GTSBoy

It will be coils. They get hot, they suck balls. They cool down, they work again. Rinse and repeat.

The first one is part of the diversity radio antenna, I would guess. The 2nd one.....who knows. Probably put there by the NSA to spy on your thoughts.

Watch youtube videos on how to do it for the same series hose you are using. The Skid Factory videos are some of the best for this. Somewhere in the middle of the Bedford van series, or possibly one of the earlier series, Al spent a lot of time showing how to do this. If you do not do it right, you will get a shit result. If you have half arsed that one ^, then it's probably throw away and start again. You need a vice and/or the proper tools.

Stock boost on a Neo is only 7 psi. 5 at the wastegate spring, + 2 from the stock bleed valve. With better exhaust etc it might run a little higher, but not 12. Takes a boost controller to get it above 10 usually. There's no such thing as "engine pressure + boost pressure". 31 psi makes no sense unless you have a very large turbo shoving a lot of air down the engine's throat. How much power did it make?

That's it in the pics? Jeezus! Wide.

External port would want to be blocked off, minimum.

Take the sandwich plate off and work out which way the oil flows. Out of the engine, into one part of the plate or the other, out through some hole, back through the other, etc etc.

DKF. Designer Kustom Fashion. Sounds bad.

Make a puller. Flat plate that will go across the whole hub, 3 or 6 bolts through the steering wheel mounting holes. Big nut welded in centre. Long bolt through nut, pushing on the steering shaft. Crank away until it all breaks.

Try pulling it out of its base and see that it's a wedge.

That's f**king dodgy and I can't see how it ever had drive. Should not have reliably engaged the splines at all. What you have is a mess and I cannot tell you what the most cost effective option will be. The strongest option obviously retains the 5 bolt driveshaft with the proper CV joints. The 3x2 driveshafts won't suit your diff anyway, so cause more troubles than just having the weaker tripod joints. You would be well advised to take both to a driveshaft/CV workshop and hold them out in front of you and say "please help", in your best Leeloo impersonation. Either that or to a Nissan/Jap import wrecker.

Hardy Spicer

He told you what he used. Explicitly.

It got soft when hot.

That surface will never get that hot.

It's generally ~ -20 inHg. That sort of territory. Depends on the health of the motor, cams and idle speed. My boost controller reports -9.9 psi (which is the end of the -ve scale) at a good idle, ranging up to ~ -9 when it's idling faster or venting the carbon canister, etc.

Oil mist in the intake air can and will cause detonation (depending on how much there is). Look at the side of the connections in your existing breather system to work out what size hoses the factory uses.....and copy that.

That's nice. Gurney flap looks serious!

What studs...

Turns out the DE wiring diagram is the same as the DET wiring diagram with DET specific parts labelled. On the pasted image, ignore the bits I put the red box around. They are DET specific (basically the FPCM and the dropping resistor that makes it work). You have fused power coming in from the left, through the fuel pump relay. The switched side of the relay runs through the fuel pump to earth, and the coil side of the relay runs to the ECU's pin that activates the relay. That's it. It's effectively direct wired....just probably with thin wire.

It's not hard to do it well and legal. There is a fairly thorough work through of what is good in the oil control thread. Hundreds of pages, but the reading is worth the effort.

If the power is "controlled" by the ECU then it is very unlikely to be anything other than battery voltage. There is no sense in dropping resistors etc inside an ECU. That would just generate waste heat, which is the enemy of electronics. It's the reason why the FPCM on the turbos is a separate module. The only thing likely to be in the ECU would be a MOSFET to switch the power down to earth. (ie, it is unlikely that the ECU is the source of 12V for the pump. Instead, it is most likely that the power comes from the battery (through a fuse), through the pump and switched to earth at the ECU). If you have the diagram, post it up. I don't think I would have the R34 NA diagrams around here, unless they are hiding in the GTT manual.

Well, in that case, why don't you download the service manual and check out the wiring diagram, seeing as you're working on your car by remote?

Why don't you put a multimeter onto it and find out for yourself?

Yes, internet diagnosis is the way to do this.