jjman

Iv always been interested to know whether Mines ecu's were actually truly a good and relatively safe tune on the vehicle it was originally tuned for and any other things the tuners might have done to make it work in some more safe way. Or were they always 'go-GO-BOOM' boxes...

ah ok. cheers for that run down. All makes alot more sense now I havent been able to get my temps to budge off 72 as yet with my new radiator so seems to be doing its job. (thermofanned too, which dont come on much at all unless in stop start and when they do it pulls the heat out real quick)

true enough. cheers. otherwise if anybody can answer this question on radiators. What is the deal with the number of cores, e.g. 'dual core' or more radiators and is it necessary?. I have no idea what my 52mm fleabay radiator is either..

how did it buckle n buldge? just design/manufacturing issues or was it under pressure and torsion while in the car and at operating temp/movement?

Sorry to thread hijak, but on this topic (radiators n quality/design etc), i bought an ebay essentially no-name brand 52mm aluminium radiator for my R33 GTST. It seems to work great and temp are stable and the heat really dissepates quickly from it. Also its a welded design, not glued so certainly seems strong too. Is there any reason that ebay radiators are often bagged out? I mean i had to fiddle and mod the mounts a bit to get it to fit but apart from that it seems great... ?

i know of several cases where people with mines ecu's have grenaded motors while running stock boost. Its not the AFR's that are the problem on mines ecu's, its the timing maps (which is why they generally make a car feel GREAT! that much timing brings it alive! but dangerously)

throw the mines ecu out and get a decent computer and a good tune.

but otherwise, seriously man, id consider getting different rims. You are going to get defected so damn quick with those rims that you will end up in a world more hassle than you have now.

nice yellow R34 GTT with bodykit n hid Defs on manning rd what k rating are those high def lights?

no dont. Do things one at a time that way you can work out what is the cause of the problem/ the fix. Also you might find that dropping it to the height that the previous ovwner had it at will solve your problem, simple. Sorted. Long live mexico

yes. the stufff we noted above...

you worked out what this was yet mate or just driving it around hoping it will go away?

yeah the nismo 550 side feeds are yellow. thats what i have and certainly are yellow

yeah in WA the edge fully synthetic series is on special atm. 10W40 ftw

At the SAUWA skidpan day. Cheers for the epic pics Dan.

welcome to skyline ownership. there is always something to be done/breaking. havent tried modifying n upping the power yet have you? then it starts getting really interesting...

replacing the whole rear subframe is a bit of a mission, but if its what you got to do its what you got to do. Nonetheless, i cant see any reason why you couldnt weld this up and brace it etc... P.S. dont drive that, if that trailing arm manages to break completely loose you'll do alot of damage to alot of components (suspension, and bodywork.)

if some sort of a joint cover/boot has split then all the grease starts pissing out pretty rapidly. If u had posted this up last week i could have taken a pic of this on my bunky to compare it to urs before i wiped it all up n wished the cv joint the best of luck in life n kept driving it. bottom line is. Jack it up (safely) and get under it and take some time working out where it could be coming from. if you cant then wipe it all up as much as possible, drive it, then get under it in a day or 2 and see if you can see the source of the leak before it covers everything again. N for christs sake, its obvious something has split/leaking (n a fair bit by ur description) so if anything sounds/feels amis get it to a mechanic asap. Otherwise, get it to a mechanic asap. A decnt shop that you have a good relationship with will usally have a quick look at something like this for free so they can diagnose it for you and give you a quote before you make the time to book it in and get it fixed...

hahahaha, i can barely type... its probably grease as that gets that creamy look too it when it starts to ooze out of somewhere n some dust n grim gets in the mix too.

yeah that wasnt as easy as all that.... What point do people usually mark to line up the CAS with that isnt covered by the cambelt cover upon refitting? anyways, few measurements later on the new rubber seals etc before inserting in the cover and iv got it straight.

whilte the sewerage processing systems can deal with it, doesnt mean that it easily or prefereably can. For example, the amount of processing that it takes to sort bleach via the sewerage system is huge. But of course most people do use bleach in their toilets n sinks. But, essentially, its bad for the sewerage processing system. Im sure coolant would also fall into this category.

alright. appreciated mate.

SO i had my cam belt cover taken off a while back as it was vibrating due to perished rubbers etc. Iv replaced the rubbers and am now going to refit but obviously i need to remove and refit the cam angle sensor in this process. Is there anything i need to be aware of in removeing and refitting the cam angle sensor? the shop said that if i mark the position of the sensor ill be able to see the markings and line them up as i refit it with the cover. Just want to make sure its as easy as this as its a tuned motor n dont want to throw anything out that will pop a motor :S also how much tension/torque to put on the bolts holding it on roughly? cheers

bottom line is thats going to be an extremely laggy turbo on an RB25. So yeah, 4.5-5000rpm is probably about where the fun lies. However, why the boost is not at the same point seems a bit strange. What are you readaing said boost on? did you get a dyno printout of when the car was tuned with the GT35? that should tell you when the power should come as well as what psi of boost you should be seeing...

if it was fine immediately before the pod install then u have an air leak somewhere after the air flow meter (AFM), probably between the AFM and the turbo intake. or you have disturbed some of the wiring for your boost controller. Is there noticable black smoke coming out the exhaust?