GTSBoy

Waiting for a queue of Supras to get out of the way. Then the same conversion work to the box which was probably bought about the same day as you bought yours, by the sound of it. And hopefuly with enough Supras out of the way we'll finally get to do the box into the car along with the injectors and AFM so that the last 18 months of driving a highflow nearly NA can finally come to an end.

Usually an RB20 won't stay in closed loop idle anyway. The O2 sensor gets too cold, stops swinging.

Soak that one in Penetrene. Leave, repeat, etc. Then heat.

Although the best way will be to put in an LS7. Why anyone would mess with an RB when they live in the country where the LS7 was built is a mystery that can never be solved.

But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.

Wow. Pissy much? You on a mission to find old posts to argue with, or is this legitimately just because you're 5 years into a 1 day job?

Thermosyphon.

In this case, the issue I see is that if the throttle is part open, to give the boost/power you're wanting, and the boost reference is from the plenum and thus there is less boost than the boost target, then the controller is going to have the wastegate more/totally closed and you're going to have higher EMP than you otherwise could have, if the boost reference was in the tract upstream of the throttle. More EMP is never a good thing, except in terms of response. So, in this instance, you would have really good throttle response, because the turbo is already slogging away hard and there is pressure upstream of the throttle to be had. Just with the penalty of more ex manifold pressure, with the usual consequences of that.

Note that I'm not suggesting this is a great idea. Just saying that it is something that could be done to achieve a better outcome than the more shit ideas will provide.

Yes, that's a hybrid BOV. The adjustable spring load ones are about making teh pressure build up higher before venting, so you get a more agressive whoosh. That is not what I meant or what you want. By "restricting", I don't mean "keep it closed until the pressure is higher, then open it fully". I mean "open it as soon as it is required, but only have a small port area, so that the flow rate out of it is slowed down". The pressure will rise to be higher than a bigger ported BOV would provide, but it would do while it is venting. The idea is to slow down the rate at which the replacement eair is flowing past the AFM, to reduce the magnitude of the air flow signal peak, to reduce the amount of fuel that is added per revolution.

If the toe is widly out of whack you won't get the self-centralisation that you expect and are used to. Correct the toe, then report back. As to the stuff you've used....it's really intended for drift cars.

A BOV that both has an external vent and a return pipe connection is a hybrid BOV. I wasn't talking about one of those. If you bought one of those, I'd instead just buy a return only one. I was talking about a BOV that only vents. I mean doing something, yourself, to restrict the outlet. Jamming something in there, welding something on with a ball valve on it so you can adjust it, etc etc.

Oh, I also meant to say that it is possible to use a venting BOV and restrict its outlet down so that it does vent enough to prevent the sututu, but vents slowly enough that the AFM doesn't see all the air at once and makes it easier to avoid stalling.

I'll go talk to my bank manager. Either that or my nearest western Sydney drug baron.

Driveability will be about the same with either externally venting BOV, or no BOV at all. Perhaps worse one way than the other, with me thinking that the definitely more flow going through the AFM through a venting BOV more likely to cause rich stalls than the perhaps more flow that the AFM might read on reversion. There is no such thing as "turbo damage" from not having a BOV at stock, or even quite a lot higher than stock, power levels. You need a big turbo with a lot of mass spinning hard getting a horrible slowdown from a slammed shut throttle before there is anything like the shaft loads required to damage things. Not an issue on small turbos. The ONLY 2 reasons that Nissan put a recirc valve onto the RB were: It is a bypass valve. It is open when under vacuum. When not on boost, it bypasses intake air forward around the compressor, which unloads the compressor, allowing the turbine to sping more freely, making the whole lot a bit more efficient when just puddling around. Throttle response should also be faster via the shorter, smaller diameter BOV pipe (when in NA, ie before the BOV closes and boost is building) which is nicer for driveability. Emissions. The reversion causes CO pulses. Eliminate the reversion (or at least, keep it away from the AFM) and you don't get that. The stalling/driveability aspect could have been tuned around, as shown one example of by dose above, if Nissan hadn't put a recirc valve on. Many many turbo engines before the RB had no BOV. They did not stall. See the RB30 turbo as an example. Nistune is definitely better than just stock ECU. It allows you to access and change things that are not excellent on the stock setup, and allows you to do mods like put decent injectors in, relocate the AFM, put a bigger turbo or even cams, etc, on, change to coil swith completely different swell needs, etc etc. All the things that you might need or want to do 25 years after the car was new. Aftermarket replacement ECU is obviously better again, because it gives you even more freedom from the constraints of the stock ECU. I won't be needing to go any further than Nistune though, for the new turbo in the 250ish rwkW region I'm going to, with big injectors, and most other things being stockish.

Meh, I think we're well into a new era of 90s JDM car. The days when spare engines and parts were cheap and plentiful are long gone. Therefore the YOLO approach is now massively difficult to justify, use and maintain. One should start to ponder whether an 800HP build is really justified, using stock parts. My thoughts? If you like/love the car and want to keep it and don't want to ruin yet another one, then be discrete about how much you ask from the stock parts. A 5 or 600 HP build is still a very fast car. If you want to go silly, have to have the 1000HP territory, then just drop all your cash, buy billet everything (or PRP cast block, etc etc) and use a bigger/more modern gearbag, and put a massive retrofit diff and axles into it. If you ruin any of those things then you're either ham fisted and deserve it, or you're pushing waaaay too far for the stock stuff anyway. The (presumably) young guys who are buying 30-35 year old busted arse Jap refugees and thinking they can live the life that was lived by others 20 years ago are deluded. Expectations need to be adjusted somewhat.

I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.

Essay time. First things first, an RB running stock turbo and boost levels shouldn't get so bad as to stall from reversion if the recirc valve has been deleted. Should get a little fluffy and annoying, but in my experience, not so bad as to stall. Of course, every car is a bit different, so it remains possible that stalling will happen. So, running with no recirc valve is somewhat of an option, for otherwise stock stuff. Atmo BOVs cause all sorts of shit, even on an otherwise stock setup. Only gets worse the higher the boost and the bigger the turbo. At that point you really need to go for a different ECU and no AFM. Rebuilding the stock recirc valve configuration is not hard. You just need a stock or aftermarket BOV with the appropriate adapter for the 2 bolt flange on the back of the J pipe, and to get/make an appropriate ~1" pipe to get the air back to the turbo inlet, and to possibly modify the inlet (if it is not stock) to take the recirc pipe back in. Not hard. Just takes some cutting and welding. Putting an R35 type AFM into the car anywhere is not as simple as just buying the AFM and throwing it in. You will also need to buy the appropriate boss that will then need to be welded onto the pipe where you're installing it. You can clearly see why by looking at the photo posted above. They are not a "simple" swap for a stocker. You can't put on in place of the stock AFM. You can put one in place of the stock AFM, if you get the mounting boss and weld it to some pipe and otherwise make that pipe piece work like the stock AFM housing. Or you can buy such an adapter, either complete with the 4 bolt flange for the air box, or without, for varying degrees of work needed to then make it fit your stock airbox or some pod filter or whatever you have going on. Oh, and the R35 AFM is not plug and play. The wiring is different, but changing that is trivial. The plug is also different so you either end up repinning the original wires onto the new plug, or you just use a short adapter. If you weld a boss to the cold side pipe, the cold side pipe really wants to be 3", otherwise the scaling on the meter can get a bit weird, but whatever the pipe size, it's not as easy as just using the (fully documented in the Nistune doco) simple method for choosing R35 AFM in X" pipe size in the software, because the scaling will already be a bit different. Anyway, all of this has been comprehensively worked through on the Nistune forums, so there is full knowledge available. I would use a Link/Haltech before I would bother putting an AFM into a cold side pipe. That's a lot of effort for a bodge. Nistune is great, can work well even at fairly high power levels, but you are stuck with the limitations of it being the stock ECU, which includes needing to use an AFM, which is not always convenient for every set of modifications. You have to have a think about what you already have, what you want to have, and decide early if you'd be better off jumping ship to an aftermarket ECU. This so you don't waste time and money doing things 2 or 3 times. Never heard of ECUmaster. Sounds like a backyard operation. If there are good tuners for it where you are, and it is a solid product, then it will be fine. We're only talking about an R engine here. Back in the day they all ran on crude nasty early 90s ECUs and they were fine. You don't need a rocket surgeon's ECU to run one.

That could be drilled, ground and welded. Would stop it progressing and leaking. But that block shouldn't be pushed very hard, as what you see there is a massive warning sign. But that fix also isn't going to happen properly with the engine in the car, and assembled. So you're looking at anew block if you're doing all that work anyway.

It's not as simple as it is being made out to be. It's not hard, but there are things that have to be done. Am busy right now, but will try to essay later.

Yeah. OK. I'll say the same thing I say to everyone. You do not have to use 100% throttle all the time.

Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.

Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.

Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.

Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task