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definitely no pinging. last time i checked with Yavus, the knock was 40-50knocks and it was fine and when hit about 100 then you can hear the ping. Also with my car, i have never seen knock over 10 when startup. Not all engine have the same knock reading. When i add 2 degree advance, the knock will go straight up to 80-100 and you can hear the pinping. would the pinging snapped the rod, and all the pistons are perfectly fine. Also on cylinder 1 i have allowed 1%more fuel. The reason i posted here just to show that anything more than 300rwkw and 7500rpm is not safe, just a matter of time depending on the condition of the engine. 7000rpm limit would probably live longer. I have already prepared for this to happen and i decided to increase the power to see where the stocky can take me. Don't flame me, i just wanna share info.

mods: PowerFC, GTX3071R Garret, 0.6 cpm Cover, 0.82 IW, 23psi, Sard 555s, 3inch turbo back exhaust, Greddy type24 600x276x76mm FMIC, new Split Fires with HKS twin power, NGK BCRP7ES 1.1mm plugs, Water Methanol injection, 375ml min nozzle, Pomcams, electric fan & water pump fuel: Shell optimax power: no dyno, butt dyno +300rwkw @23psi oil: Shell Helix 5w40 fully synthetic useage: daily use lifespan: 200rwkw - 6years, 275rwkw - 3years, +300rwkw @21psi - 1 year (<2000km). +300rwkw @24psi - 2 weeks failure: Conrod number 1 smashed 3months ago. comments: I did all works & tuning myself. Knock never exceed 25knock counts.

measured the piston and it is the same as the r33's. it is about 31.5mm compression height.

measured the CP piston today and the compression height is exactly the same as my stock piston, about 31.5mm. putting next to each other and the height from the wrist pin to the top of piston is exactly the same. seem like people are saying the r34 block and crank are the same as r33, if everything are the same, then the machiner took off too much meat from the block (by .8-1mm is crazy). my tommei head gasket is 1.2mm, i assume that it won't be enough right?

the block has been decked. i will take some pics when i'm there at the mechanic sometime in couple days. I have also attached CP piston SC7305 (mine- 86.5mm 9:1CR) and SC7307 (86mm bore ans 8.5:1CR) specification, the compression height is the same. SC7305-1.pdf SC7307.pdf

without the head fitted the piston is sitting about 1mm above deck. If r34 block and crank are the same as r33 then the piston is wrong. But looking at the CP spec and having consult with CP people they confirm that they have the same compression height. this is what they said "CP Pistons said that the valve reliefs are the same for both the 8.5:1CR and 9.0:1CR pistons. They say they design the pistons to accept high lift and +1.0mm oversized valves. Neo piston is different to non neo, the main different being compression height." I have also post this in the Force Induction Performance section. seem like i still have no answer, I'm totally confused.

all parts are for r33det, only the block and crankshaft is from r34. The CP piston used is SC7305 (which has 9:1CR 86.5mm). The compression height for for the 9:1CR and 8.5:1CR is the same. "CP Pistons said that the valve reliefs are the same for both the 8.5 and 9.0 pistons. They say they design the pistons to accept high lift and +1.0mm oversized valves." If the above is true, than r34 block or crankshaft is different to r33. Has anyone done this before (ie using r34 block/crankshaft and everything else are to suit r33)? Will measure the stock piston. I know for sure that r34 and r33 pistons are different (different in compression height.

piston number 1 was fitted to the r34 crank and block, the piston (for r33 with Cp piston 9:1CP and Manley rod) is sitting about 1mm above the deck. is it because the CP piston with 9:1CP?

look like i will need to buy the r33 block. can anyone else comfirm? thanks all

can someone please comfirm taht r33det & r34 gtt crankshaft and engine block are interchagneable? Thanks in advance.

OK, just to clear it, i've got r33 gtst, my rod (number 1 let go about 2 months ago and i have bought all the part for rebuild. My mechanic has r34 gtt block, i use his bottom block with my non neo head. I was told that the block is both the same. Is the crank for the neo and non neo (rb25det not neo) the same? when putting one of the piston and rod in the top edge of the piston is about 1mm above the surface of the block (head gasket is not installed yet). is sthis normal? should the top edge of the piston sitting flush with the block surface?

it is for non neo, but my mechanic bought the r34 block which he believed it to be the same. What i bought was for non neo cp pistion with 9.0:1CP and Manley Rod. the rod lenght of rb25 and 26 are the same? because on the box it says rb26.

guys/girls, can someone please comfirm weather the rb25 s2 and rb25 neo block is the same block or not? Just got my mechanic to put in the rod and and CP piston 9.0:1CP in the r34 block and it is heating the head. Thanks in advance.

can someone please let me know if evo 9 brake caliper (front) can be fitted on r33 gtst? what do i need to make it fit? also i can i use the evo 9 rotor? thanks

my r33 seems to have unstable idle when after warmup. where exactly is the thin wire coil? is the vac line coming out from the bottom of the AAC unit to the air regulator? thanks

with cams it will bring your boost on earlier and give you atleast 10kw everywhere. Yeah, i've been running 20psi with gcg for the last 5 years and now with the gtx i'm running 23psi on the stocker. Finger cross! lucky i don't drive alot. Maybe 255-275 semi slick time for you!! So what is your rpm when you hit 20psi?

just want to compare to mine in regarding to the air flow rate. Are you intending to run higher boost? do you have cam?

Mick - of curiosity what is your max voltage reading on your PFC assuming you have z32 AFM?

No diff work just the suspension, just as whiteline swaybars, whiteline pineapple kit, camber upper bushes front and rear, tein super street (setting at 345mm front arch to wheel center). The rear camber i set to -0.5degree and toe in 1mm to give me more traction, while the front -2degree with 2mm toe in and maximum castor. Never had any problem with the garrett 1 bar actuator. my old hks ecv3 seems to hold the boost pretty steady to redline, may drop like 1psi. It seem like come on boost reasonably quick. previously when i installed the pomcams while with the gcg highflow, i have gained 400-500rpm. I don't know if the big actuator can actually bring the boost on earlier.

i thought i want to share my experience with the gtx3071r with 0.82 rear housing and 1bar actuator, which i have fitted since last xmas. To date i still haven't putted on the dyno as i don't have time and didn't worry me. I have been road tuning myself. My r33 has all the usual supports including pomcams. On street i can tell you that it is more responsive than my GCG highflow with vg30. on 4th gear the boost gets to 20psi at about 3700rpm, where as my old gcg about 4000-4100rpm. I have been running 23psi and my z32 peaking 5.1v on the cold night and 4.95-4.99v on a low 20degree day. It is a lot stronger than the gcg turbo. the gcg with mwi, i had 275rwkw and my 255 federal rsr rear had no problem with traction in 2 gear when warm up. Now with the gtx3071r & mwi my 255 federal rsr have no chance in second gear, and in 3rd unless the tyres are warm up otherwise i get wheel spin. i have tested 80-120km/h in 3rd gear and it took 2.7s. still haven't got my datalogit working with window 7 yet. hence ordering 275wide r888 from Taleb. I only drive the car like 3000km a year. i think it has a bit more in it, but had already push my stocky engine enough! just have to wait until i have the fund to do the internal.

thanks mate, look like for now i will have to settle with current setup with 255 on the rear. will look at pulling/flare the guard if i need to go wider.

i want 275/285 to give more traction. as mentioned i'm running 255 fed rsr. used to have 280 rwkw and the 255 was fine with 2nd gear... but since upgrade the turbo i have problem with traction, in 3rd gear i have no traction until it really warm up and which just give a bit of chirp. hence only go wider rim for more rubber.

yeah i will roll them! between i have super street tein coilover, not overly firm but firm enough. look like i will go front 8.5" 30 offset with 235 to give it more aggressive look. Rear 38/40 offset with 275/285 to give me more traction. Currently i'm running 8.5" rear with 255 federal rsr and is very close to flush with the guard. Just had a look, it seems like about an inch on the inside. do you think 275/285 is possible?

SliverS2: in your opinion which is better setting where minimal or no body work in the options i have available? note that the car is sitting 345mm from center to arch so that it's not low, about 25-30mm lower than stock height. available option 1. Front 8.5" 25 offset with 235wide rubber, Rear 9.5" 30 offset with 275-285 wide rubber - rolling guard to F & R needed? hits strut? available option 2. Front 8.5" 40 offset 235wide rubber, Rear 9.5" 40 offset 275-285wide rubber - rolling guard not needed? hits strut? available option 3. Front 8.5" 30 offset 235wide rubber, Rear 9.5" 38 offset 275-285wide rubber - rolling guard not needed? hits strut? Thanks for your help.

both front and rear? rolling guard or have to flare? Also if i'm going with +40 offset for 8.5" Front & 9.5 Rear, would it help and not touching the coil over? Thanks