Henros

Spray paint?

Here's how my mate did it: on the MX6, the trims are mounted on aluminium panels, then onto the doors. He took off the panels, cut some new fabric and glued them onto the original trims with contact adhesive. The edges were folded back and the new trims went back onto the doors. Now I'm not sure how the trims are installed on the Skyline, so you'll have to fiddle and see.

Nice CFRP bonnet under that @ss...

Dude, just go to Lincraft, buy some nice felt in the colour you want and do it yourself. A friend of mine has done it in his MX6, it's not that hard.

Dude, I've never seen this fan run on my 'line either. I guess it might be temperature triggered. You may need to run the aircon for a while before it comes on. This reminds me, I need to regas my aircon before the next summer comes....

Max dude, sue the frigging compliance engineer. If you can prove that the car was complianced with the dodgy bumper (ie. you didn't put it on yourself), I think this is definitely a case of negligence - the complaince engineer has breached his duty of care by signing off a car that did not pass ADR. The consequence was clearly foreseeable. However, you may not be able to recover full cost due to contributory negligence on your behalf, since you caused the accident. Whatever happens, good luck dude.

Don't know. But you should also be able to increase the boost by changing to a stiffer spring, although that might be a complicated operation.

Just another pic to explain why the restrictor actually helps to increase boost with the setup on an R33 gtst. Also, when the solenoid is closed (ie. no bleed), the restrictor provides a wastegate pressure delay and thus allowing boost to build up more quickly than if it were not there. The last diagram is a guess on why removing (a different) restrictor increases boost on the GTR, because of its different location. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Cheers.

The restrictor does exist on the R33 gtst. I found it on mine and my 'line is 100% stock. Attached is a pic looking into the hose. However, removing it had absolute NO positive effect on boost. I tried replacing the restrictor with a Festo neumatic flow control valve and found that as I CLOSED the valved, boost seemed to come on stronger at first (more spike). However, the result was unsatisfactory and I didn't go further because I was worried that I might blow the turbo if I inadvertently closed it completlely. I now have the Festo valve placed in parallel with the factory solenoid and the result is somewhat satisfactory.

Hi Guys, Due to an unfortunate parking incident, my front bumper now has a little chip, small (about 10mm x 5mm) but quite obvious (pic attached). I have tried to repair it myself with touch up paint, but that didn't turn out too well, both because of the slight colour missmatch of the paint and my lack of patience. What's more, I managed to make it worse by using 800 grit sand paper around the damaged area, adding a few more scratches as well as taking away the shine. Now, is there anything I can do to remedy the situation myself? Would a clear coat help? How much would it cost to have it repaired by a professional? Thanks.

I once saw 2 unmarked cop cars dragging each other on the Hume Hwy...

Unfortunately, I don't know where the factory central locking controller is (near passenger side kick panel maybe?), as I put in an additional controller (2 relays) when I installed my driver side door lock actuator along with the alarm. Someone here must know. Since your alarm module is in the engine bay, maybe the heat has something to do with it. Check for dry solder joints. Good luck.

Assuming you are talking about compressor isentropic efficiency, eff_c = (T'a - Tb)/(Ta - Tb) eff_c => Compressor isentropic efficiency T'a => Ideal temperature after compression Ta => Actual temperature after compression Tb => Temperature before compression Therefore, if the compressor efficiency increases from 76% to 78%, the RISE (not absolute) in temperature aross the compressor will DROP by 2.6%.

There is only one door lock actuator. Unlocking is achieved by simply reversing the polarity of the power going into motor as compared to locking. Therefore, the fact that you can still lock means the motor is ok. Your problem is either with the alarm, ie. no unlock signal going into the central locking controller, or one of the relays in the central locking controller itself. You should also check that all the wirings are ok.

Most likely cause of all those problems is the incorrect connection of the illumination wire (eg, shorting to ground) during stereo installation. Check fuses in boot next to the battery (R33). However, before you replace the blown fuse, be sure to rectify the wiring problem, otherwise the fuse will just keep blowing.

How about a big illuminated sign saying "BACK OFF F**KHEAD"

Yep, R33's speedos are electrical.

I bought this RC R34 model for US$45 from http://www.toyeast.com/ It's got a digital proportional radio control system for both steering and throttle, as well as head and tail lights. I changed the stock amber headlight LEDs to white ones.

It's the brightness adjustment knob for the dash instrument illumination, an aftermarket installation as part of compliance. Personally, I think it's a bit of a joke, as the skyline dash illumination is dark enough as it is...

Jet-33, the upto 20 million property damage 3rd party will cover is for other people's properties you damage. 3rd party will not pay to fix up your car. Therefore, the maximum risk of getting 3rd party instead of comprehensive is the market value of your car in the case of a total write-off in an accident which you cause.

3rd Party will cover property damage upto 10/20 million as a result of the driver's fault. The 5k or so limit is for theft, not property damage. Some 3rd party policies(like mine - suncorp) do not even cover theft. On the issue of radio vs GPS, don't all tracking systems use radio waves? GPS uses radio waves too, just at a much higher frequency, which is why they do not go through buildings.

Dude, check the resistance of the motor with your multimeter. If it's open circuit, then the motor's definitely had it. You might want to take the motor apart and have a look though if that is practical. If the coils are not burnt (again, verify with multimeter), you may be able to restore it with a little cleaning and greasing.

Power: Gear changes at higher RPM. Snow: Car takes off in second gear to avoid excessive wheel spin on slippery surfaces.

At the ECU me thinks.

Good things come in small packages.