GTSBoy

Hi Tao. My dump was ground out to provide clearance over the used swing arc. But when the clip fell off, the flap was free to travel too far. Got stuck. That's all. There's decent preload too. You may remember that I asked for a low pressure actuator because I wasn't able to tune the car immediately, and a proper actuator probably would have left the car undriveable. Or at least barely safely driveable. But it hasn't been an obvious problem in terms of the gate blowing open under normal use. Well, maybe it has. The turbo is quite laggy compared to stock - so an actuator upgrade will be done first after the supporting mods are done and it's dyno'd to stop it pinging. Hopefully the gate has actually been lifting early. If it has, it has been necessary for me anyway, because as I said earlier in this thread, I had to back off the ramp allowed by the boost controller, to stop it pinging. I might have been in a bit of trouble if it hadn't been as slow to build boost as I have found it. In fact - given that I will get it onto the dyno soonish - I think I'll order an actuator from you pretty soon, so we've got it there if it is clear that there's no point continuing to try tuning with the low pressure one.

They are real good. Big central grooves, sticky compound. I have no fears in the wet. Except for the first couple of miles where you wouldn't count on them to have any warmth in them yet.

Looks like the site: operator works for other domains on google, but not for PF. So either google is not indexing PF because PF finally pissed them off too much, or PF is blocking google. And....PF appears to be blocking all indexers. site: operator on bing returns lots of hits saying that they can't show info for the site.

Meanwhile, I'm struggling to find the thread on PF. I'm trying to use the site:performanceforums.com operator in the google search and it returns no hits, regardless of the other search terms. Does it work for you?

I refer you to a similar thread on PF.com recently (find it yourself, it's not too long ago). I think the general concensus is that they are cheap CCP crap with a "brand" name, and that thus the correct thing to do is buy NGK/Bosch/genuine/whatever is respectable and available. And no no-name CCP crap, which is possibly the same carp as the PAt stuff, or could be even worse.

Which tyre out of the 3 mentioned?

Contains some of the same waxes that are in the Meg's gold wax anyway. Your car is white? Wax won't make it look "cloudy" enough to worry about it. Just put wax on it and decide if you think it looks cloudy. I would bet you couldn't tell. If you want to follow the paint shop's advice, then you'd be looking to ceramic coat the paint first. Then wax on top of that (although the ceramic coat purists would say that you don't need to wax on top of ceramic - I'm not in their camp). I am of the opinion that ceramic coat should only get put on top of paint that has recently been properly corrected by an expert, or thereafter as maintenance. But wax can be put on anything and keeps the nasties away from the paint and can either be removed easily enough, or comes off on its own over time - unlike the ceramic, which you can have a hard time knowing what condition it is in. Um, what? Fuel stain? On the rear bumper? Please explain.

I liked them too, but somehow they were not quite as good as the preceding RS3, and I vastly prefer the Yoko AD09s. Quieter, longer lived, more progressive, damn near as sticky. And they don't howl like the 'Kooks do when they're mostly worn.

Your Jedi mind tricks won't work on me, old man.

Hmm. Prefer blower on that one. Preaching to the choir. But without the TT. Ima think NA V12 trumpet noises would keep me happy. But seriously, no matter how much I try to convince others to be bold and do the above swaps, I'm not too likely to do it on my daily! I'm not insane.

I don't like the sound of that. No. I mean I actually don't like the way that they sound!

Just as long as it's not those putridly disappointing RE003s.

This. All of this. I am turning >$300 into small particles inside 20k km, because I like to be able to roll around any 90° street corner at the speed limit. Would my car be more fun with cheaper tyres? Possibly. When I swapped out the bald AD09s for new ones, the change in the car was massive. The obvious one was being able to put the power down instead of lighting up into silly wheelspin. But the corollary of that was that the lateral traction went from being fun to fast. It was more fun when it was loose. But the corollary to the corollary is that if I need to dodge a child in the road or emergency brake to avoid the arsehat who has just tipped a GWM on its side in front of me, then I've got a much better chance of that manoeuvre coming off without unintended "fun" meaning that I hit something else, or the original target.

With Tyroola, they're probably 10 years old. It's already pretty clear that they've given the job of copywriting their adverts to an artificial stupidity (which could be a Year 9 dropout, or someone recently arrived to Oz with almost no English).

Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.

I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.

For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.

Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!

Yes - at ~2500-2700 rpm (ie, about 100-110) it was barking a bit. But I've heard that before. Makes me wonder if I haven't captured the flapper open in the past, but with the circlip still in place it rectified itself. More than once.

Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up top. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.

For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!

Put a piece of tape on it. If it's that gone, you would be seeing it on the balancer. It would look rooted. Not in this universe.

You do you. But I always resist changing things that don't matter, in favour of spending and doing on the things that do matter.

FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.

yes