GTSBoy

Hum. I just tried to message him too, but same result.

There are better options (than ID specifically) and have been for years. You should perhaps PM Scotty to find out what he can do for you. Basically, if you can get unmolested EV14 injectors in the size you need, that is best approach. But even the ones that have been decapped are pretty good.

TPS are adjustable. Non-hydraulic lifters should be checked periodically. Even if that period is so long that I've not done it on mine in many years.

The Nismos are old old tech. Modern generation injectors have vastly superior spray patterns and ability to run on really low pulse widths. If you put some effort into looking, you will find many many posts on here going on about how much better an engine will run with decent injectors. You will find that the engine will run better with EV14 1000s than it will on the very best set of GTR/Nismos, even if they are roughly twice the capacity you need. And it cannot get more easy than buying a set that come with the required spacers and loom converters. Takes an extra 30s per injector to install them. And the chances of finding a set of shitty old OEM or Nismos that have actually been anything more than given a whizz around in an ultrasonic cleaner are so close to zero that it's not funny. By now, the originals are 20-30 years old! If they are out of an engine, then chances are that they have been through the hands of half a dozen flat brimmers with no f**king idea, dropped, run full of tank bottoms, etc etc. Why take that risk? It just seems the height of foolishness. I simply cannot imagine stripping all that part of the engine apart to put in dodgy old shit when you will only have to take it all apart again to fix whatever problem you install.

Why would you buy Nismo 555s for a grand when you can buy 6x brand new Bosch EV14 based injectors for ~$600 that are superior in EVERY WAY to both the shitty old GTR injectors and the Nismos?

I don't buy the "I'm on a budget" bit. If you can't afford $600 for injectors, it's probably better to save for a bit until you have the money. Doing mods when you don't have the funds to deal with the inevitable meltdown is a risky business. 2nd hand injectors are always risky anyway. By the time you pay someone what they think they are worth, then get them cleaned and tested, you're 75% of the way to new ones anyway. Just my 2c worth.

Yes. Or on a 4 post hoist, or any equivalent that has the car high enough for you to work under it, but with the weight carried on the wheels. Um, it has to do with having the pivots in the orientation that they will be at in actual service, along with the load being passed through them being as per service. If the wheels are hanging from the pivots, instead of the pivots holding up the weight of the car, then the loads in the bushes are nowhere near the same.

It's not hard, but you need a press.

Something is going to be sticking way outside the line of the guards.

Would suggest that it's an RB20 actuator then. That's not achievable on a 25 actuator without extra boost control.

Same advice as your other thread. Don't use crungy old tech injectors when the new ones are so bloody good.

And don't waste your time with 26 injectors. If you're going to the trouble of changing injectors, at least put in some new Bosch 1000s. It's not 2008 any more.

The RB20 ECU NEEDS the resistor pack. It is meant to drive high impedance injectors. The 26 ECU is also meant to drive high impedance injectors. It's more or less the same ECU. But in order to use the low impedance injectors Nissan had to put the resistor pack on. Why anyone would suggest that you can do without it is beyond me. What a way to run FAR too much current through the switching transistors in the ECU.

Unless that's an RB20 actuator (and I can't be stuffed searching the part number to check).....then you have a whole 5 psi and your car should be as slow as all f**k. The window is easy. The stuff inside the door that keeps the window aligned (so, either the runner channels/rollers or the felt pads near the top) are stuffed.

Well, that depends on what other boost control you have. Also, there is an obvious misunderstanding as to what terms is being used here. The item in the photo is the boost control solenoid, as others have said. The "actuator" referred to by Kiwi is not that solenoid. He meant the actuator that is mounted on the turbo that pneumatically pushes on the wastegate lever. Not the same thing at all....although, obviously, related. All part of the boost control. Anyway, there are no wires on the actuator. There wires on the solenoid are as Ben said. You should follow all advice given.

"Factory" does not mean "ADR compliant", unless all the requirements are met.

The button on the kick panel will be the valet switch for a Viper (or similar) car alarm.

They may well be illegal. To meet ADRs that have to have washers and self levelling. Do they?

I think that one is for the temp sensor in the radiator and it is for the overheat fan function. It's not the one that connects to the fan though. The wires are too small to run any useful fan, for one thing. And, it is right next to where the temp sensor in the tank lives.

I was thinking the same thing.

Well, no. No belt means the compressor can't run, which means it can't make cold air. But blowing "warm" suggests that the heater tap is stuck open. Which happens, because they are old and get crud in them. Search this question. It has been covered here recently.

Security system

Synchros don't make noise while the car is in gear and under drive. The noise will either be bearings or it will be gear noise from worn meshing faces. Or both.

You don't want a "resonator" in the middle of your exhaust. You want a full size centre-offset oval muffler. Well, you would if your exhaust followed the normal path. You probably just want a centre-centre oval muffler. But the point is, you need a muffler there.

I suppose the advantage of the truck coils is you can can fit the coil cover back over the top. Most of the pencil coils are too long.