GTSBoy

Just put skinny tyres on it.

Keeping in mind that for most people this is a week to month long job!

This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.

Virtual valve adjustment popping into and out of existence in the quantum foam caused by blowby in the oil.

Hydraulic lifters.

Buy whichever one makes you happiest when you sit in it. After all, that's where you'll be experiencing it.

Well, it's just a solid core cable in an outer. Buy a (longer) cable for something else, take them both apart and build one for the 34?

Phillips. Rules the world.

No. BSP lost to the cultural/technical imperialism of living next to Trumpistan. Face it, Robertson screws were better and still pretty much lost out to the yank stuff. The Europeans hate the Brits and they don't use NPT. NPT is just as "imperial" as BSP is, being based on those useless inch thingos. Just done differently.

Well, actually I would appreciate it if the car world could get away from using that terrible North American thread form, and use BSP. But yes. Pipe thread all the way. Point of order - the Japanese do NOT use NPT. Their pipe threads are The Japanese thread form, which is same same to BSP.

There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.

The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.

Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.

Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.

Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.

3rd gear is the most common failure. There is no good idea that contains "just upgrade 3rd gear" in it anywhere.

You're already well into "gearbox is a consumable" territory there. A billet plate will either make it (effectively) 1% stronbger or make it last one more pass. At some point you'll probably tear 3rd gear into small chunks and regret all the life decisions that came before it.

Summernats cruiser?

But if you had to go bury a body in the forest, would you not put that in the boot? Most of them are >=90kg these days.

That could easily make a horrible noise. +1 to the benefits of: a) Disclosing all relevant information when asking questions such as these, b) Actually going out and having a look at your own car, seeing as you're the one there, and we're not!

Nah. Was just wondering if you were having a small stroke or if there was some slur/gaf/inside joke that I wasn't aware of.

Was that deliberate?

Look at @Kinkstaah's thread on the issue.

Overflow bottle - not catch can.

No. Only for a standard ECU with/without Nistune. Standalone has no need for it. That's like the 3rd time I've said so. And as to that sensor linked - yes, it does look like it would be the right one. I've never bothered to see how available they were - just assumed that they'd be hard to find. I think I'd be planning to go Link ECU rather than buy sensors I don't actually want to make Nistune work, if I did not already have Nistune. As you do not already have Nistune, you should realy consider your options.