GTSBoy

Let them know.

Never use thread tape on such things. Teflon thread compound, in a tube. Loctite, and all the usual other suspect brands have thread sealant.

I think throttle cables are one of those things that you can stick together out of parts if you need to. Just buy one and try it. If it doesn't work, sell it on.

What are they. Some sort of knock-off Sumitomo copy? Or originals "reconditioned"? Do they come with pins and springs and anti-rattle/squeal plates, or are you going to have to spend almost as much again getting those too? I also have no idea if the hoses on the 34NA will suit those, and if they don't, what hoses you would need to buy, or perhaps get made, to make it work.

More likely you didn't bed the rings in correctly and have glazed the bores. Running with misfires on a fresh build is somewhat of a no-no. Surely no-one "smoke tests" the combustion chamber? That's what a leakdown test is for. Smoke testing is, um, a bit of a wank at best, and only really useful for external pipework.

Well, obviously that kit is not a relocation kit or anything other than just the original isolators and the like. I would suggest that it should be a matter of just bending up some flat bar to build a mount over the top of some other diff, with the flat bar held to the back of the diff by the rear hat bolts. A little welding, a little thinking about how to secure the front of this structure, maybe some different hoses in case you can't get it in just the right place.

Pay diff/trans workshop to do this. Nope. Z32 turbo ran R230 with 6 bolt GTR style axles. All other Z32 were R200. Basically same same as other R32 stuff. All were a viscous waste of space.

Ask a powder coater? Or ask 31GUN on performanceforums, who is Barrel Bros.

Not mad. Just disappointed.

You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.

Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.

I dunno. I just go off what I know works. On RB20, the idle switch meant something to the ECU and the potentiometer was ignored. In Nistune, with the switch unplugged, you could bridge the terminals in the loom connector and see IDLE come on and off. Not so by moving the pot. The R32 RB20 ECU and the 26 ECU both look like this. Sure there is the "throttle sensor" (pot) on pin 38, and also sure, the idle switch is also directly wired to the TCU, whereas the pot is only directly conected to the ECU. But I am sure that the throttle position from the pot is passed to the TCU across the data bus on pins 21, 22 & 31. Maybe the ECU likes to know throttle position, but it sure as hell doesn't use it to determine the idle condition. Meanwhile, on the later engines, like the 33 25DET and my Neo, you remove the TPS and move the pot to-from the 0.45V position, and IDLE comes and goes in Nistune. No throttle switch on the ECU diagram. Just the pot.

Not in any way a logical conclusion. Also, looking at those logs, I struggle to see how that much oil pressure can go away that fast unless you are sucking air into the pickup. Meanwhile the ECU voltage is chucking a huge wobbly which seems to be tied to the throttle position. 100% throttle results in decreasing voltage. It's a mess.

Put a hand on an injector and see if that's what the buzzing is. You might be triggering the injectors by moving off idle command.

Well, you've already got one of them, so you only need to add one more. C'mon, you know you want to. Deep down your inner masochist is just aching to punish your bank account a bit more. Just a bit more.

I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.

Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.

Messing with narrowband switchovers is a terrible bandaid. I don't want to think about it. You are a cam "upgrader" only in concept. As you said, your new cam is actually smaller, so it's technically a downgrade. OK, likely a very small downgrade, but nevertheless. But the big thing that will be the most likely suspect is the change of the advance angle. That change could be equivalent to a substantial decrease in cam lobe duration. I haven't gone to the effort of trying to think about what your change would actually cause. But until someone (you, me (unlikely), Matt, someone else) does so and comes to a conclusion about the effect, it remains a possibility that that is the change that is causing what you're seeing.

Yeah, but the narrowband is truly narrowband. So you take it out of the linear zone and it is effectively nonsense. And that linear zone is so literally narrow, that nonsense is not very far away. Unless they are flicking back and forth across the stoich point, for real, under actual control, they can't be trusted for anything except entertainment value.

That's the thing. Especially at idle, changing the cam angle by that much could be spewing more fuel out the exhaust courtesy of everything happening that bit later. More fuel also means more air (if the fuel didn't burn, then neither did the O2) and so the O2 sensors can start to tell interesting but misleading stories. And the specifics of what is happening could easily be affected by everything else you changed as well. And it could be dynamic, where a few revs more or less could somewhat change how the engine is breathing.

That's nasty! I think there is perhaps an inherent problem is using elastomers in such environments. The whole thing can and will get quite hot, and elastomers are not famous for their temperature resistance. On top of that, if the components are cast rubber or urethane and so on, there might be QA/QC problems with bubbles or voids in the material that could critically change their performance. They might just tear apart after being squished (presuming that any elastomers are used in compression rather than tension, I'm thinking that you squeeze one with a void in it and it tears the wall of the void to the outer edge of block, then the next time it extends or otherwise twists, it just gives up). This is all purely hypothetical, but it makes me wonder if the things that they have put into it to make it nice to use/live with are perhaps going to cause occasional failures like this. I wouldn't be getting up in arms over it, unless there are many repeats. I have personally ruined an Xtreme clutch - just an HD thing. I can't remember if it was still behind the 20 or was after the 25 went in. But it inverted some of the retaining spring/clip things around the outside. No-one could explain it. It wasn't thrashed, there wasn't heaps of torque being put through it, and there were no obvious problems other than the above. They were quite concerned by the event so they replaced it even though it was a few years old, which was very nice of them. As far as I am concerned, these things happen with clutches.

It's (the TPS) buzzing? Or something else is buzzing in response? Remove the IACV from the plenum. Block the hole into the plenum with your hand. Get someone to start the car. Let some air is. Do the revs flare up? This is checking that the path into the plenum is clean. After that, is the air hose leading to the IACV fuly clear? After that, either you didn't clean it thoroughly enough to allow the valve to move, or it is broken.

I think, given the other pictures of same on the FPG site, that that is their tame R32 tank with a hole cut in the side used for dev purposes, and the rust is a non-consequential surface finish.

Yes, well, the problem being the plastic tank. The RWD R32s obviously have a similar tank, but in steel, viz and you can see a nice sheetmetal swirl pot baffle. I would imagine that that is somewhat harder to do on a plastic tank.

Probably the cam.