The Mafia

sold..

I'm also interested in another set. Are they still offering at this price?

sorry mate but there is no chance it will make 350rwkw. They aren't big enough. And they certainly won't do that with a 0.5 cover.

Item: R32\R33 GTR PowerFC and Handcontroller. I also have an adapter to make it work with your RB25 or RB20. (so no need to go and buy an expensive AP engineering one..) Location: Mackay, QLD, Australia Condition: Looks like new, working 150%. Price: $950 ($50 extra if you want the adapter) Postage: Well, I can registered post it (i'd prefer to do that for insurance purposes) Here's a video of it running in my car via the RB25 adapter loom. http://users.on.net/pacey/powerfc.wmv Reason for sale: Bought it thinking it was a Powerfc pro. Even though it has the stickering, its only a Standard powerfc. It works 100% though as I've been driving around with it running my car for almost a week now. contact? PM me or post here will be fine. I don't get home until 5:40pm though.

f**ken excellent guide. Full respect to the guy that made it.

or you could get your RB25 one extrusion honed at UAS - $500 though. Thats a good start if you plan on going a big turbo

have a read of my adventure - 300rwkw with standard internals. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=167572&hl=

hey, already been for a drive. Can runs like the standard RB25 powerfc. Just not quite tune perfected as the other one because I have spent much more time getting the tune spot on. The only thing missing on my RB25 is the NVCS though - but I haven't been pushing it to notice it yet

well, the Powerfc and hand controller cost me $1100, and the loom $50 so $1150 plus post and its all yours \ anybody's I just want to get my money back. but just remember, you need a tuner with a Datalogit or they won't be able to do it! I just spoke to cubes and I won't be able to do it from here unless I have a RB20. (I have a RB25) If you have a RB25, thats another story. Mine *should* work and start - but I still recommend having someone with a datalogit near. Its running my car right now though, and I will be driving to work with it tomorrow lol.

well, as I said up there - I have a perfectly good PowerFC to suit a R33\R32 GTR that I thought was a pro, and isn't. Works perfectly, as I have been using it in my car and driving around with a light tune lol. Its also configured to work also, and if you give me a heads up, I can load your data into it before I send it so that you can plug it in and drive to your tuner with it Just let me know everyone - I'll post a for sale thread at some stage. Oh, and Its ready to go into an overnight bag, so you'd get it really fast

Item: Standard R33 Turbo - Excellent condition, no shaft play, wheels are perfect. Location: North QLD Price: $300 Turbo has everything - Elbow, Oil drain, etc. Can Throw in a factory dump if you like too. Buyer pays postage. Will not separate the eblow...

just letting everyone know that I was successful in getting my GTR Powerfc to work in my RB25. I even gave it a bit of a tune. This means it will work 100% for the RB20. Its up for sale too by the way so if you're interested, just let me know. Even if you want it just for a R32 \ R33 GTR.

to all of those people supporting the 255lph walboro pump - they are shit. You need to get the Walboro 255lhp HP version. The high pressure version handles pressure a lot better than the standard 255 one. The standard one is for a NA car. And I Don't care what you all say - I have one, and I have seen what they do. As soon as you up the boost beyond 10psi, you are playing with fire. The pump can't handle pressures above 50psi very well at all. Standard fuel rail pressure - 42psi + Boost (10psi) = 52psi. As soon as this pump reaches 55psi - 60psi, the flow drops dramatically. Have a look at the Blue line on this flow chart -

I have a jaycar controller sitting right here. I'm going to get my engineer mate to have a look, and modify it to work for me how I want it to

I'd probably lose about 30rwkw - 40rwkw. I'd hae to take at LEAST 10 degrees timing out. If I get some time on the dyno, I'll disconnect the system and pull timing out and do a run.

can someone move this thread back to FI please?

lol they are my emails to paul this morning

exactly. You could put a 700hp pump in your tank, but the factory FPR is always only going to let the injectors see 42psi - the factory fuel pressure. Then you adjust the powerfc to suit. If this tuner is saying that your pump is too big, then he should not be tuning cars at all. And as I said before, he's only taking -22 units out? I take HEAPS more out to get my afrs up to 12.5:1 And f**k me, he wants you to put a adjustable FPR on so that he can f**k it up some more? Holy shit, he doesn't even know how a factory one works, how the f**k is he going to get a Aftermarket one working? ahahahah what a loser. I'm biased hey? Take a print out of my Dyno run to him - tell him to shove it up his ass.

paul may be canning it, but I am going to continue with it.

oh, and can you move this back to the forced induction section so that we make pick up from where you left off?

hhmmm. So close. paul, are you able to post up what I emailed to you today as a reference, I don't have a copy anymore. Just about the bridging of the two fuel pump signals and my explaination.

that is the biggest crokc of shit ever. The standard regulator is FINE! I run 300rwkw with mine! As long at your rail has a constant 42psi then there is nothing wrng with it. And -22? I have taken well over 50 - 70 off some of my load points! this guy is a f**king dipshit. I don't work for a shop, and it seems like I can tune better...

I'm with nismoid when he comments about the FPR. "Upgrading" it is a complet load of shit. I'm running 300rwkw with the factory FPR, and its still got more to go. Ditch the tuner, and get some money back.

sooo. what ECU are you running? If factory, don't go over 10psi..

I'll race you both http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=167572