GTSBoy

And while that's true, it's usually the first or second thing that gets changed as soon as the board in booted up!

Yes. Anyone with Nistune software and the required Consult-USB adapter can do it in about 2 minutes. I'm dead surprised that it is still enabled!

Yuh'd think so......hence my response.

here

It will help with throttle response....that 10th of a second when you modulate the throttle is much better. Boost response is a totally different thing and, no, it will not help at all. People do it because OMG WTF !!! RB26 Godzirra!

The correct answer is Nistune.

Try 5 or 6 volts initially. You will need a decent way to create that - able to handle enough current to drive the solenoid. You want more assistance at low speed to make parking effort low, but you do not want that much assistance when going fast, because you lose all feel. And the solenoid in your photo is indeed the PS solenoid. It's bound to be able to pull a few amps at 12V. You could try measuring the DC resistance with a multimeter to get a rough idea how much current it will draw.

ITBs are much snappier (throttle response) than a big open plenum - hence why the 26 had them in the first place. Realistically, on an RB20, it is nothing more than a looks cool / internet points type of thing than being of any usefulness. Doesn't really affect how much power or torque you can make.

No. If the computer that you are thinking of is the Haltech, that is NOT the computer to worry about. The computer to worry about is not even in the car any longer (that would be the HICAS CU). Your PS solenoid is currently (likely) receiving no volts. Thus it gives no assistance. Put 12V on it and it will go feather light. Put something in between on it and it will give an in-between amount of assistance - which sort of is OK but will not feel nice all the time. You do not want to be trying to refit the HICAS CU, just to get the PS working (despite what I said in my first post, which was assuming that the car hadn't been molested quite as heavily as it sounds like it has). Putting the HICAS Cu back in would bring other problems that will just make your life hard. So forget about it. The solenoid you speak of....now, if that's the HICAS solenoid in the engine bay, don't think about it again. It is gone and you don't need it. (As proof, I offer my car, from which I have removed all the HICAS gear EXCEPT the computer. Having done a small wiring mod - which is nothing more than pulling one of its loom connectors off! - it is quite happy to run the power steering like it always did, without putting the red HICAS warning light up on the dash.) Note that I have, at pretty much all times, used the terms PS solenoid and HICAS solenoid when talking about them so that there is no confusion. The PS solenoid is just a little valve on the rack, that controls how much assistance you get. The HICAS solenoids (of which there were actually several in the car originally) provided ALL the power that moved the rear rack (and locked it out when there was a fault, in the case of the rear solenoid). Do not confuse them. As I have said several posts ago, what you will want to do is work out what either non-HICAS Skylines did to arrange for variable assistance (by speed) or what other common-era Nissans did (if that proves easier) and get one of those modules and wire it in so it can see what it needs (power, speed signal being the obvious ones) and drive the PS solenoid.....OR.....make an arduino based controller that reads the speed signal and drives a PWM output (and probably SSR) to drive the PS solenoid. The beauty of Arduino is that you can have other inputs on it (like a selector switch or variable resistor control) to vary the weight or change the shape of the assistance curve, and you can completely reprogram it if you make a mess of it the first time and don't like the result, etc etc. but it requires enough electronics brains to not blow it up.

Here's the list of things you need to upgrade to make that much power. Each one will cost $3k in PlayStation land. Turbo Turbo ECU Fuel system Clutch Gearbag Diff (rear) Diff (front) Transfer case Add in another couple of lots of $3k for rounding errors, etc. Take off $3k if you decide to go single, but add it back on for the new exhaust stuff you need. Sounds like ~$30k.

Ignore the Haltech/ECU situation. It has nothing to do with anything. Skylines (worth importing) mostly had HICAS. HICAS did what it was supposed to do, and because it was the steering system, it was thus entrusted with the more basic aspects of running the steering system - including deciding how much assistance to give to the rack. This is a speed based decision, and seeing as the HICAS CU was being fed a speed signal as an input to its primary task, it probably made perfect sense to just use that one module to do everything, rather than having a separate (steering controller) module as well. Now, it is completely possible that your car never had HICAS. If it does have a HICAS lock bar, then it probably did have HICAS. The rear subframes for HICAS and non-HICAS cars are different and there is no need (or possibility) of fitting a lock bar to a non-HICAS subframe. So, if you car never had HICAS, then it would have had to have something (a steering controller module) to drive the PS solenoid.....but as I said, I've never looked into what that module would have been. Trust that it would not have been the ECU, though, because they simply don't have anything to do with the steering.

HICAS CU lives under the parcel shelf, driver's side, near the speaker. Have a look, see if it is there. If it is not, then you're screwed regardless of whatever else is there or not. The engine bay HICAS solenoids are huge things, bolted to the chassis rail opposite the (engine) oil filter location. You can't miss them if they're there. If someone has gone full jihad on your HICAS system and pulled everything out, you will never get the PS to the correct behaviour without finding a way to get it to do what other non-HICAS Nissans do. There must be an (electronic) mechanism to change the PWM signal fed to the rack solenoid to affect the assistance. I haven't looked into how to do it, because my HICAS CU still works. I have only gone as far as thinking about what would need to be done. I'm assuming some Arduino based rig to take in the speed signal and put out a PWM to drive the PS solenoid. Alternative would be to find how Nissan did it elsewise to HICAS and rob the module out of a similar car (Maxima, whatever the hell else was same era).

Unless the new cooler is either spectacularly brilliant or shithouse cf. the old cooler, there will be no need for a retune.

Actually Ben, as much as it saddens me to say it.....he's right. Happened on my car many years ago. Power wire for the heater on the O2 sensor is in the same loom as the PS solenoid. When it burnt, it took out my power steer. Was a right diagnostic f**kin' nightmare to find it too.

HICAS computer needs: a) to be installed, b) not f**ked, c) wired up, d) receiving speed signal from dashboard.

Something is getting hot. Stops working when hot, starts working again when cooled down. A bad connection might be the cause - possibly on an earth.

As if that's the reason to not stretch like that! How about driving on the sidewall? Or loading the sidewall completely contrarily to how the engineer designed it to be loaded? Or how about setting it up to be popped off the rim edge when you hit a rock? Or completely defeating the point of rim protectors on the sidewall of the tyre? Or ruining the dynamic performance of the tyre?

This why...

Um.......you could do a search. There would be thousands of threads telling people what to do on "major" services or what to do on a paranoid just bought it service. Timing belt & waterpump, thermostat, oxy sensor are the obvious non-obvious ones.

Wierdest spambot evar!

It is time to tell the OP that there are a million million threads on here asking the same question. Some searching will turn up the million possible things that could be causing this, that I am not going to type out again.

Hhhahahhahhahahha. Um. No.

I disagree with your disagree doubly. I have personally had 2x 20DET gearboxes suffer from input bearing death just with the increased torque load from a boosted 20 making only ~175rwkW. My mechanical sympathy levels are off the fricking charts too. I have also seen a large number of other 20DET and 25DE suffer short lives with 25 turbos in front of them. The little gearboxes are not glass....they are rubber. They are as flexible as a piece of boiled spaghetti and it f**ks about with the bearing life terribly.

Haha. What he said. Basically, absolutely any set of extractors that wasn't designed by a moron will do effectively exactly the same job on an RB25DE. ie, add about 2 HP and sound nice. The factory exhaust manifold is not a bad one. There are only small gains to be had.