ZimNismoBoy

its on route now will take photos when its here if any one needs the contact info please give me a shout.

i thought so too... but in the nissan fast system you get Standard pistons, you get N1 pistons and you get Nur pistons . I always thought the N1 pistons were the Nur pistons but appears not based on the difference in part numbers. And for sure they are different in the nissan fast. ABO stands for Nur on most of the lables i have seen based on a Nur engine. the Tags for nur engines have ABO on them as i received a nur spec engine and that had the nissan tag with serial number etc.

thanks there buddy, im crossing my fingers that the pistons will fit the block im going to get, ive specifically asked to try and get a matched block with grade 1 cylinders so that the bores are graded to a 1 and match pistons . Wish me all the best else it means ordering another set of pistons and hopefully selling this lot that i have ?? if the block isnt the same bore size. Thanks Cheers for now

So i have ordered new pistons and received them. Confirming they are nur pistons all is clear .... maybe not. Im getting a new block and will need to ensure i have the correct grade pistons for the block . So the block hasnt come yet and i have grade 1 pistons across the board. All 6 of them . So now if i receive a block that says grade 2 across the top stamped on all cylinders that means i wil have pistons that are too small for the bore .... am i right . the pistons come with a grading number on the top for a new block and have to be matched correctly with the bore . Please let me know your thoughts if it means i order a new set of pistons when the block comes then so be it but what a bodge . Any ways look forward to hearing from you guys . Cheers Adam

from what ive been told they are stronger then stock and can take more Bhp per piston . But i needed to know if i have the correct part numbers for the build that im doing . Should i have n1 pistons or nur pistons? with the above part number ? please help me confirm

I received 6 new pistons today from the couriers and i have the part number on the side of the box. From what i can tell in the fast system they are Nur pistons . But its all jibberish. Please can some else help me out and set my fears at ease. Part No A2010-AB000 Piston with pin assembly. Cost was $ 810 usd for a full set Keep in mind im building a Nur engine . The pistons arent shiny and have a mat finish . Almost like they have been heat treated.

recieved my pistons today new Nur units part number A2010-AB000 and in good time too well packaged and excellently priced .

I can give you a contact in america as i managed to pick up my block for 1300 usd . Let me know

mind you i didnt try the members discount, but im interested in that crate motor any know who is selling a crate motor ? I have to buy a new block and 6 new pistons and possibly 6 new rods ? So thats almost a whole sub ? What a way to go any ways any one has any good sales or advice please give me a shout on here. Thankyou in Advance

Any one bought from Nissan race shop in California Fontana ? Any one had experience with them ?

spoke to them, they say they order in from japan, looks like they are legit, i just hope they come through for me. Will see how things go.

thanks for that Just jap expensive though and so is ebay. I have found it online at Nissan race shop for 1250 usd dont know how true but will wait and see ?

As the title says im looking for a good and i mean really good second hand block or absolutely brand new block 24U N1 for a gtr34. My old block isnt bad but isnt great either and im requiring a really good block if any one knows where i can get one or has one ? Please let me know. thanks in Advance . Adam

Thanks for that KT_87 though i am still wondering about this So we have everything balanced balancer, then crank then the flywheel assembly, then the clutch cover etc. But here i have a new crank, new ATI damper pulley, new Nismo twin plate clutch coppermix. So should i be getting this all rebalanced again ? And now after i get this all balanced, then does this mean that when i do a clutch change job i have to strip the motor, and re balance everything ? See my theory is this, they say for high performance engines you need to balance the whole rotating assembly, and i agree with this. But on a high performance engine you would be stripping it more frequently to get everything redone bearings etc, as this type of engine will be running High BHP and also will see track use all the time pretty much . Now on a streeter like my nur engine is going to be, its going to be a engine that doesnt see much track use, but more street use, the factory rpm rev limit is at 8400rpm . So the Nur spec engine is finely balanced and through nissan you have the option of ordering a Complete long block assembly, as well as purchasing a Nur spec short block assembly.That is high balanced too ? And if this is the case would i still need to strip the engine and resend all the parts excluding the ATI damper pulley for balancing ? This the reason i ask all these questions lol. Alot to take it i know but its all for peace of mind, and also for the other users of the forum that seek some good solid answers .

Ok im not sure if i have posted in the wrong section, no responses lol. Any ways im going to ask if there is any one who can comment ? OR shouldi move the post to a technical section rather sorry op's maybe posted this in the wrong place please correct me if im wrong . Thanks Adam

Found these after some serious searching http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112749 http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_0504_engine_balancing_tech_terminology/piston_rod_crank_balancing.html http://www.rpmmachine.com/engine-balancing.shtml

Right so here i am studying the rb26 and other engines as a whole. I sent a request to japan to a good friend regarding the balancing of the bottom end of a rb26dett. The response i got from the Nismo shop was something like this . Imagine we have customers who come in daily who request a after market clutch (Nismo Single or Twin plate ) that comes with its own flywheel. So they replace these daily and have never not once ever had a come back on any of their jobs where the engine runs a bearing etc because of the bottom end becoming out of balance. So here is the scenario, you get a balanced crank shaft that has been balanced from the factory . You get a clutch assembly that has also been balanced from factory by nismo or hks or Exedy. These two seperate articles are balanced in their own right . Now you get them balanced and matched to each other so that when you assemble the engine you dont have a crank and flywheel that are out of balance that would damage your engine at high rpm. Never the less you also have the damper fitted when they balance everything . Then you have your engine running and 25 000kms later because you have beebn enjoying the car and have been launching it just too many times the clutch packs in, you go off and purchase a new clutch system like you would in Japan . A complete Kit that comes with the flywheel etc. Now comes the question, do you take the engine out and remove the crank then send off the flywheel and clutch cover and damper pulley to the balancing shop because its what you did the first time ? Or do you leave it in like most shops would and then fit the new flywheel solid or dual mass with some loctite and let the customer go off and pay your labour cost because you know as long as the flywheel is balanced and the crank is balanced that both should be balanced when assembled ? This is something that i have been thinking about for a long time and i have been wanting to post the question up for quite a while now . I have even gone across the net looking for a similar situation to try and see what other owners of straight six engines are doing but havent found anything . So im asking on here and on other forums, you have the facts and you even have the fact that nismo doesnt follow the practises that we do so why are we doing it then ?> Should it be done ?

lol this ones for keeping close to stock. The beast will come in the form of a gtr32 possibly as i dont see the point in modifying this clean car lol. It will be a weekend cruiser and some times a day cruiser. But i do want to make horse power and im seriously thinking of going for a rb30dett sounds exciting but that will come later. thanks for the help will post again soon once i have the ever so big lump of cash for the short block assembly.

Hello, just a small update was looking at my cams and went on the greddy trust website . http://www.trust-power.com/overseas/ov_products.html?cate=6&item=152 This is a drop in cam shaft and happens to be the cam shafts that i have model 13526204 Seems that i dont need uprated valve springs . So im lucky on this one will keep you guys updated when i get the short block assembly have to save up for it tough one . Thanks for that heads up had me thinking there quite a bit.

Hello Beer Baron and thankyou for that info. From what i have gathered from doing research these past few days it looks like im going to go with a Nissan subassembly assembled and strip and recheck it as the cost of parts alone is coming up to more expensive before assembly by 500 usd or so. So thats 500usd more for a set of tomei rods included in parts alone. Im assuming that Nissan has a greater mark up on parts then on a complete whole sub assembly unit. never the less i wont need to check much accept check that they have cleaned the block correctly that means stripping the motor. Then checking the clearances correct on mains and big ends etc . Reason i say this is because there has been a number of people who have bought complete engines from Nissan and checked the clearances etc and found problems, as well as with the R type rebuilt blocks that also have had loads of issues including the engine i bought from a company called Flatwell racing, they supplied me a engine rebuilt from nissan and it was a dud. So be carefull out there . I have a nismo head gasket already are these no good 1.2mm? I have a extended sump that also holds about 7.8 litres of oil i dont know if this is enough or not ? What is the average sump extension size ? Hope to hear back from you thanks for the advise Cheers Adam Ps the cams i had were being used on standard valve springs . they are 264 degree cams intake and exhaust .

Still No one can answer this one ? Come one guys some one must know ?

So have been on the net a while and i have been looking at different options for long block assemblies. I have gone into the fast system and pulled this part number for a Nissan short block assembly for my gtr34 Vspec II Nur 10103-AB051 Now i have emailed power house racing about this as well and have not been given a confirmed answer so im posting on here The engine being sold on powerhouseracing website says its a Nur short block assembly but has a different part number 10103-AA450 So what is the difference between these two, can any one with enough knowledge say what exactly is going on here ? Which engine represents which model of car, am i right in saying the AA450 engine is from the Gtr32 and Gtr33 series and the AB051 is from the gtr34 engine series ? Im very confused, to make matters worse the short block assembly from Japan for the AB051 i was quoted is 6000usd And the AA450 i was also quoted the same price . But on power house racing website its 4850.00 Usd . Should i be scared of buying that particular motor ? Hope you guys can help thankyou.

Look i understand that you guys want me to get a engine built by a good builder, but im tight on budget and have two hands half a brain and two eyes. i also have the ability to learn and have learnt alot since we last spoke . I have also built two Rb 20 engines and one 4age engine and have done this with some fair amount of investigation and downloading of clearances etc. I just wondered why i was told to use a standard bearing size on all the builds i have done so far and needed some clarification. So i dont want to pay some one else to build an engine i want to build. We have been down this road and i dont want to even start the topic again either. Lets put it this way ... im excited to check measure and build an engine as nice as a rb26dett. And it wont be the last engine i build infact its the start of many more to come i want to build my next gtr32 engine as well to a serious spec. And then if im going to be boring blocks and needing engineering done i will get a company in Australia to build and machine for me then import it back and run a beast of a car. But at present i want to build this engine for this car .... note build this engine and this car being the most important words. Its an aspiration, please dont flame me and put me down i think enough of that has happened, i have often walked away from the forum feeling like an idiot. So to cut out the machine work, a new block, new crank and new rods will be purchased and ring gaps checked, bearing clearances checked and tested etc. Then the motor will be assembled and run . I need guidance not insults and being told where to send my sub assembly etc etc. I even thought if fitting a Nitto crank 73.7mm crank with rods and pistons and even considered a sub assembly built by a company chosen by Nitto performance. But there is not satisfaction there, especially for the guys who love building engines their pride is in building checking and assembling a complete motor and then saying, i did that i assembled it and i made it run . Please dont take offence.... no one should take offence. Im almost ready to order the parts, then assembly takes place.

Interesting information put there. But picture this, you live in a third world country where the engineering standards have never been good, they cant even skim a head properly let alone grind/straighten a crank shaft, and then there is still boring the block and honing, which the honing part i can do but boring cannot be done they are useless, and to make matters worse tunnel boring or line boring block crank journals and head cam journals has been tested here and never comes back good enough to build a high performance engine. So essentially this is ,my build New block Factory spec N1 New pistons Factory Spec N1 with N1 rings New rods Tomei cheaper than factory Rb26 Rods A set of Acl bearings mains and Big ends X size with 0.0001" extra clearance so the crank can flex a bit New set of oil piston sprayers And the rest i already have Ati damper pulley Tomei Baffle sump Tomei high flow oil pump Tomei head restrictor 1.2mm Ported and polished head Viton Valve stem seals Nismo twin plate clutch with flywheel New head bolts from Nissan Greddy 264 Degree cams intake and exhaust with vernier pulleys Magnetic drain plug and magnetic Oil filters to be safe on the new build i dunno if there is anything else i missed out but never the less im not aiming for Big hp, im just building a good reliable engine. So if im getting factory spec block and factory spec pistons to suit it should be good to go ?