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Posts posted by JZP
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Spark plugs (cracked) caused revving problem and wrong injector seals caused similar symptoms for me. Took ages to diagnose and lots of swearing.
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Ballpark $$ on the Motec setup?
Edit: just googled it... nice bit of kit
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Skyline R33 GTST Series 1 rolling chassisBody and chassis rails quite straight, wine red in colour, paintwork not so good (previous owner rubbed it back, started prepping for paint job and left it)No engine, suspension, drivers seat, bonnet or front bumper/associated parts on the front. You get what's in the pictures.Heaps of spare bits and pieces. You can also have the auto trans it had. Great candidate for track car projectI'm in Kinglake Victoria, pickup obviously!Price: $600Contact: PM or call 0401 994746
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Very interesting. Watching the EV industry to see what after market industry springs up. I expect adoption of EV to happen very quickly for suburban commuting, as the dumbing down of drivers continues.Nothing to do with my car....but this is an interesting idea: http://smh.drive.com.au/motor-news/formula-ones-electric-rival-20130516-2jp0h.html
I like where you're going with your build. Keen to see where it takes you.
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Looks so purrrrrdy
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You get what you pay for
Geez!
I DID buy from a reputable sponsor of this forum! Only through research and quite a bit of homework did i learn of this need.
... try provide some friendly advice ....
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Freddy plenum with Q45 TB..500$$.
vs
Plazman and TB 2000$
I know which i would choose
I discovered the hard way with the Freddy that you need to get the face machined flat before installation.... coolant coming out of the exhaust is not good. Lots of stress and thought the engine was fkd.
I tried 2 of them with similar results till I machined it and problems went away... so if you Freddy it, just make sure it is machined flat!!
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That Cruiser looks like it could tow two trailers, should have no problems there.
As for trailers, buy mine http://www.my105.com/tabid/65/id/9996/default.aspx There are lots of traps in buying a cheapie, one of the most common is you get used wheels and used car tyres. Always use light truck tyres, Sunrasia wheels have heavy duty rims. Tightarse mate blew a used car tyre just the other day and has damaged rims on potholes, true story.
Nice simple lightweight trailer.
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Thanks for the info! Due to the cost of the tow car the trailer budget is pretty low so no fancy ones for me....
The car has an electronic brake controller but i dont understand how it works on the trailer itself?
The tow car has roof cage which will help with storage too!
The controller basically sends power (activated by your brakes) to the electric trailer brakes. Depending on type they have an adjustment to vary trailer power.
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If you can't afford the fancy shmansy airbag trailers, just make sure the ramps are attached to the rear and just fold down. Obviously make sure it is rated for your car weight, etc, etc.
It's a pain at the end of the day rooting around with ramps when all you want to do is get out of there.
Oh yeah, somewhere to store tyres and Jerry cans would be good. Electric brakes are good but you're limited to a car that has a controller installed, so just make sure you choose the right braking system.
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I've connected the thermostat housing to the rear of the block rather than just plugging them.
Yep I've done that thx.
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This is a S15 road car mainly that goes to track, and similar layout to Skylines.
Thanks for posting up pic good for ideas
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Also I suggest mounting the oil cooler down in the front left corner. Ducting or partitioning it works even better, as it forces air through the oil cooler. Even if smaller and on an angle I think it is better to locate there, as more efficient without effecting air flow through the intercooler and radiator, even more so if the car runs a condensor for the a/c..
Hey mate, no A/C! ...because race car!
Yeah, planned to duct it somehow.
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switch to the rb20 or even better stagea oil filter mount. they both remove the factory oil/water cooler. the stagea one is better because it angles the filter at a more convenient angle. Or go RB30 style and bolt a filter (or sandwich plate) direct to the block.
It is not a good thing in a track car because:
* You can never clean it out if you spin a bearing, and they are hundreds to replace from Nissan
* They basically keep water temp and oil temp similar. So yes they warm the oil when cold (because water warms up first), but if your water is hot it will be heating, not cooling your oil
* Common failure point to leak water into oil or vice versa
* Complex, take up space, hard to fit and remove.
Good points Duncan. As usual valuable input.
Will investigate the RB20/Stagea mounts.
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Ok next question, would the high flow pump be too much for rb25det?
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Hey, dumb question - are the rb25 and rb26 oil pumps interchangeable?
I have a high flow oil pump left over from my GTR and was wondering if it could be installed in my R33 GTST track car.
My guess is no, but would like to confirm before I start pulling the car apart.
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http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=E1s-L1QMdAo&sns=em&desktop_uri=/watch?v=E1s-L1QMdAo&sns=em
Sorry for not linking properly...posting off iPhone haha
That looks hella fun.
Should get the mrs mx5 on the track
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Damo grabbed for the roll cage just near where the horses are running around. It's the first time in 3 years I've seen him flinch, but it didn't stop him from being on the $$. Pressure was on that stage, and I think we ended up 3rd fastest outright on it.
Stellar bit of driving and navigation. Those shite roads!
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Double check how you're doing the test.
Otherwise it is not a good sign.
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Hey Guys, anyone know of any good 80 Series or GQ patrol Diesal for sale? I've been searching for a while and looking back through this thread it looks like i am on the right track...
The 80 series we test drove on the weekend was nice and clean, 288km with a lot of extras, asking price is $15k which i was planning too offer $13.5ish.... It seemed really slow though, i know its a big wagon and i know its N/A but does anyone have any feedback on this? It seemed to slow on hills which is going to be worse with my fat ass 34 behind it...
I had one, and because of it - I'll never buy an old toyota again. All the major components (heads, diffs, transmission, etc) needed work at some time or another - then problems with the electrics pushed me over the edge.
If it's petrol one you looked at, that is quite expensive to pay (depends what options are on it). It will be very expensive to keep running in fuel costs. If it's a slug now - it will only feel slower the longer you own it.
There is lots of wear an tear on a car of that many k's. double check what's been done on it - cos most of the driveline will be worn.
Don't listen to me - I'm just scarred from the previous experience!
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Ummmm, I'd probably install one of the millions of readily available oil to air cooler kits that are available.
Some also come with a remote oil filter mount, making it easier to change your oil.
So, as far as bypassing the heater hoses & whole silver circular thing there are no special considerations for plumbing from the thermo housing to the back of the block?
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Hey guys, thought this would be better in motorsport section.
Long story short, engine is out of the track car (big end bearing).
While it's out, I've looked at the standard water/oil cooler spaghetti and would like to clean it up & remove what's not needed. Possibly bypass/remove the whole lot (heater hoses, etc).
Obviously I need to keep the water lines to the turbo, but it seems the rest is useful for a regular road car, but no use on a track car.
I have some thoughts, but wanted to know what NEEDS to stay there for a track car, knowing it is going to stay at high RPM's and get hot.
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wondering if u still have the lights, if so can u post them.
Yep, PM sent
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Nope. That would be something.
265 A050 mediums and weight taken out of the car.
1.31
Awesome time
Richos R33 Gtst
in Motorsport Builds
Posted
Saw a bit of Richo driving on Speedweek - covering Vic Drift.
Props to Richo!