GTSBoy

Yeah, I've been watching him since the first 4 posts all arrived.

C-tek here. MXS 5 IIRC. It's the tits.

With an electronic boost controller, there are settings available to limit overboost.

Let's face it. 90s turbo 6 with 80s tech in it is not going to be the thing that runs as clean as a whistle.

No. See below. No. In the specific case of Enthusiast, the wording in the PDS says, explicitly, " We will not pay any claim on a Vehicle with any Modifications not agreed by us and not listed in the Schedule. This includes any Modifications or the fitting of a device that contravenes the requirements of the Australian Design Rules [ADRs] or where allowed, the Australian Vehicle Standards Rules [AVSR]." The 2nd paragraph needs to be read in a different tone of voice from the 1st. The two concepts are connected, but they are two different concepts. The 1st says your mods must be listed and agreed with us. The 2nd effectively says "we won't pay if any mods are not legal". The way that it has been written in more general insurances for a long time has been that if the mod contributes to the accident then you're shit out of luck, but if the mod didn't contribute, then you'll probably get away with it. With "probably" being a very flexible term, and being an insurance company, better left untested than hoped on!

Overboosting is more likely a function of whatever boost controller you are using than the actuator. "Overboosting" is a feature of cheap boost tee type control. If you don't want to see peaks of overboost, you have to set it to not produce them. And that then means you don't run as much boost as you might like elsewhere. That's just life. Electronic boost controllers can generally be set to do a much better job of managing the peak boost.

You should not be able to see much smoke behind you if the mixtures are good - for ~13-14 psi anyway. It's not like you need to be running hell rich for only that much boost/load. Your tune might be a tad too rich. The tuner might have done that because they like to run a lot of timing. It's impossible to know what's going on from here. It won't be the actuator. It won't be the MAP sensor. Regardless of if by "MAP sensor" you mean either the Neo ECU's boost sensor (which is literally only that, a boost sensor so that the ECU knows a) that it's achieving boost, and b) that it is not overboosting) or you mean the dash gauge's MAP sensor (because it can't have any effect at all), or you mean the boost controller's MAP sensor (because it is very unlikely that it is running in closed loop, and so it is effectively just used to know when the pressure goes positive and so you can see the boost on the display, for the most part).

See, I still thought it was 10 posts, and she was at 7 so I couldn't be bothered going in and fixing it when the fix was to simply post 3 more times. 8 more times....perhaps I should have.

Nah, for the Neo. The Neo met the then-current Japanese LEV numbers, which were only a small step change better than what the vanilla RBs were doing. And.... I strongly suspect that the only Neo RBs that actually met the LEV rules were the NA ones. It seems hella unlikely that any late 90s turbo engine could meet the CO limits. NOx and fuel consumption maybe - the turbos were lower CR so stood a chance of being OKish on NOx, and if the testing regime didn't require running at enough load to make a lot of boost, then the specific fuel consumption could have been OK. But really, as soon as any significant boost was on board the mixtures get quite rich, CO inevitably has to go up, and fuel consumption goes to hell. The amount of ECU required to meet Euro4 was substantially higher than what was in those things too. Lots of modelling. It's probably mainly the reason why there were no real turbo offerings from Nissan, even in the Skylines, in the 2000s, because they just couldn't make them meet the standards. So we got that pox-ridden French V6 instead. Maybe, but there's no that many pineapples in the UK, so I don't think they get to even know what burnt E85 smells like. And I'd be pretty sure that you'd have to jump through even more hops to get a certification of some sort that was limited to a specific fuel.

It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.

And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.

No, but they will be WAAAAAAY too high. You will never get your ticket.

6 months since you bought it. 30 years since it was built! You have to reach 10 posts first. One of our anti-spam anti-dickhead workarounds.

You just say that the premium increase seems particularly excessive (no pun intended) and that the value decrease seems unwarranted. You say that it's not 2005 any more, and that these days Skylines are generally owned and insured only by those that have demonstrated an ability to keep them in one piece across decades, and are therefore not the horrible risk that used to be assumed. etc.

It's the adhesive holding the ceramic wheel to the shaft the fails on 90% of them.

It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!

Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.

10 psi. 11-11.5 at the extreme max. Perfectly safe, just smoky, if not retuned.

Am guessing the "steering wheel shroud/cover" you're after is actually the steering column shroud?

Shannons absolutely require Skylines to be garaged. And I guess anything else that they feel has a higher theft interest level than less .... wantable? .... things like Falcons and Libertys.

This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.

I understand your sarcastic exasperation. But to be fair - the baffles do indeed fit OEM cam covers. They did omit to say that you need to do a bunch of stuff. But they do fit them.

Priced to move, at only $67k?

Not far. If all you want to do is know that they will reciprocate and move oil around a tiny bit, then a metre or so is all you need. Half metre fore and aft is enough.

That's the spirit!