GTSBoy
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Posts posted by GTSBoy
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15 minutes ago, PranK said:
But would the wear continue to occur when the oil is changed? Surely it would stop wearing, ie the damage was done? If thats the case, could this suggest maybe that the lead count is not wear?
What has an oil change got to do with whether wear is occurring or not? Wear may be facilitated by oil having been left in too long and broken down - but it is far more likely to be a mechanical issue (ie, pressure).
The thing with the tested oil being only 5000kms old makes it perhaps equally likely to be lead from bearings or lead from the additive.
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40 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:
the "EPS control unit" doesn't have any of that and only exposes a raw analog voltage for the EPS solenoid valve. It's ultimately mostly about speed sensitive steering but the non-HICAS unit also looks at the neutral switch/brake/clutch switch to adjust how it provides assist.
Yeah, alright, I take it back. I hadn't bothered to compare the terminal numbers - they're not the same. I was working on the presumption that it was the "small plug" half of the HICAS CU because it has the same plug as the small plug on the HICAS CU. And...the drawing says "Refer to Super HICAS system circuit diagram" which seemed to place it firmly in the world of HICAS, not non-HICAS.
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Yeah, that doesn't necessarily mean that it flows. If the exit side pipework is blocked somewhere (in the hose, in the nipple that it returns into the motor/plumbing, etc), but the supply side is not blocked, then when you crack the bleeder you will get flow from the open side. But when you close the bleeder - no flow. And.... therefore no heat.
You might have to work a little harder to prove it to yourself. When I bought my engine the entire IACV bleeder was choked with cooling system schmutz. I had to clean it and the pipework out before it would work.
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The markings on a balancer are on the outer. The outer is separated from the inner by the rubber. The outer and the inner can, and will, slip against each other as the balancer starts to fail.
Put a new balancer on it.
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4 hours ago, joshuaho96 said:
The R32 GTR manual actually has more than I give credit for talking about the non-HICAS cars:
Nah. I reckon that that is the HICAS CU. Just the large plug, PS specific and other I/O. I can't see that there'd be a need/want for the (non-HICAS) PS CU to be watching any of those inputs other than the speed sensor.
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Is there coolant flow to (through) the IACV?
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2 hours ago, D.phantom said:
Do you know where the EPS module will be located?
A is the HICAS CU. As far as I know, there are no other modules located at A in a car with HICAS, so it is fair to presume that F is the variable power steer module for non-HICAS cars. Same location, give or take. Makes sense - the wiring loom for the HICAS cars has the speed signal, power, solenoid drive, etc wires all present there - so why move the module and have to upend the wiring loom?
Having said the above though, it may be the case that F is further down in the rear guard - it's hard to tell. In which case it may be something else.
2 hours ago, D.phantom said:And also the diagnostic connect located under the dash?
Yes, it is the multi-pin plug next to the under dash fuse box. Top left corner. Can't miss it. Be very careful though - use insulated probes to poke around in there so you don't accidentally short 12v to ground or an ECU input etc etc.
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5 minutes ago, PranK said:
I'm reading that lead is likely from bearings. Can these be caught before it's too late or is it doomed already?
Well, yeah, there is a (very thin) layer of soft lead on the surface of bearing shells to provide that first "cushion" against physical contact. Just because it is wearing off doesn't actually mean that the engine is dying. Of course, it can mean that the engine is dying.
If the engine is making no noises and the oil pressure is (mostly, as in most of the time) fine, then it could just be suffering under particular conditions. That could be startup, or maybe at some point in the normal operation cycle - or maybe the Beemer engine suffers under long left hand bend (see, highway on ramp) and the pressure drops. You'd need to try to work out if any such thing is happening and then determine if you need a bigger oil pump, or an Accusump or something.
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47 minutes ago, djvoodoo said:
I thought about the speedo correctors, but heard some not so great things about the Jaycar unit.
It's not ideal, by any means, but I think many of the horror stories are because of people not understanding what it is, what it does, what their VSS that they need to modify looks like and whether the Jaycar unit is applicable.
In principle, it is relatively easy to build a device to take in an AC variable (peak) voltage variable frequency signal (which is what you get from most Nissan speed senders) and just spit out a constant (peak) voltage variable frequency AC signal at a different (modified) frequency.
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26 minutes ago, PranK said:
My mechanic did add some additive for stem seals in the last oil change which would be in this analysis. I'm not sure if that would affect anything.
Find out how much lead is in that additive. Lead is normally a no-no, but seeing as it is an "additive" they might be able to get away with relatively low levels in their product, that could then turn up at the ppm level in the bulk oil.
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Yeah, and how many of them are still lying around waiting to be used?
I think we're in a new era of Skyline modification, where you can't rely on parts from other models being available any more.
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A speedo corrector module has to be the simplest thing. Why anyone would consider any alternative is beyond me.
You could even knock one up yourself with an arduino in an afternoon.
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I have no idea what the power steering control module is on a non-HICAS car because I've never seen one. But it is a fair bet that is essentially the same thing as on any other Nissan of the period with variable PS. So, Maximas, that sort of thing.
It will pick up the ECU's speed signal off the "bus" (there's not really a bus - any consumers of the VSS are all just connected to that output on the ECU). The output should (most likely) be a PWM signal to give you an effective average voltage between the minimum and maximum values. You could possibly look at the HICAS part of the R32 manual to see what that range is likely to be (for non-HICAS, as it should be about the same).
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23 minutes ago, SLVRBAKSLPZ said:
From how the lights were acting after I diddle the stick make me lean towards a stalk problem
That would be a rarity.
You can emulate the function of the stalk just by bridging the appropriate pins in the connector. If you can make it function correctly by doing so, then the wiring etc is OK and it is the stalk.
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Are you sure you can use LEDs in the indicator lamps? On a car that old? It doesn't work on many old cars because the indicator relay can't cope with the wrong impedance out at the lamp positions and the LEDs will happily light up even with minimal current flowing through the indicator relay.
And when I say "indicator relay" I mean the flasher, not a relay relay.
Beyond that, I would say that you have caused yourself a wiring fault and that you would be well advised to work through the wiring diagram and the actual loom with a multimeter.
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Impressive power for a small rear housing. 👌
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If it's all just in paint, then....yes. Sort of. Depends on what you mean by "easily". Complete strip and powder coat? Easy. It's just you hand the wheels and a stack of coins to the wheel guy and they come back fixed.
Damage to the alloy? Not easy. Still doable. Same basic method. Wheels + money to the wheel guy.
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Duty sets the boost level.
The duty number != boost, it is just a number between 0% doing something and 100% doing something. More number = more boost.
Gain and p gain are used to help account for boost creep or drop off. The details vary from controller type to controller type (ie, the Profecs use similar terms but achieve their results slightly differently.) The manual should explain all that.
These controllers are dumb in that they do not control to a boost target. They are open loop. You need to adjust settings until it is doing what you want. If the performance of the motor, boost control system, elevation, weather, etc change, then the boost can and will come out to a different result on the same controller settings.
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49 minutes ago, Igotnothin said:
I've checked the wire
49 minutes ago, Igotnothin said:replace the wire harness
Not the same thing, in case you were confused. The "wire" he spoke of is the heated wire, which is the sensing element inside the AFM.
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1 hour ago, Duncan said:
unless you are going to do the full car
In which case it hardly matters either (and there's got to be no way that anyone would want to stick with the factory blue, because it is goddamn yawntastic).
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It can all be fixed, but if you've got multiple damage reports for chassis rails and floorpan and sills....I'd be expecting a $10k bill there. Alone.
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I understand that the R34 ECU can be sensitive to what is going on wrt the coilpacks/loom. You'd be well advised to put a Consult reader onto the diagnostic port and read the codes. The one(s) in the ECU will be the ones most likely to tell you what's going on. The TCS light will be a secondary effect.
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Hire a dyno in Canadia and tune over the 'net?
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44 minutes ago, Chris_Guthrie said:
drops to 34psi. Ideas on this?
Is correct. Manifold vacuum at idle is about the difference.
98 ER34 GTT idle races, if AAC is unplugged, then idles perfect
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
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That's perhaps not even correct in this instance though. If the OP were in fact to bin all that troublesome crap and convert to DBW, and then if the problem persisted, we would at least know that it was not caused by any of that troublesome crap and he could go looking for it in more likely places. AND... he would have a significant upgrade in niceness to go along with it!