about with cutting and shutting a new flange onto the Tomei dump if you don't already own it. If you do already own it, it might be doable. But I would just get a new dump made up.

Somewhat depends on whether you have an S1 or S2 RB25. Do you have Nistune in the ECU? Otherwise, do you have a plan for making the VCT work? The main points are: Dealing with pin changes on the AFM and CAS. Differences in connectors for things like the alternator (and AC compressor, if that matters to you, which it probably doesn't). Ignitor pack/coils, which is where the S1/S@ thing comes in. Probably best you give a little more info on the type of 25. I'm not saying I've got the answers, but others might be better able to point you to the howto you want.

That is f**king smashing! That has to be the street turbo of choice.

No. Surely not!

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I've done it myself using my mechanic's generic scan tool (ie, workshop quality, just not a Nissan Consult only unit). How do you think workshops diagnose this stuff?

They do. You can use ANY decent scan tool to pull the fault codes out of ALL the CUs in the car. That's ECU, TCU, ABS/TCS and HICAS. There are even procedures* for putting those CUs into diagnostic modes and the idiot light on the dash will blink the codes at you. *that involve turning around three times with you hand on your head, shouting "Wiggle wiggle wiggle" and doing 5 star jumps while reversing slowly at <1 km/h.

Find out what the fault codes causing the lights are and you will be well on your way......

The very best shape is round, because this has the highest ratio of cross sectional area to wall area. If you make it oval shaped, you get more wall for the same number of square units of flow area, so get more friction. But provided you don't go too extreme (ie, keep the L/D ratio to about 2 or less, it shouldn't make a difference that anyone would notice.

R33 GTST seats don't look good in anything. They go straight into an R32...but they're nearly as old so they seldom look much better. S15 seats should be able to go in. At worst, you might need to modify one of the rear mounts. You do with R34 seats into R32, and S15&R34 are same era. It's also not as if it is easy to just remove rails from one factory seat and fit them onto another factory seat. The rails are not really a separate part on most of them. That's for aftermarket seats. There are not really any good budget upgrades available any more. JJR's Bride/Recaro copies are about as cheap as it gets. Or Sparco R100. But these option are still >$1k once you have the seats and the rails. And, without proper tilt/slide, they're not quite legal in a 2 door car either.

Just take the globes out and work it out for yourself. Would have been faster than starting this thread.

Oh f**k. I just pissed my pants.

Twins will be a lot easier. Single will be a lot better.

It will be awesome. The ratio, that is.

That's been hacked. The solder will be in the joins under the tape.

Such a shell is only good for reshelliing a bashed up drift car these days.

Well....yes. But it's not a small job. We're talking about near complete destruction of the rear of the car to do it.

There is absolutely no call for using a torque plate when gapping rings, unless you're talking Indycar/F1 level builds. The distortion that happens in the bore walls when the head/plate is torqued up is in all 3 dimensions, and the most important ones, when boring or honing the bore, are the distortions that push or pull the bore material up & down, causing bulges. But these are tiny tiny bulges, and I'm pretty sure there are few people and few feeler gauges accurate enough to measure them. Your own measurement error and the acceptable tolerance on the measurement will be larger than the difference caused by the lack of distortions. And that's not even taking into consideration what Bob said above.

You cannot use half shafts from a VLSD in a helical. Wrong length. Do not shim a VLSD. That's retarded.

You don't have to. They all pretty much work the same. There's the connection to the tank, the connection to fresh air and the connection to the inlet manifold. There's usually some control placed in the last of those, and the connection to fresh air is supposed to be filtered - ie the turbo inlet.

You could look at the workshop manuals for these cars that show exactly how these connections are done. Also, don't be surprised by Mitsubishi made parts on a Nissan. They don't just make whole cars. The CASs and various other bits and bobs are variously Mitsubishi, Hitachi.