The Mafia

lol. Spending a lot of money on a RB20 is like rooting a fat chick. Seemed good at the time, but you regret it afterwards.

Mine was, I changed it with a Dayco, and no more noise. Quiet as a mouse. My opinion - Noise is bad. It means there is friction \ something not lining up right.

Cal, send me your dat file. I was thinking about the cruise.

I thought it went back to the fuel tank, and is a breather for the tank?

I'd be disappointed too to be honest. I'd be having a closer look at the tune to see what is going on. I'm here if you need me.

Those ebay greddy copies leak like a political secret.

I do Powerfc, Link, and Vipec. ANd on a weekend, because I am not a workshop. Can't do it on a dyno though, will need to be a street tune.

Not yet - I can't really afford to send it to the inspection crew just yet. Give me a week or two and I will send it down. Will definitely bump this post when I get some results.

oh shit, sorry mate didn't realise. I contacted my local supplier and they had them for me over night from brisbane. They were Hastings rings, and cost me about $100au. Maybe look for an australian hastings dealer up on the web and give them a call? Or you could order them through the parts place I got them from? I could even ask them and maybe get a set and send them to you?

Hi Everyone I managed to get it all together on the weekend and running. Plenty of Hylomar on the Head gasket (Whole can - 3 coats) and ARP studs done up nice and tight. I also re-torqued them this morning - Its surprising that you can feeling the tiniest difference in some. But all done up back to 81 foot pounds. After the exhaust port job, the car seems to gowl a lot more now. I'm loving it. So. There is my slapper. If you have a good head - Mine cost $700 to recondition, and this is what I had them do: - Cold Dip - re-cut valve seats - deck - 1 hour of porting on exhaust - valve heights checked - Valve Stem seals - welded VCT feed - welded water galley for more head gasket clamping area (it about 3mm un touched, now 8mm welded) - Drilled oil drains to 9.5mm As for the block: - New main and rod Bearings - New Rings - Acid Dip - hone - GET IT DECKED.... (Don't forget to like I did) Assemble and rock and roll. Here is a tip - Buy a crank collar for $80 and have it installed when they do the block. This all cost me around $1k. If you already have a good head, then half of that I think. Thanks to all that helped too - I was really lucky, I checked the deck flatness, and it wasn't out at all. I couldn't even get a 1 thou feeler guage under the straight edge. Whew. Hopefully not having a crank collar won't limit me. I've learnt a lot.

errmm... Go into any car parts shop in australia and ask them...? Thats what I did..

ok so I've got my head back on and everything seems pretty good so far. Good old 3.0L purring away. Been driving around a bit but the f**king battery dropped a cell. Left me on the side of the road. Won't buy century again, thats for sure. Its only 8 months old.

rofl at that!

not too bad, new valves and you are back in business. Just find a stuffed second hand head with good valves. Probably cost you about $300 (And the cost of valves) at a head re-conditioner. What are the tops of the pistons like?

dude.... 140rwkw and beyond is the rich and retard maps in the factory ECU. TUrn your boost up and I bet it hits this hole a whole lot earlier. Get a tunable ECU, its a known fact that the factory ECU is useless for anything above stock power. You are wasting your money trying to "fix" the factory ECU. Powerfc...

Hey mate - I'm already using 2 x washers. The head is finished finally! I am going to pick it up today and start getting it assembled again. Just need to put the manifolds on, and drop it back onto the block. I am going to check the block surface with a straight edge today and measure the clearances. Apparently 2 thou and under is ok. Really hope the block doesn't have to come out again.

lol @ cam bearings

You should triple all of your prices to be more realistic.

and people think if they keep whinging to the government saying they want a track for drifting or imports it might happen. Well, they are kidding themselves. The labor government is f**king useless and has already pulled up more debt than they can afford. Plus, they don't build tracks for what they call "hoons" and "drifters". The only way to make it happen is to try and convince mining companies that have big bucks, that building a race track here is a good idea for bigger things. I've already suggested that getting V8 supercars here is the only way. You think they'll build a track just for some import lovers? Or do you think that saying things like "Rio Tinto V8 supercars round 12, Mackay, sponsored by Rio Tinto, BHP, komatsu, Cummins" etc etc is going to work? The track needs to be built for bigger events. Then we get to use it.

Cal, did I end up tuning it for you? I can't remember. Tuned too many lol.

The engine he built me lasted about 1,000kms, while rev limited to 4,000rpm and never running higher than 12psi. When I asked him to have a look at it, he told me to get f**ked. $6k down the drain. Its sitting in pieces under my house. Will never get anything done by him again.

You'll find WMI works better than nitrous spray

not if you have a big front mount and water meth injection

Mine should be on the road, run in, and running decent power by then. Hopefully I get time to give it a tune. Otherwise I'll tune it on the way. Count me in

but you've been saying that you cannot kill a motor with the stock ECU, and that is absolutely rubbish. Now you're saying other stuff, and getting into detail to try and cover your tracks? The answer is this: You are wrong. You can kill an engine with a stock ECU and ANY turbo.