GTSBoy

What do you mean by "seals"? Internal hydraulic seals (ie, is it leaking PS fluid?) or the rack boots that close the rack onto the tie-rods? Because the former is a rebuild, and the latter is trivial that you or any nearby mechanic could do. Dunno about the cowl. Just buy what you think is required and get anything else you find/break afterwards. Wing? Dunno. Don't like R33s enough to pay attention to them. Mirror glass is just glass (on the surface that you want to polish). Go for it.

440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.

thumbsup

Brother-in-law's workshop. And I'll be doing. Family doesn't get priority over long running customer jobs. It wouldn't normally take so long to get to a task of mine, but there was a series of unfortunate events involving the dyno (blowing it up) that caused a serious backlog in the normal workload, that has toaken literally forever to get out from underneath. I can't do, or more to the point, choose not to do, jobs at home that require tools I don't have or would leave me without my daily if something goes wrong that thwarts me. Gearbox out on the floor with chassis stands is not palatable when I can use a hoist at the shop. But I've only had the box for a few weeks. It's the injectors and AFM that have been waiting on access to the dyno.

Big brain energy.

Oh, you know I want to. I've been wanting a Hartley 1GZ for long enough that it's causing me to rock in the corner like kid on far end of the spectrum. I'll have to double down on the retirement strategy (which extends only to X lotto tickets at this point).

All of that can be photoshopped. Drop skid vid.

A broken Skyline?

Just ask Import Monster or Streeter or equivalent to keep an eye out for you?

Shut up you. All I'm hearing these days is "GTSBoy needs to put in a V8 with paddle shifted transmisision" and I don't like feeling pressured to spend money to make my car fun. I want to be able to grumble about how slow it is, largely because I haven't spent any money to make it fast!

I was immediately reminded that your location is QLD. Sounds like a perfect SEQ business idea.

I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.

Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.

Yeah, the thread is only nearly 20 years old.

This. They would need some tricky maneouvering to keep the income out of the country (the US). Which isn't helpful if that's where you want the income to end up.

I'd suspect it's an M10x1.0 before I'd think it's an M11. Just go down to the bolt shop and buy a few different sizes?

Oh. I did misunderstand.

No, I didn't misunderstand. I showed that tee because that is the threaded hole that you need a banjo bolt to go into yes? Two of them, one either side of the tee. The through hole in the tee is the 12x1.25 into the block.

This is the tee No specs on the page I grabbed it from, out of stock there anyway. But it kinda looks like a 1mm pitch. Would not think it's going to be 0.75mm pitch.

See above.

OK, I'm with you now. The outlet of the tee that is banjo'd into the block. Dunno what it is, will have a scratch around. The M11 question is.....messy. The minor diameter of an M11x1.0 male thread is 9.917mm. This is smaller than the minor diameter of a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 10.08mm). The M11 major is 11mm. That's smaller than the major on a 7/16"-24 UNS (which is 0.4375" or 11.1mm) so an M11x1 bolt should pass on the major side. The pitch of a -24 thread is 1.058mm, which is really close to the M11x1, so it should go in at least several turns. I would expect M11x1 to be loose in a 7/16"-24 UNS, at least until enough thread are engaged to make it stop screwing in, if that can happen. Probably wouldn't happen on such a short bolt as you're looking at on the oil tee. Keep in mind that 7/16"-24 is NOT a standard/typical 7/16" thread. Standard is 20. That's the UNF or fine thread. -24 is really fine. I imagine that Garrett chose -24 for the turbo housing oil inlet to get the number of threads engaged up. I would not expect Nissan to have an imperial (UNF, etc) thread on that tee. I would expect it to be metric (if it is a bolt thread) or BSP (actually the Japanese equivalent of BSP) if it is a pipe thread. Given that it's a banjo, it's going to be a bolt thread. If it looks like an 11mm will go in there, then 11mm seems likely. It is very possible that some clown has stuffed that thread by trying to jam some imperial "near equivalent" into it, perhaps with those hoses of yours. Got verniers? Measure up the threads on the hoses.

OK. So, you will find what you want in this thread. The very post linked.

I'm not sure I follow you. The underlined thread specification is correct. That is exactly the thread called out on the Garrett "flange diagram" of the GT2860R - 0.4376IN-24 - where 0.4376" is close enough to 0.4375" which is 7/16". It is shown as an inverted flare connection. A banjo bolt to go into that would want to be that thread size, and I guess not bother about the flare. Or....are you not talking about on the turbo? Are you talking about the other end of the hard pipe? The supply end?

We're not talking about one of those little girl LS's like yours. We're talking the big boy. LS7.

I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.