GTSBoy

I swear at my GKTech ones every time I have to take them apart and replace a spherical. But I wouldn't swap them for anything else. They absolutely slay every other option, at least in terms of how they actually work. You sure you don't want to live with bearings? I mean, they don't have "ball bearings". They are rod ends and sphericals throughout. Tough as nuts, even though I have found more than one way to wear them out.

Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.

f**k. I charge that per hour.

Can we see a scan of the original quote? The problem with engineers (and by this, I mean, all engineers across all engineering industries) is that there are "engineers" and there are "engineers" (you'll have to imagine the two different vocal emphases on those two versions of the same word. Engineering is a mindset - your farm kid who spent his life rebuilding the tractor will likely make a good engineer. The farm kid who spent his life taking photos of butterflies.. perhaps not. But on top of that mindset, the modern engineer has to learn how to write so that there is absolutely no way of being misunderstood. Proposals/budget estimates/quotations are one place where this is absolutely vital. You have to delineate your scope of supply with extremely hard boundaries, and anywhere where there is any possibility of not being able to have such a hard boundary, you need to write language that will cover you from scope creep, cost overruns, the inevitable interference of the client or their "engineer", etc etc. Now, if your clients are the BHPs and the Rio Tintos of the world, and similar, then you get good at this. If you are an automotive engineer, pitching work to the great unwashed masses, your skills in this area might not be well developed, because you're only dealing with knuckle draggers trying to get a big block legal in a Torana. And when I say "might not"....I'd suggest there's a better than even chance that any such skills might be completely absent. So, we might be able to look at your quote and see what the opportunities are for rebuttal.

Oh, yes. If you connected it to the manifold your first drive would be very eventful. Very shit. Very interesting. Perhaps take a video if you feel the need to see. Terminating the breather at the top of the bellhousing is normal/stock. Some gearbox lubes (hello Redline Shockproof) like to foam up a bit and require the breather to be extended up higher, so you don't get spots of smurf jizz staining the floor under your car. Mine is thus right up behind the head. Make sure you fit a u-bend at the top so it points back downward so that dirt and schmutz has a harder time getting into it.

Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.

You wash your mouth out. He knows what he's got!

Absolutely this. Yes, except not vacuum hose. Something oil/fuel safe is a better idea.

No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.

One of those Proton utes then. with an Evo motor in it. Gowahn!

The usual gamble is the usual gamble. Hawkins bought one last year. Very nice, found in Japan via the usual mates. Blew it up just driving it around. It's just roulette.

I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.

But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.

Replace your battery.

And....if that could be true for all R34 GTTs, then it might be good. But in reality it is not really any better than my standard instruction to "go out and have a look at it yourself, and wave a tape measure around" etc etc, because as soon as you have any adjustable arms, or coilovers with smaller diameter springs, or tyres that have any bulge that goes out further than the rim, etc etc, then the simple version of the information is still potentially misleading. Plus, nothing in this is static. Everything is moving. At the rear the wheels swing inward at the top as they go up, so the clearances on the inside change as the suspension is compressed. At the front it's even worse. And then you have the difference in absolute wheel position in the arch can move around more, or less, depending on how compliant the bushes are. If, like me, you have sphericals on the front caster rods (and on the FUCAs also, but these are probably less dominant when it comes to wheel position), then your wheel will swing forward/backward less under loads than some others, but as well as up/down, as well as steering angle. You end up having the simple numbers with 17 caveats/footnotes for each.

Isn't this what everyone immediately sees in their mind's eye when someone gives them a total width number and an offset?

It won't be this - not while it's driving, anyway.

They're supposed to not be compatible.

On R32s etc the variable resistor of the TPS is pretty much only for the auto trans CU. The switch is the idle position. Yes, later ones want to see pretty close to 0.45V to declare idle position.

What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.

Car should sit at 12.2 or more, maybe 12.6 or 12.7 when fully charged and happy. If there is a decent enough parasitic load then it will certainly go lower than 12.2 with time. You can't beat physics.

Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.

Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.

Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.

Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.