X-Modcarz

Please guys don't get me wrong here, by mods I meant anything from the smallest to the wildest. Even little things like FM Band Expander count.

I am working away from home at the moment and have not been able to take any pics. Rest assured, I will be getting some pics uploaded soon. Its nothing flash, just an everyday 250GT in silver with no extras, and the fugly 16 inch wheels on as well. Seeing the pics of some of the G35s on the US forums surely gets my juices flowing. Some of them look awesome. Any mods anyone???

Also, guys from Auckland - I was thinking we should organise a small meet up. What say you guys?

All the best matey, I am following your progress.

Does anyone know how different the front grills on the coupe and sedan are to each other in terms of fitment? It seems obvious from photos that the top section is rather curved upwards in the coupe grill and the sedan grill is arched downwards on the top. Does anyone know if the lower portion of the coupe grill fits the sedan at all? I am asking this so I can buy the coupe grill off ebay, modify the top to fit my sedan. And no, the mesh grill I am looking at on Ebay isn't available for the sedan at all. Anyone? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INFINITI-G-...sQ5fAccessories

Ok, guys here goes. Got in there with a lot of brakeclean, rags wrapped around screw driver and a good compressor. Took a very long time to get most of it out, I did my best. Then cleaned the plenums, the lowest end block and throttle body. I did the cylinder head chambers first so when I cleaned the other parts, it could dry out good. I used a hack lot of compressed air to get the shit out plus any vapours. Fitted all together, biting my lips all along. The exhaust flange bolts are officially the most *%$#*@ed of the lot and you need Jap. finger to reach and align them. I did not block the flange as my GF will have the fits if and when an engine light starts flicking. Ok, time to start. Left the air filter out and sprayed a tiny bit of engine start in it. Did the throttle position learning as well before starting just to ensure all is done right the first time. Took me 2.5hrs to get all off and about 4 hours to get it all together. 40 mins of the 4 hours was spent on one exhaust bolt - *%&$# piece of %^#&* She started in the first pop and hummed away. I was very pleased and let out a sigh of relief. Have driven it for 50kms now and all is running smooth. Made a heck lot of difference in pickup and go and catches up quite quickly on the top end. All in all, I am happy. Thanks to info in this thread by you helpful lot. Cheers guys. (PS - sorry no pics as the family camera was not in working order)

Well, I have pulled it apart and it ain't pretty at all. Thats probably because cars done 162000kms already and never ever been opened. I have pulled out the upper and lower large plenum. I also had to pull out the lower block that goes under the lower large plenum. The chambers going to the cylinders are also filled with gunk. I am planning to wipe as much as possible with cloth dipped in brakeclean wrapped around a screwdriver. This means that some of the gunk will go into the cylinder. Now I am not happy with that but I don't have a choice. I will take the spark plug out and try and use a compressor to blow the gunk out as much as possible. Let me know what you guys think about me doing this? Ok, I just scrolled up and saw the pics Chad posted. Mine is exactly like that. So I will just have to bite the bullet and clean it out. I have only driven the car for 50kms now and felt it was slow off the mark from a stand still but picked up speed as it accelerated. Am keen to know if this makes a difference.

Thanks guys, will keep in touch. Still taking baby steps so will post pics and info as I learn how to. Cheers guys. Always keen.

Doing the intake, plenum and AFM clean this weekend guys, together with an oil/filter change. Wish me luck.

Hi Guys, Am from Auckland and a 250GT 4-door sedan owner having bought the car only 2 days ago. Will be keen to keep in touch. Cheers

Glass - use Cut & Polish or some buffing cutting compound and polish it off with a cloth. Will take some time and energy but works a treat everytime. Between Badges - screw driver wrapped in cloth, use cut and polish to clean. I did and it worked. If you are as finicky as I am you will get to the real hard bits and come out clean. Be careful to check the end of screwdriver often to make sure the metal hasn't pierced through the cloth. Good luck. I did the same on my R34 gtr.

Pics please, I am interested in the oil restricter.

Is there such a thing as adhesive backed c/f cloth? I am really new to this.

If thats the case, then I suggest it shouldn't be boldly advertised here for the general public. General public prices (eg - Nengun prices) for us everyday folk please.

If this is orginal Mines product, could you possibly get me a set now at that price? Wouldn't mind comparing the real thing with what we have here.

All future replies, if you cannot give a definte answer to my question then please do not reply. I don't have time to make cheap copies for the market and agree that MOST(90%) times it is better to buy from the big name company from Japan, at times it is really hard to justify the prices.

Where is it available for $250 delivered, let me know? Nengun have it for sale at $258USD, then there is freight.

Remember curiosty killed the cat, not copying just trying to figure out the ones we have here are copies or originals. We have checked the pic you have uploaded and discussed it through. I feel the A plate cannot go through B as this will close the front end off and no oil or vapour will pass through as shown in the right top illustration in the pic above and also making any part, ie the small open ended rectangular spout, beyond the A plate would be deemed useless and not required. Care to elaborate.

Has anyone here seen these and can tell me for sure if a) the plates marked "A" here go through the rectangular section marked "B" or b) are the "A" plates just welded around the "B" rect. section?

Can you tell me which type of the DBA series rotors they are and some pics please? I am interested.

Dude I told the lottery that it was my turn but they said to wait a bit longer. If you haven't realised, the carbon parts aren't cheap. Plus will be a good skill to learn.

Now I know that a lot of bodykit parts are done this way but my question is is it possible to go back to a fibre glass part and lay carbon fibre on it at a later stage? If yes, does anyone here know for sure what is involved, steps we should take to get a good finish, time for setting, clear coat layer(s), etc? Say the part is a side-skirt, is off the car and in primed state with no paint on.

I have genuine front guards and bonnet, both alloy factory originals(OEM). Am in NZ though. Boths guards $550 pair, bonnet $1000, all in NZD. All are in very good condition.

All sorted. Can someone please close this thread, thanks.

Ok, thanks.