OLLIE_NZ

I'm also keen on this option if it's possible. I'm after maximum record time with the option of mounting it to the body with the suction cup or mounting it to the roll cage. Cheers.

A small update. Went over today to see what progress was being made. A couple of questions fellas, our fabricator unfortunately knocked or dropped something onto our G sensor thing that sits on top of the transmission tunnel next to the handbrake. The excessive impact 'red' is now showing up which is a bummer, is it normal to replace these with a second hand undamaged one or should we be looking at buying a new one from Nissan? (no doubt they are thousands ) Secondly, what is the pressure switch on the clutch pedal all about and do we need to move it onto our new clutch pedal with the pedal box? (I'm guessing it might be for cruise control?) In the on going saga with master cylinders we ended up buying another 3 today all compact size as the dash bar was going to cause some problems, we don't seem to have mastered the 'measure twice, cut once' theory. Also the pedal box had to be chopped up to clear the steering, no big deal and has ended up in the same spot anyhow. The A pillar has gusseting on both the inside and outside, the dash bars are all in. It's really just the harness bar, main hoop diagonal and the lower main hoop horizontal bar that needs to go in. Also a question about mono wiper setups, as one of our dash bars blocks off the old mounting location for the wiper motor we're wondering what the best way to tackle this is? In an ideal world we'd have the wiper blade in an up right central position of the windscreen and be able to do a full sweep to the left and right to clear the whole windscreen Am I asking too much? A pillar gusseting (note the wiper motor hole and firewall bar that blocks the old wiper motor mount) Dash bars in Seat mounting spuds New compact master cylinders, 5/8" , 3/4" and 7/8" Door bars tacked in place (gusseting still to come) Damaged G sensor Pedal box mounting frame Pedal box temporary fit Modified clutch pedal, should look ok once it's repainted. Seat rails Seat sitting roughly in place

Just a small update fellas. A few bits arrived today from Atomic Speedware in the U.S (the Sparco helmet box we purchased locally)) When I was putting the brake master cylinders onto the pedal box, I wondered if there was a correct way to have the sizes (ie the smaller 3/4" on the left or the larger 7/8" ?) A bit over the top but.......... So we ended up with one too many Master cylinders, we're going to start with 5/8" Clutch, 3/4" front brakes and 7/8" rear brakes. We might hang onto the 1" for a while or just sell it on. Here's everything that arrived from the U.S today Very loosely put together so I could see about room constraints. Not much new in the way of the roll cage, just the additional bar on the rear X

Many thanks Risking. So far just trying to get Wilwood to send us the pedal box etc has been a real drama, very slow. We'll certainly be going down the AP path for the rotors and calipers.

Hi guys thanks for the replys so far. djr81 - We put a dummy bar across the other diagonal as you suggested but that wasn't going to work either unfortunately (maybe being 6'3" , plus a helmet and some roll cage padding is not so good after all). I guess the cabins were made for very small Japanese men. We're at the point now where the top of the cage has been dropped and fully welded so a traditional roof diagonal or X bar won't slot up in there now that it's all welded together. I'm a little concerned about not having a diagonal and am wondering if there's any other type of roof bar arrangement that might work still. Risking & Burgz32 - Thanks for the heads up on the master cylinders. The main reason we ended up taking the route we did was set off by first selling our the complete inerior including the factory seats on trademe (our ebay equivalent). We were then left with buying some fixed back seats being a pair of Sparco Pro ADV seats. Initially we were going to have some seat brackets made to fit the seats into the car but then we were told that it's better to incorporate the seat mounts into the roll cage (so that the seats move with the cage in the event of side impact, rather than potentially being crushed by the cage moving). So rather than paying to have the seat mounts done twice we thought we'd wait and have the whole cage done all at once. As we wanted the diagonal bars running through the firewall we have to lose the brake master cylinder and the clutch m.c. As we can't quite afford the $8,000 - $10,000 for the front and rear A.P brakes but we wanted the pedal box installed with the dash bar we we're a little unsure about master cylinder sizes. When we were speaking with the Wilwood technical guy, we mentioned we'd probably end up with roughly 330x32mm 6 pot fronts and 300ishx32mm 4 pot rears. The master cylinders are fairly cheap and easy to swap after everything is in. What would you guys think would be good size master cylinders for the brake sizes I mentioned above and also the clutch? At the moment were left with the factory brakes which is not a good thing and no doubt the pedal will be rock solid with a 1' rear master cylinder and a 7/8" front. The Wilwood pedal box was pretty cheap at $300 NZD out of the U.S Cheers, Ollie.

Very tidy build mate, I really like the parcel tray blanking plates too, very neatly done.

Just had news that the pedal box is on the way from the U.S After speaking with someone at Wilwood in the U.S, we're going to go with a 1" Master cylinder at the rear and a 7/8" at the front, also a 3/4" Master cylinder for the clutch. No doubt the brake pedal will be rock solid.

Hi guys, a bit of an update on this. Beer Baron, the dynapack hub dyno, measured 270.8 kW at 1.19 bar (I'm not fussed either way if it's less) I've got the print outs somewhere. At the moment the car is at the fabricators having the roll cage and pedal box installed. We're thinking that we'll possibly have the HKS hipermax III suspension rebuilt to start with and see how that goes for a while. We're currently looking at a brake upgrade and are leaning towards some APs, maybe a 343x35.5mm 6 pot front and something to suit at the rear. A large portion of the cage is done, there's a few more bars to go in still as I've illustrated in the pictures below (sorry about the microsoft paint, I'm not so good with photoshop ) Unfortunately the roof diagonal that was tacked in place for a trail fit of the seat and us with helmets on was not going to work. I'm hoping you guys might have some other good ideas for the roof? The Red lines indicate bars that are still to be added, along with some gussets on the A pillars and also on the door X bars. Anyhow pics are below.

Beer Baron, good call on the moving thread mate, if you wouldn't mind moving it that would be great. Could you possibly delete this post and my one above it, and also Nismoid's once you moved the thread. More so to clean the thread up a bit.

Hi Nismoid, it's more a build diary as such too mate. I did have a good read of that thread, certainly some good info in there.

Hi guys, This is a bit of a build diary thread, which we'll hopefully update as things change with the car, add bits etc. A friend and I have a 1994 R32 GTR with 63,000 km which we purchased in February this year from Japan, we're turning into a circuit only car. (maybe one day, years down the track we'll do a Targa event or a hill climb) The engine is pretty much standard at the moment (I think 420HP) Here's a list of modifications taken from the original for sale add Apexi Power FC ECU HKS DD air filters Greddy front pipe and a Veilside Expro stainless steel exhaust Apexi Boost control kit. Nismo fuel pressure regulator. Auto G-Red copper twin capacity radiator and Samco silicone radiator hoses Greddy Oil cooler kit with core located in front of the radiator & remote oil filter HKS Hipermax Type III coilover suspension and alloy pillow upper mounts. Sard radiator fan controller Apexi electronic gauges Boost, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp & Water temp. Work so far has been to strip all the unnecessary parts out (Hi-Cas, ABS, brake booster, interior, sound deadening, heater , AC etc. The car is empty apart from two Sparco Pro ADV seats and the dash skin and cluster. It's just been dropped off today for an 8 point crome moly car to be installed and also a pedal box. We've extended and baffled the sump. Installed goodridge stainless steel brake lines and some Motul RBF600 brake fluid, also done an oil and filter change with Motul 300v 15w-50 We have a full set of Dunlop D14 compound slicks 240/625R17 on 17x9" Panasport G7 rims We will be purchasing some AP brakes (6 pot fronts and 4 pot rears) in the future, but currently have new stock brakes. The car came with a set of HKS Hipermax III coilovers which we've yet to take out on the track. We're hoping to get the cage done in a few weeks and then get it out on the the track, we'll take it easy as we don't want to kill it on our first outing. Our budget for a suspension kit is around the $5,000 mark but we would be willing to stretch a little higher if there was something that much better, do any of you trackday guys have any good ideas on what to go for on our budget? What have been the main things you guys have done to your cars to better your lap times and improve reliability? Many thanks, Ollie. Dry ice laid out, about to chip off the sound deadening Extended sump With Tomei baffle

Test post, as I've had IPS errors everytime I've tried to make a new thread or reply to a topic.

Hi guys, A friend and I are building an R32 GTR circuit car. We've just pulled out the ABS and also the Brake master cylinder and brake booster as we're installing a pedal box and also to make room for the roll cage to come through the firewall.. A couple of questions if I may. - The brake booster vacuum chamber that sits off to the far left of the engine bay that runs to the brake booster has just been pulled out. We're not sure what to do about the air leak we now have since removing it (we've blanked the hose off so it's not just sucking air in) but we're wondering/hoping we can just leave this blanked off and it will cause no problems, is this the case? (see first pic) - We've just pulled the heater and air boxes out from under the dash also, the water hoses that run through the firewall for the heater have been pulled out and we have just put a U shaped hose off the side of the block where the old heater hoses used to run from. Halfway along one of the heater hoses is what looks like some sort of temperature sensor of sorts (see attached pic) as we're removing anything we think is not necessary we're hoping we can just remove this sensor and everything will still run fine. What is this sensors purpose? (see second pic) Thanks guys.

Well the clutch fork is now out, R-Clip removed and the pin has fallen out. (god only knows how one manages to reinstall the pin) We've unbolted the hanger bearing to allow us a few more inches, but it looks as though we'll have to remove the rear drive shaft all together to gain access to the flywheel. It looks as though you can't gain access to the last few sump bolts between the engine and the gearbox with the flywheel in place?

Hi guys, First post here. My name's Ollie, I'm from Central Auckland, New Zealand A friend and I have recently purchased a 1994 R32 GTR. The plan with the car is a circuit only car (road registered for when we get rich and want to enter the Dunlop Targa and hill climb events. I've owned a 1988 Ford Sierra Cosworth RS which I sold a couple of years back. I currently also own a 1989 BMW E30 M3. Cheers, Ollie. As per the title, A friend and I have recently purchased a 1994 R32 GTR. We're trying to remove the sump to have it extended and baffling put in. We're doing in my friends garage, we don't have an engine hoist or car hoist. We're aware (probably now more than ever) that it might/would have been easier to remove the whole engine and gearbox in one piece and work from there but.... at the time we didn't want to go buying an engine hoist, nor did we want to pay someone else what we assume would be quite a lot of money to remove the engine for us. So far we've removed what we assume is nearly everything required to gain access to the last couple of sump bolts that are sandwiched between the gearbox and rear of the sump. We've removed the subframe and dropped that out (the front of the engine is supported by a winch stropped from the roof of the garage). We've put a jack under the rear of the gearbox and lowered that down so we now have a small gap and a view of the last remaining bolts (we hope). The gap between the engine and gearbox is not quite big enough to get a ratchet into yet, we need another inch of so we think. The starter motor is off, the exhaust has been split apart by the cats. The front drive shaft is disconnected, the gear stick etc inside the car has been removed to allow the gearbox to be able to be lowered down. All gearbox bolts are off, including the top 2. Do we need to remove the rear drive shaft to gain this additional inch? Do we need yo do something with the clutch fork? Any other ideas? (We've done a lot of forum searching, but as we're not removing either the gearbox or the engine completely none of the other threads we've found seem to have it all laid out for us) Thanks guys, Ollie.