aerofocker

i know its an old thread but did you ever check your woorough key and the harmonic ballancer rubber part for slippage? i hate unsolved problems!

im not saying momentary oil pressure loss is normal or ok,oil pressure loss can happen any set up,things break,pipes burst pressure relief valves can stick especially after rebuild,murphys law! and ive never seen det from fuel cut either but id still prefer to kill the spark or maybe both,break the cas signal ect,hey i duno just ideas its gona be done anyway,i just hope my n1 holds till then!

were both valves fully shut?

if you loose oil pressure even momentarily under heavy load-(like the way we all drive) you will do EXPENSIVE damage, those pistons go up and down approxo 80 times a second thats 20 power strokes to the bearing without oil in one second. you will walk

im looking at doing somthing like this myself mainly because i run an n1 oil pump and im a bit worried, probably best to kill the spark as killing the fuel will momentarily run it lean which aint a great idea, as previously stated you will need an override switch for start up and it would also be useful for a case in which the switch malfunctioned .who honestly has time to look at gauges when driving hard?i know i have enough going on just to keep the damn thing between the hedges

in this case it could be a combination of a cell with high advance hot weather and maybe not the finest fuel,all speculation till you, retard the timming on the hand controller and give it a blast,if the det goes away,its likely the det was not erroneous and somthing needs fairly prompt attention,700 bhp is a fair few ponies and the thing is always going to want to det at that power

hot weather,cold weather,pissing rain the engine shouldnt knock over 25 on a power fc.det leads to walking

have you seen this with your own eyes? im a real mechanic, im not pretending or making things up, im telling you that i have never seen melted valves on a modern engine,a warped head or det caused by fitting a silencer in the exhaust,maybe you think you know more than you do? after all you dont know what you dont know

check your afr with a wideband. have you got oil in your intercooler pipes,eg turbo leaking oil?How is engine blow by? does it idle nice? oil in the charge will increse the engines tendency to det,so will a cracked ringland.......... has the vacume feed to you fpr came off? has the cas been moved recently? is there somthing loose or tapping in the engine bay?possible carbopn depposits in the combustion chamber? the bad news is if knok gets less when less boost is being applied,then it probably is real and unless you have forged pistons and even then you are going to damage your engine if you keep driving it with this knock. hows you fuel pressure?

If you put a silencer in, you are effectively making the exhaust what, 2" maybe less? (depending on outlet size). If you then intend to even ATTEMPT to put your foot down you are going to do some severe overall damage without question. That much backpressure with turbo's that flow that much is never going to end pretty tell me about this severe overall damage? the car will be laggy and lose loads of power all over the range and retain heat in the general exhaust area fair enough. I want to know what dammage you speak of?

thank god at last sombody not just talking shit on the internet! another clasic full of shit thread thanks lads! i agree with guilt toy by the way,unless its like a 1 inch exhaust you may meld somthing due to heat restriction!

well im a mechanic and high compression has never been an indication of a cracked ringland in my expierence, high blow by,increeced knock and uneven idle are the usual indication

it wont fire without a spark kid.but it will soak the cylinders in fuel,just take the cas plug off

just wondering why/how +175psi could mean a ringland?

security.are you a mechanic?

i often wonder if the gallery bores are sufficent to suply that kind of flow at such high rpm,the pressure indication means sweet toss all if the film is still getting broken down due to rpm film thinning and the oil port on the crank being unable to supply the required flow?

i could not see this affecting performance soo much,unlightly to have any baring on peak power,just spool and i dont even think it would be that much, work out the firing order and see

well the big end bearing can realy only contact the crank surface when the protective oil film has broken down,this can be caused by lack of oil pressure supply to the bearing in question, extreme detonation or abbrasive particles in the oil, i believe 8krpm is well high enough but each to their own, crank specific harmonic dampers become very important on straight sixes at high rpm,the bent crank clearly indicated a problem! i would be very interested to see the cause of the failure,best of luck

by vasso you mean vaseline? oil would be fine, crank it with no plugs in get pressure and off you go,maybe if you used vaseline i think its too thick,maybe vasso is somthing else, remove the plugs anyway and crank the engine some more-provided you put plenty oil on the bearings in the first place!

replace them as a matter of course if you have the engine out.

im serious, i hate lag on street,have the mooney time and tools to do the job plus we run a garage and i will use the car as a test bed to make up kits for other customers

ya myt need a compressor too!

knippex for all the pliars and snips ect, some 3/8 universal joint sockets,snap on for the torque wrenches if you can if not britool next down the line! snap on for screwdrivers,nice 3/8 speedbrace,1/4 air ratchet die grinder(cheap as you like) snap on for sockets and 1/4 ratchets again if you can 1/2 '' breaker bar not too cheap but no need for strap on,and a good battery drill and a set of metric taps!

wiell it aint a whole load better than the standard rebuilt turbo i had previously installed which was good for around 400bhp,there is definatly more go in this and i like the vband rear dump, i think il get a 3076r turbo and set it up with a v band discharge and alternate between the two 76 for track 71 for street

sounds like you didnt tighten the plastic locking ring properly oe else you have pinched a hose in that area