GTSBoy

Oh, there's also the gearbox crossmember which will probably be different between the small box and the big box, and the wiring loom will probably need to be modified, because the plugs for the switches etc, will probably be different. And I think the speedo on the small box R34s is from somwhere stupid, like the diff, possibly, so you'd need to work out what needs to be done about that (assuming it is different). I think the thing you need to realise is that the front end of that yoke is a large hollow tube with splines on the inside that mates with the splines on the box's output shaft. It is a dedicated thing - not available "aftermarket". They were made to suit that box, by the car's OEM.

Not the headlight. It's the DRL that serves double duty as white and amber. Would be the easiest way to make it happen, if fitting a BCM was in any way an easy thing. Otherwise you'd do it with some relay logic and/or maybe some diodes.

I see what you did there.

If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.

Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.

There's no evidence that they are Maxima belts. Seems to me more like they are R33 belts, per original ask, and per bizarre sourcing route from Ireland.

That's how the huge janky reostat that was fitted to my car for compliance is set. The white LEDs are barely getting enough volts to come on.

So, it's clearly an electrical problem. Either with the gauge itself, or the sender. It appears to be voltage sensitive (ie, alternator output affects the reading.

Yeah, thumbsup from me. The distant shot of the bay just looks same-same as before.

Just another barrier put up to stop cars being modified. When we're all driving Chinese sewing machines, you won't want to modify it anyway, and you'll likely already have slashed your wrists and be locked up in a padded room for your own protection.

Yes, but no. I wouldn't want an IC7, because I think they are ugly, cramped and most of the displays I've seen are garish (and granted the last bit can probably be avoided). I wouldn't want to pay for the UC10. Probably wouldn't want to pay for the IC7, for that matter. And, it's an R32. I have cable drive speedo. Although, thinking about it, that's not a big obstacle, because at least I can throw the electronic sender back into the R33 box and then find a way to emulate the original (R32 or R33) speedo head's conversion of the saw-tooth AC speed signal into the square wave that the ECU wants, without the 1990s approach of hiding a gutted speedo head behind the dash. (another Arduino project, no doubt). I like the technical aspects of the big digital dashes, but I aesthetically and just general originality and feel-wise, like the original dash enough. More? Yes, more. If I had a UC10 I'd want to make the dash look as close to the original one as possible most of the time, and only flash up "DANGER TO MANIFOLD" when it needed to. But the other aspect of the 3-DIN slot digi gauge that I'm contemplating is that I'm a tinkerer and can barely resist a project, even if I don't need to add another to the list of unfinished ones. And I think there's enough precedent of others out there that have proven which equipment works (ie, is not washed out, or slow, or prone to failure, or all the other problems that can afflict such a project). I'm not quite enough of a micro-controller tech head that I know the best way to approach all of these decisions, and so striking out on my own to achieve it years ago would have led to unhappiness. But now, it seems like a project that I can actually achieve on the first or second go, with only a few sleepless nights. And that's why I'm actively thinking about it now. I would much rather have a thing in my car that I made from more-or-less scratch that does what I want, rather than something that someone else made that does some of what I want, not other stuff I want, and/or annoys me in some fashion. If I'm going to be annoyed, I need it to be my fault, so I know who to blame, and who needs to fix it. As an example of that - I have surveillance cameras at home. No, I did not go buy a kit with a DVR and 4 or 8 or 16 off-the-shelf cameras in a kit. No, I did not want to use any sort of could service to record or access the feeds and recordings from outside the house. No, I bought my chosen cameras directly (from China, lol) and built the DVR myself using a couple of different (ie, this was attempt 1 and attempt 2 to get a system I liked) software packages, running on Linux, with the server being a virtual machine running Proxmox. I found a way to offload the image recognition part of the system to a dedicated AI processing board (a Coral TPU, for anyone who cares) with the hardware passed through to the server on the VM, motion detection offloaded to the GPU, all storage is local in the home network, accessible from outside via my own self-hosted VPN). All done so that I could seal off the Chinese cameras in their own network where they can't access the internet and dial home to the CCP and backdoor my network. All things that you can't have if you do what is commercially available. And even with all the f**king around it has still cost a fraction of what it would cost to buy commercially.

I'm at the point of seriously starting a project to build and Arduino/mc (of some sort) based multigauge to go in the console where triple gauges normally sit. I have found a screen of the right dimensions. I would need to 3D print a bezel/housing to make it mount up pretty. That's doable. I would need to come up with interfacing circuitry for the EGT thermocouple. I'm sure there will be examples of that into Arduino out there somewhere. Ditto with characterising the output of the existing boost gauge's MAP sensor and the oil T gauge's thermistor. And then, because it is a screen, it can be controllable, so it can show more than the 3 gauges I currently have. So I can come up with a list of other things I want to be able to show on it that can be reasonably easily handled via an Arduino's inputs. I do not need this project. But the stepper gauges I'm using are giving me grief. It's time to come kicking and screaming into the 21st century.

Yes, and since RAA insurance essentially being swallowed up by the same monster that is NRMA insurance and all those other clowns, they are no bloody good now either. We dropped RAA insurance for the house a little while back because they lost the plot.

You can easily burn a thousand trying to track down leaks with the old crap. Ask me how I know.

For a real race car, remove everything that does not need to be there. For "race car", which is what 95% of these cars are, then you remove it because "race car".

Bogan's gotta boge. Dumbarse's gotta dumb.

I presume you mean Power FC. In which case, I don't know. Assuming that the one for an R34 is in fact a proper plug-in, then it should do everything that the stock ECU does. But it is also probably an even money bet that they just gave no f**ks for things like emissions controls and it doesn't work. But who cares? No-one would install a PFC from scratch in this day and age anyway. Why would you? The stock ECU with a Nistune in it is better.

Thread closed.

As closed as it ever will be. Are you wanting me to close it? Le sigh. I suppose I can. Watch me

I think you just did.

I thought DW was one of those things that people thought was the bomb ~10 years ago and since learnt not to use their stuff? Because it's not any better than a bunch of other options, and definitely worse than a number of other options.

I have ad blockers and automation breakers (like NoScript) installed on all my browsers on all my devices. I have a PiHole at home and use other forms of DNS blocking to prevent the advertisers, and more importantly, the trackers from google, meta and all those other kunnts from watching what I do. They learn NOTHING! Or at least, as close to nothing as I can make it. I don't care if google knows that I'm searching for things. But they can get f**ked tracking my every move. Plus, when surfing donkey porn, the automation breakers help to prevent driveby trojan installers.

Ads? Who sees ads?

I can direct you to a couple of videos on line where there is evidence to the contrary.

Well, twisting it to see if it has teh rigth tension is perfectly acceptable. You're not going to harm it by twisting it as far as you can. If it is too loose you will be able to twist it more, and the tension will end up the same as if you can only twist it the rigth amount or if it is already too tight and you can barely twist it at all.