GTSBoy
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Posts posted by GTSBoy
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Anything other than a paper filter is not really a filter, just an ornament.
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When I said "standard" I meant "standard size and fitment" - for a coilover. As in, across a wide range of manufacturers, they all use 60mm diameter (or whatever it actually is) and the same top and bottom shape so that you just buy springs - you don't have to buy X springs for X brand coilover. You buy whatever rate spring you need.
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That joint is famous for wearing and causing steering wanders. It's the outer HICAS tie rod end.
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Are you going to add a ex wastegate port to it stao?
He said he'd rather put it on the turbine housing.
--edit--beaten
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Just a tip. It's "stoich", pronounced with a k sound at the end. Short for stoichiometric.
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Well, yeah. They take standard sized springs don't they? That's part of the logic behind coilover you know.
The only problem with that concept is that the damping might not be adjustable enough to cope with big changes in spring rate without being dismantled and revalved.
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OH.
Another Mines ECU. BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGBANG BANG BANG BANG BANG BANGv
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No, 5th doesn't change the road speed it happens at, just the revs. You just made the same mistake I did, in reverse.
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V or H diff?
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Yuh, car hits 180 speed limiter at almost the same as rev limiter when in 4th.
Granted I was thinking about running the car out in 5th and forgetting that the tailshaft speed would be 25-30% faster than engine speed.
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Remember that the critical speed is tailshaft speed, which you will only reach when you have very high road speed. 6000+ rpm at the tailshaft is fairly hiking, and is not going to happen on the road very often, and not happen on many racetracks for long either. That said, on a racecar, that will do that speed maybe once or twice every lap....you'll eventually have a bad moment, and that bad moment will upwards of 200km/hm, which you won't like. So, not a risk worth taking on a race car, and strangely enough, probably perfectly fine on a road car.
That said, I like the 2 piece design. Engineering wise it is much smarter, and does a better job of separating any movement of gearbag relative to diff from each other - not that it matters so much in an IRS car.
But for my overall preference, the only engineers who have ever really showed an interest in doing it properly are those from Peugot and Porsche (and a few others) who used a torque tube. I can remember reading that the solid driveshaft up the centre of the torque tube on a 928 was capable of absorbing something like 7 or 11 complete twists as it loaded up on launch with a 500+ HP engine in a race car. That is some serious business.
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One last thing, how do i adjust tge standard camber at the rear? Sorry if its aleeady been covered
There are eccentric bolts as the inner ends of the upper arms at the rear. But they only give a smidgin of adjustment. Not going to really get you anything. And as I said, generally when you lower a Skyline you get too much neg camber at the rear, and you want to dial it out. If you carry a lot of neg camber then you get ridiculous tyre wear, very poor straight line traction (both accel and braking) and unless you are actually really hooking into corners and loading the outside type, poor lateral traction as well. If you do and have all that just to fit excessively wide wheels and tyres, then you need a straight jacket.
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It could easily come down to how good the tune/management is and how the car is driven too. My regular drive is fairly stop start in traffic, so my consumption is dominated by that aspect of the drive. If someone else has more of a freeway drive, they may get a completely different result. More closed loop running vs less, more opportunity for the ECU to wind in a bit more timing whilst cruising (if the ECU is clever enough, which the Nissan ones aren't really, but I think the EVO ones are).
That experience was with my RB20 though. Haven't tried it with the Neo yet.
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Just leave them off while you fit the engine, then put them in from underneath afterwards I suppose. When you jack the car up and the front wheels drop, you get extra length to insert splines and so on for free.
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And those wheels are defect bait.
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The reason no-one else answered your question, and why his answer was so helpful was that your question didn't make much sense. If you leave them connected to the hubs, they hang down out of the way and you drop the motor into the engine bay. If you remove them, you just have to put them back afterwards. The question seemed close to pointless.
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No front camber adjustment. You can buy offset bushes to go in the inner and outer ends of the stock arms that will gain you a little (enough for street) adjustment (and also be much better than the squishy liquid filled rubber stock bushes that are probably stuffed anyway), or you can buy adjustable length arms of various sorts that can give you more adjustment but are not all street legal.
The rear uppers have a tiny amount of camber adjustment available stock, but again your choices for improving on that are the same as above.
You need to be able to correct excessive negative camber at the rear that results from lowering. You need to be able to add camber to the front to improve corner grip. More important than adding camber at the front through (in my opinion) is adding extra caster. Caster gains you more dynamic camber in turns without the extra tyre wear caused by having high static camber. Same path here - adjustable caster bushes or adjustable length replacement arms.
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To backtrack a few posts....my experience with United 100 was that it felt approximately the same as running BP98, but used noticably more juice and therefore cost a bit more to run. Therefore I decided no benefit.
An important point about octane and ignition timing and power is that an engine will make more power the closer to the detonation threshold it is run. If you increase the fuel octane and therefore take the operating point further away from the detonation threshold, you can reasonably expect to make slightly less power. It's the same old thing over again. Safety vs power. More of one equals less of the other.
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R32 GTSt calipers are only really different from the R33 ones in the length of the legs. They fit over the same discs, same shape pads, same pistons. The R33 are slightly beefier and don't creak as much.
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The smaller opening of the GTSt bumper is an obstacle to progress when it comes to trying to fit the cooler as it would on a GTR.
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There's little point in running extra advance at idle.
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There's no such thing as "steel" wheels. Compressors are usually an aluminium alloy. Turbines are usually a high nickel alloy (loosely categorised as a stainless steel, but it's a bit hard to call these a "steel" when there is less iron in them than there is alloying elements).
Ceramic turbines are dead obvious and easy to tell from metallic ones.
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It's a shame you're in the UK, because if you were in Aus I'd suggest sending it to someone here in Adelaide that could pretty near build you a complete new head out of welding rod. FWIW, that head looks completely repeairable, but you'd need to find someone trustworthy to quote on it, because you're going to have to balance the amount of work and money required to pull the seats and guides out of those chambers and do all the prep, weld and refinish against the amount of time/money/effort you have otherwise sunk into the porting and anything else done to the head.
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That gets you fisted in Adelaide. It's right behind the attachment point of the bumper bar and is a serious (to them) change to the vehicle's crumple zone.
What Causes Blade Damage? Oil In Intake?
in Engines & Forced Induction
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Yuh, oil comes off the filter, gets on the hot wire. Hot wire cooks it until it carbonises.
This is not true of all mass air flow meters. Flappy door ones (olde schoole) are not bothered and Vortex counting types give no fark either.