GTSBoy

You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.

Hose's can't possibly stay connected from a non-rotating frame of reference that is not on the axle axis. Even if you put some slip joints into the stationary end of it, it would be 3s before it bound up and twisted itself into a pretzel.

Yes.

It possibly could. But the problem he has is that the existing paperwork for the car says it's Mines.

What a f**king weener. I have worked in Gary, IN. At the time there were more gun deaths each night there than almost anywhere else in the world. Still not a reason to be afraid. 95% of people from your part of the world only have 3 teeth left from when you were addicted to meth, and now you're perpetually wrecked by Fentanyl. The only saving grace is that most of you didn't vote for Trumpler. Speaking of which, I'm off to the oval office right now. Got to relieve my bowels.

f**k me dead.

But there's the archetype for the name plate! Here's my view on that stupid TÜV ruleset. Buy a brand name aftermarket piece of equipment. In this case, the Mines front pipe we're talking about. Get it TÜV certified on the car. Damage the underside of it, say on a speed bump. Cut out the damaged section, replace with fresh metal. (For the sake of the argument only), continue doing that to the whole pipe until it is all gone, replaced with new metal. Is this grandfather's axe still the same front pipe? The design hasn't changed (much). The pipe walls are in the same places. The flanges are in the same places. It is functionally identical. How does this differ from a pipe that is ever so slightly different in fabrication (ie the number of welds in it, a few mm here and there in terms of where the pipes run, are joined, etc)? Anyone with 0.5% of a brain can see that there is absolutely no way that the performance (power, environmental aspects, noise, etc etc) of it can be any different than the genuine Mines pipe. Maybe even Mines made 2 versions of this design, with the same differences. How would anyone (say a TÜV inspector) ever be able to differentiate between them? And yet, they are so bloody anally retentive about this stuff. Mad. How upset would they be if you had the wrong spring washers on the flanges?

^This. If you have to do injectors, and you have to buy bigger ones, get the smallest Bosch EV14 based injectors of the correct length that you can. This will be about 500-525cc most likely. The stock ECU (with Nistune) will be fine to run those. Then, use a Nistune. Tune it yourself. If all that you are doing is changing injector size, then you literally only have to change one number to do it, and then maybe some fine tuning of that number. You will not need to touch the fuel or ignition maps at all.

So, weld a plate with the Mines logo laser cut into it, onto it. Instant Mines pipes, whether they were or weren't originally.

I don't know if the blocks are "the same". They will be very very similar. Obviously, either the bore or the stroke is going to be bigger on the 20. If the bore is bigger, then the 18 head is unlikely to fit properly. If the bore is the same, then you can almost certainly fit the CA18 head, but there migth be a few fun things you have to do to make water galleries (or other things) line up properly. Or... it could just be real easy. Is it worth the effort? Almost certainly not. You can make nearly as much power on a 2 valv ehead as you can on a 4 valve. There's not any "magic" in a 4 valve head.

Yes.

I would think that rather than attempting to perform an engine swap, with all the difficulties associated with doing so in a country where the raw materials required are harder to get hold of, I would just build the CA20 for boost, find an EFI manifold for it and either add a turbo or a supercharger. Or both. You replace one set of difficulties with a different set, but I know which would be more fun.

Well, a proper aftermarket ECU** SHOULD be set up to run the purge solenoid, same as the factory ECU would, so that the tank breather system continues to operate the way it is supposed to. I have no knowledge of whether the PFC (which is what I assume you mean when you say Apexi) has an output (and internal logic) to run the purge solenoid. If it does not, then given the product design intent for the PFC, which is to be a plug in replacement for the stock ECU, I would consider that a massive failing on Apexi's behalf and would be another reason to think that they were a half-arsed solution to the problem if programmable management on RBs. I would suggest that since Nistune came to market (which is a LOOOOONG time ago now) there has been no valid argument for choosing a PFC, especially if the PFC can't do things like this. **ie, Haltach, Link, Motec, etc

That is porn and I wish I could do it easily on my streeter.

BOV = Blow Off Valve. Better referred to as compressor bypass valve on stock RBs.

This is the stuff me make ourselves. But this seems like a cracked idea.

I would suggest equally difficult to find, perhaps edging to the SR. Turkey has almost exclusively Euro market cars, some Korean, few Japanese other than pedestrian shite. I guess they're probably losing the fight against Chinese shit like we are now too. I would vote for a BMW V8, found in a 540i in a wrecking yard somewhere in Deutschland (or possibly Albania).

G for Grey. I understand.

That's the bottom half of something I saw in a Sasha Grey video once.

Gasless MIG is not exactly suited to what I would call "delicate" or "attractive" welding. So I would rule it out for sheet metal rust repair type stuff, unless you're only doing it in hidden places. I'm thinking about getting myself a gasless MIG for "hack together" type work. Noting that my welding experience is very very low, and quite a long time ago. So I'm also looking for "simple", but I'm not expecting "excellent". I'm not even sure that proper MIG is the best for sheet metal work. I get the feeling that the degree of control and the minimisation of heat input that you get from TIG is probably what you really want. And then you have to get good at doing it before the welds won't look like a monkey flinging a handful of shit anyway. You're probably SOL for an easy and cheap way to get from where you are to where you want to be. Much like myself.

Fire up the 3D printer and break out the silver paint.

Yes, it will fit, with the right engine mounts, plus a complete wiring loom. The CA is carby fed, yes? Then you need to add a complete EFI pump system (probably a whole tank) to get that to go. I don't know the 4 cyl stuff that well, but I'd be reasonably sure you'd need an SR gearbox, which will definitely need a clutch, and probably lead to needing tailshaft mods (although maybe you'll get lucky there). There will be more. Not from me. Just on the list.

ISO 61508/511 et al would tell you that that is a good way to fail a Functional Safety Assessment, V&V and Ausit. All of them. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. Go back and do it again.

I used to love stock take. I used to take f**k of a lot of stock. /Rodney Rude.

When it was a turbo, or now that it is a V8? Engineering for turbo mods in Victoria would a breeze no? As in, you're not allowed to do anything, so there's nothing to engineer?