ZimNismoBoy

I need a Nur engine or block because i have a Nissan skyline Gtr34 Vspec II Nur and its supposed to be kept original dont want to make it worthless by slamming a 1000bhp R32 thick wall block into it. Please help me out its a rough position to be and i will be honest the temptation to go RB30 and go highly modified is so strong........ So essentially i need to get a got nur engine or nismo fine spec. i know its a waster etc etc but a standarrd block and a nur block are like 500 usd dollars difference .

Hello everyone on the forum. I am investigating some information i read on the forum about Nissan Japan ceasing production of rb26dett blocks and engines this year completely. Take note i read this information last year and couldn't believe it, so im still trying to confirm it, i know nothing of how Nissan Japan works . With this recent earth quake its going to be even harder to confirm if they are still producing or have stopped producing . So im relying on the information from well contacted forum members, Can some one please shed some light on this, Please can some one let me know what information they might have on production or when they produce or were going to produce engines in batches before the earth quake. And when they are going stop production . Im interested in getting a complete Nur long block assembly but failing that i will have to assemble a block and rods pistons etc myself from new components if i cant get a complete motor ? Hope to hear from you guys soon. Thanks in Advance . Cheers Adam

*Bump* Got a feeling im going to have to buy this in components all new and stuff blaaaahh . Any ways if any one has anything please give me a shout thanks . Cheers Adam

Yup thats the one could you take a photo and email me [email protected] Is it new or used ?

Hello everyone, The time has come i need to get my car back on the road. I need a Nur spec engine or Nismo Fine spec engine ? depending on prices. Or alternatively if some one has a second hand nur or nismo fine spec in fine condition . Or a block and crank and pistons rods and bearings and some conrod bolts etc to build a complete bottom end. I basically need a motor short of anything. please let me know if any of you have any of this stuff or all of it . Cheers Adam Zimbabwe Africa.

Hello everyone i have a gtr34 and have enquired about this part number 21305-AA411 Its a Oil to water heat exchanger and i have been told nissan doesnt produce these any more ? maybe im using a old part number can some one please help me out to find this part its called a modine unit or oil to water heat exchanger ? Please fellow members . I dont want to use a rb20 block fitting as i dont have a oil cooler and in Africa the temps are quite high here.

Hi Matt a great job a Nur spec built to full spec lol. Im from africa interested in your old motor do you still have it tried to pm you ? Let me know Cheers Adam

here is the part number if any one needs it for the accumulator . 41630-20U00

Hello, Seasons greetings members. I am looking for a brand new set of bearing catridges for gtr34 turbos as mine are slightly damaged. Please could some one advise or email me [email protected] if they can supply ? The turbos are not damaged and the shafts and wheels and covers are all ok just the bearing catridges are starting to fail. Please kindly advise if there is some one who can supply genuine catridges from garrett. Hope to hear from some one thanks. Cheers Adam

Thanks for that input. I still need a part number though but i was thinking about bridging the pipes and then running a filter block of a Rb20 ?? Does it bolt straight on and what about the sensor ?

I need to know after speaking to a few people and some builders some say replace and some say dont replace?? My engine got badly damaged after the crank walked and ate up some of the block not on the center journal though.... So my turbos are damaged and some slight scouring marks to the head caps . With all that rubbish going through the relief valve of the oil piston squirter should i replace all six of them ?? My current builder says the spring inside the oil relief valve would have been damaged and better to be safe then sorry. Ps and any one have a part number for a modine unit, Aka oil water heat exchanger ? i need one for my Gtr34 motor ? Cheers hope to hear from you soon ?

I know a N1 motor is a waste of money but i would like to keep the car with a 24U block at least as thats a stronger block and what makes a good foundation for the car then add a stronger oil pump and add a few more stronger bits and peices. Thanks for that advice though ..

The score marks arent deep maybe light like some scratching when you run a ball pen along a soft peice of would i'd say eve half the depth of that... Not sure how to measure them as i am not a machinist but i'd say less then half a thousand of an inch. The cam shafts how ever were worse for wear being damaged so badly that they had dropped in size on the cam shaft journal facing about 2 thousands of a inch maybe more. The cam shaft housings arent over size by alot less then a thousand of a inch. But still thinking for peice of mind if i am going to install some new cam shafts then we might as well lightly line bore and then re shim and set cold cam clearances on intake and exhaust valves. I will try and take some pics and post them online and show you how bad the scoring is. Thanks very much for your help

when my last engine failed .... a N1 crate motor from japan apparently a rebuilt unit, the head had some damage on the cam shaft journals they are slightly scared and have some score marks on the cam caps not actually the journals seats where the oil feed is from. So i was thinking of getting it fixed as i can run the head like that but i wouldnt take the risk ... would you even though its less then 1 thou over size? Then re assemble and do the clearances? then assemble to a new block sub assembly from japan for the sake of keeping the nur engine as my car is a Vspec II nur ?? and run a slightly larger sump ? With the tomei oil pump and also not forgetting a head restrictor ? Would i need restrictors for the turbos garrett gt2871r's ? Thanks for the info guys . I really appreciate it.

lol some same page thinking. should i buy a complete motor or just the short block sub assembly from japan?? the head is what costs alot from what ive been told?? so im going to try have my head line bored in south africa and then reshim and fit a stock sump or wing but def not a stock oil pmp abbey motorsport recon first change your pump best thing you can ever do to your motor

i need to look into some shipping options what are your cheapest options in aussie and new zealand. i did ask a few questions a few weeks ago but more along the lines of building motors and not buying prebuilt or almost built as i cant take the risk to build as i was stupid to try do this. so i want to put a strong motor in i beleive there was a nismo fine spec engine for sale but as the cost is a bit too much i will try go for something cheaper. i need some options on what i should be thinking of doing can some people give me some prices rob from ripz quoted me 15k but this was a forged assembly. the tomei oil pump is merely a precaution as the oil pump i had krapped itsself and if i go with a sub assembly block it wont come with a oil pump so i can go for a good pump. hence the reason i feel the need to go for such a nice spec oil pump even on a krap build that wont be making more power then 400bhp as ive heard too many factory oil pumps dying . i thankyou for your input and wait to hear some more info from you all. kind regards adam

I have some options which i would like air and get some honest feed back on . I have R34 and i have been thinking of rebuilding my engine but because i dont have experience in core engine assembly i want to ask the following and ask which is a better option. Remember i live in africa and dont want to run huge bhp and cant map. Hello everyone, Hope you are all well. im thinking of gong with a short block assembly from nissan crank, pistons, rods, rings, bearings and block. Then using my old head and sump cleaned up ..... Based on the fact that i dont have a great budget this is simply what i can afford. Then get a new oil/water heat exchanger. and a new tomei oil pump and fit a nismo head gasket. Fact is yes i am broke ive bought a R34 and have to pay it off and fix it .... or sell it . Im sure few maybe lots of you are in the same situation, or have been in the same sistuation. So technically i dont want to build a complete motor but im aiming at putting a head onto a engine block and a sump and external equipment. Rag me if you wish put me down but all im asking is if you were in the same position would you do the same considering africa is close to uk but far from NZ and Aussie and Japan. this would cost roughly the following Short block 6 000 usd Turbos 3000 usd garrett gt2871r's nismo head gasket set 650 usd oil/water heat exchanger 350 usd tomei oil pump 1450 usd Nismo twin plate clutch assembly 2300 usd Shipping 1000usd from japan Total roughly is 15 000 usd building would be slightly cheaper but the fear of machining not done right and my lack of building experience is also against me. I would have loved to purchase a unit from rob but he has quoted me for a r32 block and forged internals something like 15 000usd then turbos and clutch and shipping still have to be added. and it becomes oh so expensive ... Any ways with that being said i would like to hear what you all think

Its so funny cause i had the exact same problem and so many people on the forums said it was normal. I remember when i first got my Gtr34 it never used to do this clicking thing in the boot and then after the first engine failed the car sat for so long so i presume thats when the accumalator lost its pressure ... Then when i got the second motor in and started driving her around town running it in i remember pulling up to a robot and hearing this constant clicking sound it used to bug me terribly. So i posted a few questions and never had them really answered. I even used examples of other gtr34's attessa system pump sounds and never was the relay noise ever mentioned. As fas as i know the pump should engage once when the car is just been started and then you wont hear it again till some track use or hard driving with some major turning and high speed cornering then a few seconds later after you stop and let the car idle you shouldnt hear the relay clicking you should actually hear a pump high pitched whine coming from the rear of the car and that means its charging up the attessa accumalator. Thankyou for taking the time and pain staking process of trying to solve this problem. I remember on gtr.co.uk there is a guy there called joker69 or something like that he also had the same problem and replaced his attessa accum.... and viola problem solved amazing. i would still suggest bleeding the system after fitting the new unit as you will get air trapped in the system and bleed the whole system starting from the resevoir and then the pump at the back and then finally the front Bleed nipple that is next to what they call the clutch pack on the front transfer case. Thankyou again when i get my car on the road again maybe in a year or so i will post when i replace the accum and let you guys know what results i get as well. Cheers and well done...

i spen 15k over a period of three years so 5k a year roughly saving hard . i bought the car and put down 10 000 usd and am paying off the rest over like 5 years . so basically i am not rich i loved the car so much i worked my butt off to get it and now i have a long way to pay off and still no engine 15k later ts rough especially knowing rob has quoted me 15k to build a bottom end thats fully balanced and forged with a good used 33 block not even my n1 block ?? so i still have to add a good head and some good turbos and a clutch assembly . a brand new nur unit from rhdjapan is 11 000usd . a nismo fine spec is 13 000usd turbos 3 000usd clutch and clutch cover and flywheel 2300usd including shipping. the costs all add up and it would be better for me to pay shipping from one way outside in then both ways as its adds even more costs.

my first engine failure where the arp bolt failed after a very well known tuner in south africa rebuilt my engine not sure if i can mention their names on here would love to as he has caused my nothing but hell and wont compensate me for possibly a overtightened bolt or undertitghened. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/92844-conrod-bi...-block-why.html

here is a link back to a post with my second engine failure http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/133557-1200kms-...-guess-how.html

Wow its a crazy world we live in. I didnt ask for a high spec engine i wanted a normal rb26dett. I agree building a motor like this isnt for me and i wont attempt it. But i will make sure i am not going to be in this position again. so im going toi start learning on some shitty corollas and other cars. Thankyou for your advice and true to the fact i wasnt being realistic and i guess you have explained it really well.... was an idiot to even think of attempting it. But i guess the easiest approach here would be to eithersend my engine to japan or new zealand or even uk. or buy another engine which i think im actually going to do . Any one with some Brand new Nur spec engines for sale . Im also looking for a some garrett gt2860 -5's actually i am looking for some Nur spec N1 Cores cause my bearing cores are shot. If not is there any one out there that can give me a really good price on some Garrett Gt2871R's -10 Thank you all kind regards Adam I

you know its so weird how people interpret different sentences and questions on a page. i never thought i was coming across as offensive not even in the mildest degree .... my apologies if i sound like a arrogant c u n t. im an idiot but i try my best to figure stuff out. i can imagine a merc though my corolla 86 has been beaten to death and still goes strong after a hard day drifting. i will get my state of tune checked once i get the motor in. i will try and pay a good tuner to build me an engine and get it tuned as a set. im not an idiot ive set clutches on a subaru wrx and on subaru legacy.s they use the same clutch system. my question was simple did i miss something on fitting this motor back in on the clutch adjustment that might have caused the failure ?.? im not afrikaans nor a dutch man i live in zimbabwe. a days drive from johannesburg . i wont embarke on the building the engine plea cause alot of peole have discouraged it . but i would like to know how a clutch should be setup on a skyline. how a ati damper pulley should be fitted. and a few other questtions . i bought a nur spec because i thought it would have more resale value should i ever need to sell the car one day. i just dont understand why no one likes progression no one wants to try something they might love or admire. i love engine building its an art and one that doesnt come easy .... why kick a dog when its down, im two engines down and well where can i go from here i have to find a solutuons and if the funds dont permit sending my engine gearbox and or car what else can i do ..... it appears forums are a place wherre people dont help each other out its a place where you post a problem and get told sorry u cant do it send xyz off to zzz person and get it done there simple . so i guess thats what i have to do thanks guys for all your help. sorry again if this post has offended anyone

thankyou for your interest in my topic. will try and get some links up of what photos i have taken but what photos are the most important to try get to the root of the problem?? rob a big thankyou i have sent you an email with my location. and some possible options. again a big thankyou all.

no offense i ask rob lots of questions if he was so keen to help and wanted my business he would entertain me and at least advise me how to go about finding where the problem came from yes or no??? for you first world people sending an engine off is so dam easy picture this i send my motor off it will cost me about 2000usd one way for shipping . and there is a high and very high chance it will get lost or stolen think about it this is not england or usa or aus this is africa . a flight to any of the places aussie or new zealand would cost 1500 usd and would take apporx 15 hours . better for me to buy a brand new built engine from japan it would be cheaper then suggesting i blow cash sending a motor to rob to be fixed that might not even be repairable honestly. then 1000 dollars spent on shipping and i would still be no where close ...... lets be frank with each other i could spend loads of cash chasing my tail . but i need answers who can tell me how to setup my cluttch pedal travel correctly ?? who can tell me where i can get a second hand engine or brand new gtr34 engine from. who can give me genuine advice to help find out what caused my second engine failure and not assume or point me to some bloke on the moon for help. im asking cause on the pom forum people said find out what caused the failure but no one asked for pics . no one said lets go through this from start to finish and find out what caused the problem. how can i find out the problem if no one is willing to see the parts and comment. fair rob said no point in continuing until you find what caused engine failur e but i cant guess on my own what caused engine failure i need your help .