GTSBoy

I would get out of an R33 and into an S6/7/8 in a heartbeat. Not for a daily of course, and as I daily my R32 there's no way in hell I'd do it. A stock late RX7 is twice the car a grubby old R33 is, no matter how much money has been spent in the R33. They drive (handle) way better. There's almost no comparison. The RX was designed from the outset to be a sports car. The Skyline is (originally) a family sedan, tarted up by removing 2 doors.

I don't know what diff is in your car. If it is factory and if it is LSD, then it is viscous. There were no mechanical diffs in anything other than GTRs until the R34 (when a few got helicals, which are mechanical, but not as you know it). LSD oils have friction modifiers in them to make the friction surfaces work. These are not needed in diffs without friction surfaces. Viscous diffs do not have friction surfaces (unless they have been shimmed by people who wrongly believe that shimming them is a good idea).

Yuh, it's the small rubber line in that whole assembly.

Make car harder to work on.....

Skyline GT-R - BNR32 HOSE&TUBE-P/STG 49710-RHR20 49710-05U07 AUD $ 325.59

Oddly enough, there parts are no longer discontinued. Nismo have them in the R32 GTR Heritage parts list - rmanufactured.

It is not the same as a GTR. It is not mechanical unless someone has changed the centre. If it is LSD, if it is still the original LSD, then it is viscous. If it is viscous, you do not need or want LSD oil. Just normal diff oil.

That depends on how the alarm is designed to handle the sensor being connected or disconnected. If the alarm has no configuration to say "there is a sensor attached on this particular input" and does not go into fault when there is no sensor present, then it will be fine. If the alarm has a config to say there is a sensor, and WILL go into fault when it's not connected (which is a security measure that proper designers would think of) then it might not work. More likely, the alarm is so shoddily designed (with respect to circuit integrity and security) that simply plugging the sensor in is all that it takes to "enable" the input and disconnecting it is all that is required to disable it. Cutting wires is equivalent to disconnection. In this case, it won't even notice.

Air Flow Meter. Only the most important thing in determining how much fuel gets injected.

Something that doesn't weight 2 tonnes? Or the O2 sensor. Or your right foot. Or the AFM.

Only cut the yellow wire. Or booooom!

What? Do it yourself? What the hey?

Just run the hose loop to start with (if you can't get the cooler). Cut the loop and install the cooler later.

How the hell do you manage to wedge that thing into that carport? Vaseline?

Oh! FFS! Look at post #2!

No. Bearing is f**ked. There is no recovery. Replace bearing if not willing to replace CAS. Any $800 investment in a CAS would have to trigger a.....well, a change to a cranks trigger - assuming you have an ECU.

Those ones are certainly the same. I think that the RB30 sumps from Patrols might be different.

Harness is cheaper. Coils are more likely. Take your pick.

How is that going to help him? It won't help at all. R33 ECU will just drop a shitstain and it won't run.

As I said, GTR diff has very different input and output connections. You change your tailshaft and you change driveshafts. Essentially you will want/need an R33 GTR rear end to rat the stuff out of it.

I'm not sure why you would want it. It lets more air under the car, which is not desirable (aerodynamically). If it's just for looks...... Note, I have seen that lip around before. It is essentially just the same as the stocker, with that bit missing in the middle. I've never cared to know who makes it, because of what I said above.

The front diffs for all the AWDs should be the same. They are not LSD - they're all open, F160 (I think it's 160) type. The GTR rear diff is, of course, quite different to the other cars'. CV joint input on the rear end of the tailshaft. Larger axle diameter with more splines + proper 6 bolt flanges. It's a pain in the arse to use GTR diffs in other cars because of the other things you have to change. The only reason to do so is if you have very good reasons (cheap access to the stuff you need, particular diff centre you want is only available for GTr type, etc etc). Otherwise, it's often better to just keep the original R200 housing and put in the mech/other centre you need/want. That is unless the original diff was from an NA or something and only had 3x2 flanges. Nothing wrong with those diffs/housings/stub axles/flanges. It's just the tripod CVs on them that are not as robust/good as the ones on the 5 bolt driveshafts.

I don't think so.

Take it to a mechanic and get it diagnosed.

The consensus is that the best front diff is Quaiffe and the best rear diff is either another Quaiffe (for a streeter) or a Nismo pro. There are always votes for the other brands, as per Steve above, and they are valid. But I have a soft spot for how nicely helical diffs drive compared to tight mechanicals.