GTSBoy

Yup. Same same. Not same same between 32/33 of course. Just any given RWD/AWD pair.

Yuh, custom cut gears are always cheap.

No, if I had to guess, I'd say the exact opposite. The clockspring will be deeper down. The SAS would be right at the top, because there is a pin off the back of the steering wheel hub that drives it. At least, that's how it is on the R32. I've never pulled the wheel off an R33. In fact, it doesn't matter, because I only had a car with HICAS on it for a very short time before I taught myself how to take off and nuke it (HICAS) from orbit. It's the only way to be sure that it won't f**k up your life. This is what the top of an R32 steering column looks like. SAS is what you're seeing.

Nope. Clock spring is the mechanism for making the indicators latch and release. Steering angle sensor is a separate thing. They can die. The little pin from the steering wheel that engages the sensor and drives it around can possibly break too, or if some hamfisted bumblef**k has had the wheel off and not put it back on correctly, then simply not engaged. It needs to read zero angle while the car is driving straight or it will eventually go into fault, because the car literally cannot hold a set steering angle while >5km/h for more than a few seconds. The sensor is expected to continually change value, or fault out.

You planning on a hinged flappy lid for the fuel opening?

Yuh. A winter tyre here is a summer tyre in Canadia.

Tell us. Why did it not go above 26 psi? Pinging? Turbo won't flow any more? But to go back to your sort of question.....yes, 26 psi is quite a lot of boost on plain dinosaur jizz.

What? 98bp, as in BP Ultimate 98 octane? Who's surprised? Seems reasonable to me. Want more, need more octane, no?

More than likely some numpty has f**ked with the wiring running from the front of the car back to the CC module. Get the wiring diagram out and check for continuity.

That's the resonator, or a flexible joint? Either way.....f**k!

It's missing. Likely it is one of the coils dying when it gets hot enough. Take you 30 minutes to fix it.

Actually, adjustable arms are not trivial. It's easy to set the camber arm to get the camber you desire. It is much harder to set the traction arm length to minimise bump steer. Almost no-one ever does it, and almost all installations are probably worse than the stock arms because of it. It's a circular process. Set the camber arm length to get camber right. This requires that you take a stab at changing the traction arm length also. Then you have to take it off the wheel aligner (probably), jack it up off the ground, set up your bump steer gauge, fiddle with the traction arm length until you have minimal bump steer, then put it back on the wheel aligner and check and correct the camber, then probably back to the bump steer gauge to make sure that you haven't spoiled it. Rinse and repeat until no changes are required. Might take one back and forth, or might take 6. If you take it to a wheel aligner to do the whole process, it would want to be an expert at setting up this stuff, not your local Bob Jane, etc. And it will cost a lot more for the labour/service than for the arms.

Just to be clear....the FPR is installed in the return line from the rail to the tank....yes?

That's just weird.

Shouldn't.

The KU22 (the real code for the Ecsta 4X) is hardly a performance tyre. It's literally labelled as a "comfort tyre" by Kumho. The KU36 was a performance tyre, though now replaced by the V720. I will confess that my car (R32 with 25Neo) will easily light up the rears on a launch, unless the tyres (V720s) are really warm. R32s are, however, renowned for not having as good rear geometry as they put onto the 33s onwards. And the car is also >100kg lighter than a 33 or 34, which doesn't help with weight transfer on launch. And it is set up for corners. </excuses>

I suspect it would be wise to use at least one of those top-of-water-runner fittings you plan to nuke as a bleeder. On a Neo, the rear one goes to the IACV which is a bleed point, and I think the front one is a bleed on the front end of the plenum too, no?

Was talking about the compressor wheel......

Kings low generally leaves the car at legal height. The legal eyebrow height for most R32-4 it about 345-355 mm from the top of the (stock, unmodified) wheel arch to the centre of the hub cap. You can actually do a search to find out exactly what it is for R33s front and rear.

SR for street biased car with some hope of track. I suspect Type D might be a bit wrong for the street. But that's only a suspicion. SR somewhat cheaper too.

Don't mistake 12.9 with the bolt size. The studs are indeed 12mm, but that has nothing to do with 12.9. 12.9 is a strength spec for bolts. You want 12mm x 1.25 studs. Studs will be the same between GT & GTT. No reason for them to be different. As to how to find this info out....there are wheel nut & stud suppliers who have catalogues. Nice Products is the leading one in Oz. But you could measure it yourself. The length is what sticks out the front of the hub, plus the thickness of the hub.

They're both the same. WRX one is just idling 300rpm lower than the "good" one. Both sound normal but possibly with a slight miss.

Good as it's gunna get. Just needs an extra 20mm of diameter.

I'm not going to go into the physics details, because it will start arguments, but wider tyres do not produce more grip on their own. it comes down more to larger diameter wheels allowing lower profile tyres causing less distortion of the tyre carcass which causes less internal frictional heating which then allows the use of softer compounds. And the softer compounds cause the coefficient of friction to increase, which is what gives more grip. So, technically, even without a wider tyre you could have a tyre with a softer compound and pick up grip. A good diff will help with launch traction, but it's not the only (or even the main) thing going on. There's a lot of other factors that can be wrong or right, from wheel alignment (specifically camber and toe), to spring and damper rates. I recently found that decreasing my rear ARB from 24mm to 22mm not only improved the grip in corners, but somewhat surprisingly improved launch traction. I think this is because it changed the spring-damper coupling, allowing a bit more movement (twist, if you want to think of the way the car will move as the traction load gets applied around the tailshaft). Not expected, but it's there. After that there's all sorts of other shit, like the health of the diff and subframe bushes. An no. The Vspec diff is the very very worst thing that you could think of putting in there. Have a read about them. At least it is sufficiently close to impossible for you to actually put one in there that you won't make the actual mistake of trying.

Wow. Just.....wow.