Jump to content
SAU Community

GTSBoy

Admin
  • Posts

    18,985
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    310
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by GTSBoy

  1. Yes - at ~2500-2700 rpm (ie, about 100-110) it was barking a bit. But I've heard that before. Makes me wonder if I haven't captured the flapper open in the past, but with the circlip still in place it rectified itself. More than once.
  2. Early last week, I became concerned that the car was feeling....slow. Most of my driving is commuting to/from work and there are few opportunities to get up it and convincingly make boost/power. It drives in vacuum almost all the time. But when you do occasionally get an opportunity, and.... it takes a little longer to start making power, and then there's not as much as you'd expect, and then you run out of road anyway and have to bottle out - it can be hard to be convinced that there's something wrong. But by the end of the week I was pretty convinced. Made an effort to get a decent test run. Took bloody forever to come up on boost and when it did it would only make about 50 kPa of pressure. There was no black smoke, no noise of a boost or exhaust leak, no evidence anywhere of an intercooler hose clamp being sloppy enough to let air escape. So.... not that sort of problem. Brainstorming led to thinking that the boost controller's solenoid might have failed in some way. No active boost control would just give wastegate pressure, which I was more or less getting, and the laggy behaviour could just be "normal" shitty boost response from an uncontrolled highflow. But a little extra 3rd party brainstorming led to the thought that the actuator circlip might have jumped off leaving me with a bluetooth wastegate. So, on Friday, off comes the stock heatshield (which is an annoying enough job on its own) to reveal - yup. WG is wide open. And.... it won't come back. It is jammed in the dump. Put the rod back on with a new circlip and tried driving it to get it hot in the hope that the capture was from thermal effects having been blown into the dump when hot and since cooled. Nope. Won't move, even with screwdriver mediated force when hot. Ran out of time to play. Came back to it yesterday. Unbolted the dump. Was lying under it with the dump jammed up against my guts undoing the bottom 2 bolts. Got them most of the way out and gave the dump a serious heave. It didn't noticeably move, but there was a satisfying "plink" noise from up top. Shuffle out and sure enough, gate is now closed. Nevermind that there was still the better part of an hour after that required to put it all back together. f**ken cars.
  3. For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
  4. Put a piece of tape on it. If it's that gone, you would be seeing it on the balancer. It would look rooted. Not in this universe.
  5. You do you. But I always resist changing things that don't matter, in favour of spending and doing on the things that do matter.
  6. FYP. Sadly. Even bolt cutters wouldn't take 2 sec. But in the days of 18v angle grinders, nothing is safe.
  7. No it's fine. Heat sleeve is a thing. With oil running through it it is unlikely. Engine off heat soak can be a thing though. There is no way that you have a leak through the hose. That has pressure behind it and any small hole will turn into a large one in very short order. It is so much more likely to be leaking from the connection.
  8. Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
  9. All RB push clutches are interchangeable. AFAIK, the 4cyl ones are not. Different flywheels. The RB small box is not identical to the 4cyl boxes. Just very similar.
  10. Is actually easier than you might think. Assuming you have a spot, youfab up the branch, then just hang a longer than you can fit length of pipe down from there, and chop bits off piece by piece and decde which length was the quietest/nicest, then just put that length up in the place where it will fit. Clever folk can actually make like a trombone slide type arrangement so you can just play it like an instrument to find the best length.
  11. 200 cell cat will probably help. Do you have room to tee off a Helmholtz resonator anywhere along the exhaust? These can do wonders for drones, with a little experimentation with regards to length.
  12. Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
  13. Umm.... He attached it to his 2021 update post. Don't need the link. It is stored on the forum.
  14. Are you suggesting that the expert fabricator's work is not as good as Sinco's? Oh, eeby deeby for glup shitto! Eeby deeby for glup shitto for one thousand years!
  15. In the case of repeated flushes, you wouldn't bother sealing it if it's going to be removed again shortly afterward. Any little leak is not going to be a problem. You just seal it up the last time. I'd wait at least several hours, preferably a day, before loading any joint sealed with thread compound. It is an anaerobic sealant, meaning it should go off straight after being locked up between threads. But I find it is still wet long after use. Just give it some time to firm up before pressurising it.
  16. Um, no. I said not to use thread tape. You should have read the remainder as the instruction as to what you should use. My bad for not being clear enough.
  17. You have found the problem. The wire from the switch to the HB is shorted to earth. Now you have to physically find it and replace it. It won't be the switch, although following the steps above (and yes, where you ask, that is the light switch on the RHS of the binnacle) will rule it out for sure. Or not, if perhaps the switch has melted. But there's no route to earth inside the switch, so I can't see how it would.
  18. Have you looked at the workshop manual?
  19. Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
  20. Never use thread tape on such things. Teflon thread compound, in a tube. Loctite, and all the usual other suspect brands have thread sealant.
  21. I think throttle cables are one of those things that you can stick together out of parts if you need to. Just buy one and try it. If it doesn't work, sell it on.
×
×
  • Create New...