GTSBoy

Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.

That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.

That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.

It's (the TPS) buzzing? Or something else is buzzing in response? Remove the IACV from the plenum. Block the hole into the plenum with your hand. Get someone to start the car. Let some air is. Do the revs flare up? This is checking that the path into the plenum is clean. After that, is the air hose leading to the IACV fuly clear? After that, either you didn't clean it thoroughly enough to allow the valve to move, or it is broken.

I think, given the other pictures of same on the FPG site, that that is their tame R32 tank with a hole cut in the side used for dev purposes, and the rust is a non-consequential surface finish.

Yes, well, the problem being the plastic tank. The RWD R32s obviously have a similar tank, but in steel, viz and you can see a nice sheetmetal swirl pot baffle. I would imagine that that is somewhat harder to do on a plastic tank.

Probably the cam.

C'mon! At least come kicking and screaming into the 2000s. BA XR8 bulge.

There's still hope!

I open the bonnet of a French people mover and see a VQ - it's no longer Japanese! VR is short for VQJr

Nah. It's a Renault. The VQ is more French than Japanese.

This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?

The only Neo rods that were any different to any other RB25 rods were the DET ones, and they were the same as RB26. Here is a Neo DET rod. O5U part number visible. Here is a post in a thread here on SAU with evidence from someone who has done this before. There are photos in the thread of normal RB25 rods.

Are you talking about the oil squirters? There is only one place for them to go. Yes, you have to drill the holes. Yes you have to obtain the correct oil squirters (I presume there is some sort of aftermarket option available, because original turbo ones are going to be a diminishing resource).

Same same. DE block has no oil squirters though. You either live without them, or go to the effort of adding them. The type of pain is up to you.

You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.

Hose's can't possibly stay connected from a non-rotating frame of reference that is not on the axle axis. Even if you put some slip joints into the stationary end of it, it would be 3s before it bound up and twisted itself into a pretzel.

Yes.

It possibly could. But the problem he has is that the existing paperwork for the car says it's Mines.

What a f**king weener. I have worked in Gary, IN. At the time there were more gun deaths each night there than almost anywhere else in the world. Still not a reason to be afraid. 95% of people from your part of the world only have 3 teeth left from when you were addicted to meth, and now you're perpetually wrecked by Fentanyl. The only saving grace is that most of you didn't vote for Trumpler. Speaking of which, I'm off to the oval office right now. Got to relieve my bowels.

f**k me dead.

But there's the archetype for the name plate! Here's my view on that stupid TÜV ruleset. Buy a brand name aftermarket piece of equipment. In this case, the Mines front pipe we're talking about. Get it TÜV certified on the car. Damage the underside of it, say on a speed bump. Cut out the damaged section, replace with fresh metal. (For the sake of the argument only), continue doing that to the whole pipe until it is all gone, replaced with new metal. Is this grandfather's axe still the same front pipe? The design hasn't changed (much). The pipe walls are in the same places. The flanges are in the same places. It is functionally identical. How does this differ from a pipe that is ever so slightly different in fabrication (ie the number of welds in it, a few mm here and there in terms of where the pipes run, are joined, etc)? Anyone with 0.5% of a brain can see that there is absolutely no way that the performance (power, environmental aspects, noise, etc etc) of it can be any different than the genuine Mines pipe. Maybe even Mines made 2 versions of this design, with the same differences. How would anyone (say a TÜV inspector) ever be able to differentiate between them? And yet, they are so bloody anally retentive about this stuff. Mad. How upset would they be if you had the wrong spring washers on the flanges?

^This. If you have to do injectors, and you have to buy bigger ones, get the smallest Bosch EV14 based injectors of the correct length that you can. This will be about 500-525cc most likely. The stock ECU (with Nistune) will be fine to run those. Then, use a Nistune. Tune it yourself. If all that you are doing is changing injector size, then you literally only have to change one number to do it, and then maybe some fine tuning of that number. You will not need to touch the fuel or ignition maps at all.

So, weld a plate with the Mines logo laser cut into it, onto it. Instant Mines pipes, whether they were or weren't originally.

I don't know if the blocks are "the same". They will be very very similar. Obviously, either the bore or the stroke is going to be bigger on the 20. If the bore is bigger, then the 18 head is unlikely to fit properly. If the bore is the same, then you can almost certainly fit the CA18 head, but there migth be a few fun things you have to do to make water galleries (or other things) line up properly. Or... it could just be real easy. Is it worth the effort? Almost certainly not. You can make nearly as much power on a 2 valv ehead as you can on a 4 valve. There's not any "magic" in a 4 valve head.