The Mafia

oh and for what it is worth, I have been tuning cars since 2004. I know ECUs, fuel, injectors, boost, flow, etc.

this is all correct but incorrect at the same time. 1. Once the injectors hit 100%, what happens? Does extra fuel magically appear the keep making it rich? Nope, it leans. In a very bad way. 2. Does the ECU just keep pulling timing until the timing is zero, or even a negative? How does the ECU know when to pull timing? Does it just magically guess, or it waits for initial detonation then pulls? Here is a fact, the ECU will only pull about 6 degrees max. Not enough for some idiot with a T04Z trying to run stupid amounts of boost. 3. I haven't experienced the "complete fuel cut" It is still very much possible to put a big turbo on a standard ECU fitted car and blow it up. You're wrong if you think it is impossible. Seen it about 10 times personally, with a standard turbo.

No, I am just amazed at your stupidity, and clogging up SAU with this shit. Tell me, honestly, do you really think that 10psi frpm a stock Turbo is the same as 10psi from a T04Z? And do you even know about the rich and retard mechanism in the stock ECU? The retard bit definitely applies to you.

So why don't you just turn the stock turbo up to 18psi? AS you said, 18psi is exactly 18psi right? Why the need to upgrade? The factory Turbo will do 18psi. I'm not even going to waste my time, because if you think 10psi from a stock turbo is the same as 10psi from a T04Z, you are clearly a retard. "Its just physics mate"... And expecting a T04Z with a factory ECU to play nice. Very smart. Maybe add a Big ATMO BOV, an electric supercharger, and a Super Cap. That will fix the problem. Oh, and make sure when you run 18psi with the T04z, you still have the standard AFM. Its just a Meter, right? Awesome.

Actually, you are so very wrong. If 10psi from your stock turbo, is the same as 10psi from a T04Z, why did you upgrade? Its the same right? So no point in putting a bigger turbo on?

ummm, that is very bad advice... Seen plenty of cars die from Factory ECUs pinging, too much boost etc.

So you think that 10psi from a T04Z is the same as 10psi from a stock turbo? Good luck with the engine rebuild.

Unique problem? You mean poor setup problem? How can you expect a stock ECU to behave properly with all of that stuff bolted to the car? You won't fix this. Get a tunable ECU.

hhmm.. Symptoms. Car missfiring. Spark plus black and fouled, changing them fixed the problem. Then I see it has a BOV. Keep spending your money, spend thousands. I keep repeating myself. ATMO BOVs do this. They are just going to keep fouling your plugs and making your car fail. Why do people see the f**king need to put a BOV straight on these things where there is a perfect, NON constant leak one plumbed back and all neat and tidy. Don't say noise, because that just means you're a full on wanker.

actually, the stock AFM maxes out at about 180rwkw. I usually tune around it. And the factory ECU cannot do 210rwkw. A tuned Powerfc can. A stock ECU with 10psi can make about 160-170rwkw. WIth rich and retard hitting, about 100rwkw at 12psi+ Your boost is too high. This is clear and simple. With the factory ECU, Your car is hitting a rich and retard mechanism. This is your car telling you there is something wrong with the boost and to fix it. It is causing your car to cut out and do shit like that because its trying to stop you from blowing your engine and turbo. Wind to boost back to 10psi and your problems will go away. If not 10, then try 9. DO you even have an after market intercooler? This sounds exactly like the problem. 15psi is WAY too much for a stock turbo on a standard engine. You will blow it, turbo AND motor if you persist.

the leak down is pretty bad? My 100,000 old RB25DET engine that ran 200rwkw for about 2 years had 2% leak down across all 6.

I don't really care what anyone says - The facts are, if you use a ATMO BOV in a Air flow meter application, then its WRONG. The BOV will be so tight its not doing its job at all, so they are useless. Nissan made them plumb back for a reason. GTRs even. So don't try and justify an ATMO BOV. It is wrong in airflow metered induction systems.

Most BOVs need to be hooked up because the vacuum holds them shut. Clean your AAC valve and check the other. Also try new plugs. Don't waste your time with iridium crap, get coppers. BKR7E.

yeap, so you think. I often wonder how many retards will ever learn that a ATMO BOV is a BIG f**kING AIR LEAK in your intake system. When the car is under a little bit of load with the AC on, it pulls more vacuum, pulls the BOV open, leaks air, and you run as rich as f**k. You're wondering why you smell fuel. Its the BOV. There is a reason why they plumb back the factory Mitsubishi BOV. because it has a permanent leak, and the AFM measures this air and expects it to go into the engine. Not out your BOV. Putting on that BOV would have done absolutely nothing for you, except made you car sound like a wanker, stall, and over fuel. NExt time your coasting to a set of lights at about 3k. Push the clutch in. I bet the taco sinks like a stone and it stalls. I can guarantee that if you install the factory one back on, your problems will go away. Maybe after you change your already f**ked spark plugs. Can mods start banning anyone that posts "My car runs like shit, it has a ATMO BOV" threads please.. Sick of the absolute stupidity I read.

Let me guess, ATMO BOV?

Exhaust leak central Where is the stripped hole? Go and get a helicoil kit, and repair it. Its piss easy to do. Just make sure you have a practice somewhere if you haven't done it before. Also, you might even be able to do it where it is without taking the manifold off.

yeah, the bottom end is still in the car, and looking great, The bores look like they did when I got the block back from the machinist. I am going to check its flatness with a straight edge, and if its really f**ked, I'll pull it, if its good, then I'll slap a gasket on and whack the head back on. I admit, I should have had it decked when it was getting an acid bath and hone. Stupid of me, but I think the machinist did say it was fine, as they checked it. Will update you. I'm learning valuable lessons here when building a slapper - Don't cut corners too much. An extra $200 and you can have a perfect slapper build. (All for under $1,000).

none yet, I have the head off, just need to take it to the machine shop. Going to get the extra welding and get it surfaced.

+1 on the leakdown test. Compression tests don't really mean shit these days. This will tell you instantly if your rings are rooted.

I'm thinking an inlet manifold too. I'd look at getting yourself a greddy copy or something. Can be had from Autobarn for about $350. Don't buy ebay ones, they are shit, and you'll end up replacing it.

depends how long the pickup is. Mine sits almost that high. No issues.

Works fine for me, and always has. Punching in something and telling it to search some random area won't work. Plus we get asked the same questions, sometimes twice a day. It gets frustrating. When you pick up a phone book, do you ask the nearest person where the phone number is? Nope. You search. SAU is a phonebook for skylines. Search. No point in typing \ answering the same shit over and over again. Completely defeats the purpose of a forum.

Took me 15 seconds to search for and view. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/181826-how-to-greddy-style-plenum-install/page__hl__greddy+install+plenum Next time, have a search mate. Good luck.

Me with 500hp racing a 800hp Supra http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUmJcre9IuM My car on the dyno http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3A_6gF1McY

it was awesome. I had a 0.82 rear on it and didn't like the lag. Get the 0.63 rear with the slightly bigger internal gate on it, there is a special one you can get. Its still garret, you've just got to ask for it. I Was running 14psi, 16psi, 18psi, and 20psi without issues, but I recommend water meth injection for 18psi+ on this rear. It helps with the detonation. And f**k the response was good. with the WMI, I was lighting 1st, 2nd and 3rd, and fishtailing at 100\kmph when I knocked it back to third, and not even having to dump the clutch. Just rolling on the throttle gave it a kick in the ass. Just make sure you have a good tuner, and good support systems.