GTSBoy

Sunshine Coast?

No. No they are not. Coils in any shade of the rainbow other than the OEM black and the official blue of Splitfire are to be regarded with massive suspicion. Some of them work, many of them are very cheap crap. Impossible to tell between them until it's misfiring on the dyno. There are people who swear by a particular rainbow brand, including those Supersparks, saying that they ran well for them. Those are the lucky people who managed to get a whole set of 6 good ones. Many other people got 3 good ones, 1 bad one and 2 really bad ones. Bought another set, got some different split between the possibilities. It doesn't matter these days, because no-one in their right mind would use stock format coils on an RB, now that you can buy massively strong and good quality pencil coils and conversion kits for ~double what a set of Splitfires cost. I have Splitfires and they are fine for my power level, but if they start to play up I will be putting R35 coils in.

It would be possible to set up some aftermarket ECUs to use the AFM, but many can't at all and almost everyone takes the opportunity to throw the AFM in the bin. Not having an AFM makes a lot of things easier, like turbo inlet plumbing, dealing with reversion and BOVs and so on.

^^Bogan's story is probably valid. Gearbox was recently out of my car for clutch problems. My clutch fork was considerably worn, after 10ish years of being locked inside the bellhousing and driven in traffic every day.

^^ All true, except that RB25s idle at 650.

I have FP2 and I have a Profec. I would want the ease of fiddling with the boost setting (even though you do it so infrequently that many would say it doesn't matter) from outside of Nistune, because setting boost controllers at the lights is easier on even the most obtuse Japanese boost controller interface than is juggling a laptop.

Perhaps it is more correct to say that "support" needs to be put into context. If the core is just too small (cross sectional area internally for the charge flow) and puts up a lot of pressure drop, then the turbo has to make way more boost than is eventually seen at the engine which makes the turbo work harder, increases exhaust backpressure, etc etc. Not good. So, to "support" 300kW, the cooler has to be big enough to not do that, and also big enough to shed the heat that you need it to for the use case. heat dissipation requirements for single street pulls is different than for drag is different than for circuit, etc.

Tomei and other Jap tuning house ECUs generally are just a stock ECU with a burnt EEPROM in them, with the maps changed to remove some fuel under load and add timing. Sadly, they generally assumed 100 octane Jap fuel, which means they frequently caused engines to detonate to death when used here. You can probably still Nistune it, which would be the only sensible way to run a stock ECU anyway, particularly for drift, as you are going to want to put a safe and decent tune in it. The stock tune is "safe" but not "decent", as it has quite ridiculous "rich and retard" in the upper right corners of the maps. Not as bad as on RB25 ECUs, but still, AFRs of ~10 at high load is not the way to make power.

What's the marking on the dead belt?

Any engine open rebuild is either completely stock, or....you do everything.

Is this a question? Just take it apart and fix whatever it is that broke. Could be the clutch pivot, could be the clutch itself. Could be the hydraulics despite what you think you can see.

Adjustable length arms are legal in Oz. It's just spherical joints that are not legal (unless engineered). It is a pure myth that adjustable arms are an instant defect. I have adjustable arms all over my daily driven 10000km/yr car. And some of them even have (very sneaky) spherical joints in them. FWIW, for an R32, the ONLY way to have adjustable camber worth a damn in the front, is to use the GKTech FUCAs. They are a complete pain in the arse to work with on a streeter, but they are the only ones that don't bend or break and yet still do all the things that they absolutely have to do. Every other FUCA option on the R32 is a waste of time. I have used adjustable poly bushes in stock arms. They flog out badly. I have used the I shaped one from (I can't remember where right now, but have posted extensively on the topic so you could search if you cared) and they flog out and bend at the spot where they pivot in the centre. The pivoting in the centre is the feature that led me to try them, as the rigid stock style and almost every other aftermarket arm loads up the bushings massively (causing the flogging out) because the Nissan boys did not sort out the kinematics of the arms properly. This is why they changed completely for the R33&4. On the rear, adjustable length uppers and traction rods. Then you have to make yourself a bump steer gauge so you can adjust the traction rod length to give the smallest amount of bump steer. You can't just guess and and you can't just guess when you use adjustable poly bushes there either (although there is far less possibility of f**king it up with poly bushes because they don't offer 3/10th of f**k all adjustment).

Wot he ^ sed.

I posted this on March 10

Well, maybe 10mm.

As usual, it's always something from left field!

R34 is the same as R32, I think. But there is no way that you can hook onto and pull from those "without damaging the vehicle". Maybe it's OK with a GTSt bumper and lip, but the GTR lip is substantially lower than the hooks and if you strap onto them and pull forward the strap crushes the bar upward. The only way it can work is if the rope is not very long the towing vehicle's connection point is very close to the ground. I think you have to do this

Also, $800 is a steep discount on the standard PRP price. Are you sure that you would have the coils, stalks, bracket and loom in the $800? Or are you talking in yeehaw dollars?

What shits me is when people use the word "industry" to describe something like "the (horse) racing industry" or "the nightclub industry". No kunts! These are not industries. Mining, manufacturing, farming. These are industries. Any form of service? Very hard to call it an industry. A sector, or a group of enterprises, sure. But there is no industry. I don't even like the use of the word in relation to movies, TV or music. No industry there either. Just work and product, but arguably for things that are far from essential, therefore optional. They live in a section of the economy that is economically powered by actual industries. So short people on horses can go and get fu(ked. Same with the dogs, casinos, pokies in hotels, all those miserable workers and leagues clubs in NSW and QLD (thank your imaginary sky wizard of choice that we don't have that shit over here in SA), etc etc. Dig shit, build shit. Call in an industry. Craft shit out of recycled pubic hair, tampon strings or sampled 1970s guitar licks? GTFO. Keep horses for anything other than fat arsed bitch's recreation or mustering livestock, ditto.

Measure the vertical distance from wheel centre to guard. If it is <345-350mm, do not consider going any lower. Should not be any lower than that, otherwise the LCAs will be at the wrong angle and you'll not have good handling. Although I'm guessing that in HK looks are more important than performance anyway. As Duncan already said, when you lower the car you gain -ve camber anyway, which tucks the tops in more. But....as he also said, adjustable arms are usually used to wind some of that extra -ve camber back out, not increase -ve.

Well, it's not off any "model" - as in, I really don't think it is Nissan. Some aftermarket crowd from back in the days when there was no weight limit to the amount of body kit that could be strapped on.

Welcome. Have you recently come into an inheritance, or won Lotto or something?

And they also confess that they just 3D printed them! Which makes me wonder if they will buckle in the heat worse than the originals did. Perhaps I need to hire a Chinese hacker to get the print files out of Nismo's server?

700 bloody Nismobux!