JasonO

Sorry about the quality of the picture, but you can clearly see the restrictor sitting in the housing. It is closed onthe bottom and feeds oil through one port about 1.2mm dia. on the side. Hope this helps B-Man

Every now and again I get it right :headspin:

Kinda like this, but don't use the alternator, put it around the water pump housing so not to damage anything. More details are on RonS' site, www.skylinegts.co.uk

Dave, Get yourself about 1 meter of 10mm blue nylon (plypropylene) rope, fold it in two and pass the two ends through the loop so you have a choker. Place the choker end around the crank pulley where one of the belts go, and knock it down tight so it pulls against the direction you are trying to run the nut. It should be pulling back against itself so as to always be tightening against you. Take the two loose ends, and make a double hitch around the water pump housing. Get your breaker bar, and marvel at how easily it comes undone

I have been told that you can use one large resistor on the common ground line rather than 6 individual ones. This would save on wiring and allow you to use a physically larger (higher power disipation) resistor. Do not use a wire wound resistor. :Bang:

Stu, The sensor in the CAT housing, or bypass pipe is only to detect the temperature of the CAT, it has no effect on the ignition or fuelling. I think the ECU (The APEXi PFC does) adjusts timing and fuelling at warm up based upon the water temp sensor. Hope this helps.

Hmmm, I seem to recall that my HKS GT3037 has a restirctor actually in the oilway, rather than a bolt in restrictor like in your picture above..... I will double check in the morning, as it's still in it's box in the corner of the workshop.

Errr I meant to say, Your plumbing looks right enough, but I'd have kept the PCV line as is

I may be wrong, but....... Surely if it's plumbed back to the PCV inlet to the plenum, then when the turbo comes on boost, the plenum will be under pressure and so the return line to the catch tank will be pressurised which will feed back to the cam covers, which is bad...... ....So you'd think that using the PCV valve in the return to the plenum the cam covers wouldn't be pressurised, however...... ....the PCV valve is too strong to be opened by the returning fumes from the catch can, else there'd be no need for a catch can as everything would be sorted by the PCV valve in the first place, and we wouldn't have all this oily mess to clean up I think it needs to return to the inlet piping, before the turbo so that the negative pressure in front of the turbo acts as a vacum for the outlet from the catch tank.

Have you checked the timing ? There's no gaurantee that the CAS pickup on the RB20 / RB26 cams is in the exact same location. Get yourself a timing lamp.

Come on Mario,Stop teasing us, give us some details

Errr, I'm running a PFC the same as Steve, so one of them has to be doing the wrong thing ...... .....Now I'm just confused

Steve, From memory.......Mine used to swing between 0V and 0.89V at idle, and on cruise. It's a narrow band sensor, so it won't really have a good resolution and it will mostly show either all the way rich or lean, only stabilising when the mixture is stoich. (not sure if I'm making the best sense with that description though, but it is nearly 4am :coffee: ) It should defo swing at idle though, so somethings not right.........

Really ?I'd love more details of this, if you have them or can point to where I can find out about it it'd be really appreciated. Robo, It's normal on the RB25 as the engine doesn't have an intake temp sensor like the RB26

LW, Did you follow the links I posted back here, about the HKS Ti Drag system ? It works a treat, but it's different from the other HKS Ti systems, many of them only have a Ti ail pipe.

I am under the impression that the ECU returns to Closed Loop operation at idle, am I wrong ?

Steve, All this closed loop stuff, have you tried switching it off to see if it imporves your idle problem..... Sorry, Off-Topic I know, but here's my reason for putting it here....... I have found that when setting up idle speed on the PFC, it's worth switching off the closed loop operation, and adjusting for a stoich mixture, then when you switch closed loop back on, the ECU doesn't need to do over time trying to control the mixture, which can in turn cause idle instability (too lean - too fast, too rich - too slow) even before hte AAC kicks in.

I've managed nearly 400Nm peak holding 370Nm to 6krpm, on the stock turbo. So I can see no reason not to get 450-500Nm with a large turbo and the right support

Steve, I've checked the RB25 FC Datalogit for you, and there are no extra options in the Rev/Idle menu, only the same as on the hand commander.

Steve, Have you tried making adjustments in the menu where the rev limiter is, you can adjust the idle speed with AC load on the engine. It may help to lower the base idle speed slightly. Are you aware that there is a routine to follow after initially installing the PFC which self learns idle parameters. Plug in the PFC, start the engine, idle with no load for 10 minutes, then with AC on for 10 minutes, then rear screen demister (I'd add headlights too) on for 10 minutes. Then drive for 10 minutes, switch off and idle characteristics should all be 'learned'. I think this routine can be followed at any time after installing the PFC, you'll just need a spare 40 minutes, and something to read while you wait

Steve, Top Result Guys, I made the change from a NISMO 80mm performance system to a HKS Ti Drag System, and managed to dyno the before and after. I was running the stock turbine, and the results can be seen over on the www.gtr.co.uk forums. Some details of the exhaust system here and the dyno graphs are here

Don't use a screw, use the little black lid bit out of the top of an old style BIC Biro. Does the same job, fits the hole like it's made for it, and can be removed without having buggered up the OEM BOV

Errr, you are having a joke :Oops:White smoke form your exhaust, suggest moisture, nothing else. Where that moisture is coming from is the source of the problem, and not necesarily the pistons.

Cameron,If there was a huge fault in the RB25 inlet manifold design, then surely they would have changed the design of the inlet manifold on the RB25DET NEO used in the R34GTT. More importantly, the RB26DETT was not developed from the RB25DET. Please stop comparing RB25 / RB26 designs as this is a sure fire way of confusing everyone. Even yourself it seems

Can I advise you to pay little attention to what Cameron is posting in this thread and follow the advice of others.Cameron, Please don't be insulted by my comment above, my only intention is to ensure that Guilty gets relevant advice to his initial question.