GTSBoy
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Posts posted by GTSBoy
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You can shim viscous diffs. Apparently it helps. I'm not entirely sure why, because viscous centres only really do any slip limiting by allowing slip to actually start - they work by the fluid inside resisting the relative motion between the sides. I wouldn't have thought they'd be adjustable by the amount of pre-load applied by shims.
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So if your keeping the engine stock whats the point in the conversion? I cant really see having a little bit of extra torque been worth all the hassle not to mention the $. It would be easier to mod the 20 and have some decent power and still have it look standard. Just my 2 cents
Any money spent inside an RB20 is wasted money. Any modification made to an RB20 to make more power will only make it spend more time labouring with zero torque before it comes on boost followed by instant wheelspin because of the nothing to everything transition. It's not the power potential of the RB25 that makes the conversion worth doing. It's the off boost drivability. You'd even expect to use less fuel with a 25 in a 32.
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What state? In SA for example, little more than having the R33 brakes would be required to meet the law's wants and needs.
I'm doing this right now. How much it costs depends on how much you can do yourself, how much extra work you do (as in, timing belt, water pump, rear and/or front main seals, water hoses, etc etc etc, that are all easier to do with the engine on a stand but add a big bunch of $$ to the conversion cost). And whether you get an auto or manual engine (vs whatever you have right now) and whether you get an R33 motor or an R34 Neo (and therefore exactly how many loom plugs on the motor need to be rewired to make the conversion look and work nice), and whether you take the oportunity to delete all the HICAS shit from the car, including getting a non-HICAS rear subframe because HICAS lock bars are not actually legal (as they constitute a modification of the steering system and would need to be engineered at the minimum), and whether you need simple little things like new gearbox mounts. You need at least the front section of tailshaft to suit the 25 gearbox, and I think it has to be cut'n'shut and balanced. You need someone to sort out a cable speedo drive conversion. You should consider a 4.11 diff instead of the 4.3 which is a tad short for an RB25 in a lighter car like a 32.
RB25 and gearbox is anything from $2k or so for a cheapy S1 to $4k or so (or less if you screw people down) for a Neo. Brakes are anything from $300 to $1000 depending on supply and demand and whether you use new rotors, lines and pads. So your basics range from $3k to $5k without all the possible stuff I listed above.
I'm doing it with a lot of mates rates input and it's still costing quite a lot - largely because I'm doing all the optional stuff to make it a 100,000km trouble free prospect instead of a drop in and pray conversion, plus all the desirable things like the diff, HICAS delete, etc.
If you have to do engineering because you're in some other state, then I have no idea.
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He said a "100 cell cat".
Anyway, an upshift backfire is not uncommon on auto Skylines, especially with a big exhaust. Not normally a really loud bang though. Usually just a sexy little pop thud. My R32 used to upshift dead on the rev limiter (while it was still auto) and the sound was the only good thing abotu the auto.
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The money spent on doing the various mods required to destroke the RB25 should be spent on a very good port job (not just a typical hack out - find an engine builder/head developer that knows RBs and what they need) and a very good exhaust manifold. These things will in turn improve the boost onset and extend the rev range at the top too.
There is no point having vague aims of just making a high revving destroked 25 unless you have a real need to go that way. I see that you are talking ~300kW at the crank. That target is well within the reach of pretty standard RB25s. Hell, the standard injectors will go that far. If you were spending money on a build, especially the largish amounts needed to do something odd, then you'd be wanting either a lot more power than 300kW, or you'd be looking for an engine that was pretty much bulletproof at 300kW.
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Well, there is a difference between the "always a little bit of oil there" amount and the amount that is required to come spitting out of the BOV. Any sudden increase in oil amount is not normal. I would in fact say that "normal" is none at all. My intake plumbing has always been dry.
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Damaged piston(s) and/or ring(s) leading suspects.
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I have a viscous 4.11 from a manual in the shed right now......
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thats what i thought pretty sure gtr's are the only ones that have want u want
Some further digging tells me that they were put into at least some of the NA GTs. Which seems like an odd choice.
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Shear forces are taken by the surface to surface friction of the flywheel against the flange on the crank. That friction is created by the normal force, which is provided by the bolts pulling into tension. Stronger bolts = more torque capacity = more tension = more normal force = more friction = more tangential load capacity. Unless of course you are limited by the strength of the threads in the holes in the crank, which no-one ever seems to think about when just randomly upgrading bolts.
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Neo is not just on-off. It's continuously adjustable.
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I've read a few times that all RB flywheels were the same/interchangeable?
Out of interest, anyone know the weight of each??
My std RB20DET flywheel is 9.1kg. The light one (ChroMo) I bought is 8.15kg.
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Tailshaft out, down to the tailshaft shop, balanced, back in. Job done.
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Get the wiring diagram and start looking for where the common power feeds are to see what you've shorted out. It is pretty clear that when the wiring melted on the exhaust that a big bad electrical failure happened. It doesn't take a rocket surgeon to work that out.
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You'll need to Nistune the ECU or go PowerFC to use it.
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More than likely you have killed something in the ECU when the power supply to run the sensor's heater shorted against the dump.
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Don't try to run an RB20XXX box behind an RB25DET. The RB20DET box is essentially the same thing as the RB25DE. Pretty strong, but not able to handle the torque from a 25 turbo for too long. The RB25DET box is a big heavy bastard of a thing for a reason.
But looking at your other thread, you're asking if you can put a 25DET box behind an RB20E? Well, if that's the way you were asking in this thread too, then yes, it will fit up to the motor, but I don't know if the length is the same. You might need to find the mathcing front part of the tailshaft to go with it.
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I mean if you slam a fast gear change through with single synchros and get a crunch because you've managed to get the gear teeth to touch each other before the synchros have managed to match the speeds, then doing so on a double synchro will be harder. They also are "stronger" in that they will take such abuse for longer before wearing out.
cheers
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Double sychros are harder to beat.
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An NA RB20 has all the torque of a 1 legged mouse on a mogadon and serapax cocktail. Therefore the best diff ratio will be the shortest one you can get. RB20DET autos had 4.3 which is pretty short. I think the GTS4s had 4.375 or similar, which would be better again, and I have heard people talking about 4.4 but I'm not sure where that's from (or if it's real - might just be misdescribed 4.375). Easiest option for you will likely be to get a turbo auto diff as there would have to be heaps of them lying around on scrapheaps.
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It's either the clutch fork bent/split/otherwise f**ked, or the ball could be damaged (that happens a lot) or it could be that your clutch master is shagged, internally bypassing, and so only giving you half a pedal. Oh, and the pedal brackets like to split open as well, causing the same sort of crap.
If it were me, with a stupidly stiff clutch just put in, I would get a Nismo pedal bracket (or weld some extra bracing across the top of the original one) and get a new strong-as-possible clutchfork. Just 'coz. You're going to need to beef those up anyway or they'll just shit themselves at some stage. And budget for a master cylinder as well.
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I don't know for sure, but the whole point of such protection is to protect against a loss of boost control. So using the boost control gear that is not working (and hence allowed the overboost) is not smart. Therefore I would expect it to be an ignition cut, like the original ECU.
2 Fuel Regulators?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
One is a pulse dampener. They didn't put them on the early ones, although the rumour is that GTS4 engines had them earlier than the GTSt engines. '93 engines definitely have them, dunno about anything earlier.