The Mafia

holy shit, a 1.06a\r rear on a 2.5l motor? Did it come onto boost at about 9,000rpm? lol

Screamers are a cop magnet. I'd get it plumbed back man. Hurry up and get the dyno sheet up too! oh, and the CHRA number on the turbo as Dale FZ1 said. I want to see what sort of turbo it is.

Nissan Dealer? I get all my gaskets at a damn good price, and usually overnight.

can you provide more of a closeup of the rim? Thanks

do you still have this?

I ran a 13.6 at 105mph. 12.9 is definately achievable.

thats a poor config... Try - FMIC Kit High Flow Turbo Injectors ECU Fuel Pump Full Exhaust including a High Flow cat Decent Suspension Tune

I've been there and done that with a Ground out RB25 Housing. All I can say is don't expect much more that 250rwkw.

My BOV flutters its ass off at above 10 psi. I have videos to prove it lol. But I also have it plumbed back into a 4 inch intake. (GT30r turbo)

I could get one laser cut on the cheap? I just need the GTR side (The GTR manifold pattern. If you trust me, you could send it to me, and I could get my boiley mate to take his 25 head there and get one laser cut? (he knows people and can get one done cheap)

I want one just so I have the throttle response. Let me know how you go looking for one of these adapters.

I run my factory BOV at 20psi and no problems. Will be some sort of restriction. You need to list your other mods for us to be of any help at all.

if its a genuine garrett cartridge then it will have an oil restrictor built in.

I also want to know the peak power, can you help Lithium? I'm definately ready to take the .82 husing off and drop the .63 on.

most likely $1400 if a bush bearing and $1900 if its a ball bearing unit.

can't tune a factory ecu amte. Need a powerfc or something tunable. 14psi wil kill a stock turbo, intercooler no good for over 10psi, and fuel pump needs to be changed. Anything 12psi and over = rich and retard... You'll lose about 40rwkw like this.

sucks to be him lol This should make about 250rwkw on a RB25

If you have a AFM orientated car, then you need a plumb back full stop. Do I even need to explain it? AFM Measures the air, and then your stupid Vent to atmosphere BOV wastes that measured air when it is not supposed to. Engine thinks air is going in, so it adds fue. Fuel gets there, and the only half the air does. (cause the other half went out the BOV) and the car stalls. Put the factory one on and stop trying to be a show off.

how much?

Of Course it does! An AFM backwards is a big no no. It would not work at all.

is this still for sale?

I've paid in full.

I've been meaning to update my thread about it, but to be honest with you, The old GT30 with a proper Garrett .63 housing would have done the trick. I'm a little disappointed at the extra lag, but it still goes well. I'm about 400rpm laggier now. The top end is definately better, but I think it could have been more? Maybe I was just expecting too much? Lol, I should have got a GT35 with a .63 housing. None the less, there was definately nothing wrong with that old 7 Blade GT30 I had. Made a lot more boost down low than the 6 blade wheel. Maybe because of the chopped up RB25 housing, wo knows. I'm still contemplating taking the .82 housing off and whacking a .63 on, just not sure what sort of Top end I am going to miss out on.

I just grabbed a GT3076 (Branded a GT3037) Goes pretty good. 6 Blade compressor, 56 trim, and a 84 trim turbine. The Compressor housing is a .6 port shrouded cover, and the turbine housing is a .82 garret IW housing. Most of the action happens after 3500rpm, with the full 18psi - 20psi hitting at about 4000rpm. If you want less lag, and a little less top end, get the .63 IW rear. Whistles like a jet engine too.

here are the seat pictures of them fitted. http://www.users.on.net/~pacey/seats/seats.htm