WalkyHR31

Yes, quite right thanks.

Thanks good idea. I'll call a couple including CRD. Didn't think they would be too keen to discuss if I am building not them!

Thanks guys, appreciate your input but was hoping to hear from someone who may actually have an RB30 turbo engined track car that they could tell me what boost they run, rev limit they use and its reliability etc.

Thanks for that but 1. when you say stock I assume factory piston not forged and 2. what boost did this engine run? 3. Could this have been a tuning issue with a standard piston rather than the supposed Rod:Bore ratio problem? I suppose hard to know.

Hi Guys, I currently run and HR31 with RB25DET making 270 RwKw. Had my engine builder do the bottom end and I did the rest. Great engine and been running it for last 6 years at the track and roll racing without any dramas. Runs 20 psi boost no problem and revs to 7500 RPM still making power. Spends a lot of time in the 5000-7500 range as I do a lot of track days etc. Rest of time just an odd w/e driver. Runs and R33 box and R200 LN diff with 3.7 gears. However, time for more torque and KW as sick of getting blown away at RR by HSV's (S/c of course) and Datto 1200's etc!! Have been planning an RB30/25 for some time now and finally went to my engine builder this week with all the parts to get started. He depressed me by telling me that the RB30 is not the engine to turbo due the high Rod:Bore ratio meaning it will sit too long at TDC and under high boost melt/break pistons etc. Says a 3.4 stroker will work Ok but not interested in that as too expensive and car won't handle it. Will be using good forged rods and pistons and crank collar.. Never heard of this being a problem before as there are heaps of these RB30 engines around making awesome power. This will be more a track engine than road so will see high RPM (max 7000). Looking at making around 330-350 Kw at the wheels at 20 psi. I am not a drifter and rarely hit the limiter. So my query: is this Rod:Bore ratio a problem or not? What has been other's experience with this combo using it for track work/roll racing etc? Thanks guys.

Thanks for that. Tried a few wreckers over past 6 months and All Z Parts but no luck so far. 3.7 would be a bit tall I think although I am slowly building an RB30/25 to replace my Rb25. But 4.375 to 3.7 is a big difference. My diff man told me if bolts smaller dia they would drill out CW to take my bigger size or if bigger than mine use spacers as you suggested so either way should work. Stll prefer 3.9 if someone has them or knows where a set are.

Wanting 3.9 gear set for my HR31 LN diff. Diff in good cond so only need the gears. Currently has standard 4.375 gear set with LSD plate clutches which is too short for track work. Would consider diff swap if your diff in good condition and not viscious LSD. If so, can test drive mine. Am in SYD.

Guys, I have been watching this thread for a long time and want to add my 2 cents worth. I have been running A1RM pads in my HR31 Skyline for 6 years now for both track and street use. They are the best value for money you can buy. They stop every time with no fade even after 6 hard laps at WP (1.12's) and work from go on the street even on the coldest Winter's morning. They don't wear the rotors, give off minimum dust and last a long time (I get up to 8-10 track days of 30-40 laps each from a set but admittedly my pads are 16mm thick material made to fit my VL Harrop 4 pot race calipers with HSV 330x28 mm rotors). I have them made specially to fit my calipers but they still only cost $110 a set. Standard R32/R33 pads off the shelf cost $88 where I get them. You can't beat that for value. I have used Ferrodo DS3000's ($300 a set years ago) and they ate the rotors, didn't work when cold and left mountains of dust but did bite bit better then A1RM's. Currently trying Ferrodo DS11 pads that I bought years ago and never used, which seem to be identical in performance to A1RM's but cost 3 times as much. I use the standard HR31 master cylinder and slotted DBA 4000 rotors and all works very well. I run QFM Super X street pads on the rear with R32 GTR twin pot calipers and standard rotors, which have never been machined as no wear. Haven't had to change them in 4 years but when I do will fit A1RM ($88 a set). Hope that helps.

Guys, I'll join this discussion and recommend A1RM's to all. I have a quick HR31 that I use for weekend fun and track days. Runs a 340Kw RB25 and I have been using A1RM's for 5 years now, They are the best value for money I have found. They work extremely well on the street from cold and on the track when very hot. They never fade, even after 8 hard laps of WP and are very kind to rotors (have had one set of DB4000 rotors for the last 4 years). I have them made for my Harrop 4 pot front calipers by QFM, they are a nice 20 mm thick pad and cost me $88 a set (costs no more to get them made specially irrespective of thickness). The current set I have had in the car for 18 months have done at least 6 track days and are about 1/2 worn. I used DS3000's before these and while they bite a bit better, they cost 3-4 times more, are useless when cold, chew out rotors and wear twice as fast! I also use Nulon Super DOT4 fluid ($10 a bottle) that I change every 6 months and never lets me down, for what its worth. Hope that helps those trying to decide what to buy. Give them a try - its only $88 for a set of DB1170's or DB 1220's to do so if you know where to go.

Yes, it is but that's a good explanation. All the dots on the cam wheels and crank wheel line up with their covers and I have done this many times without a problem. Remember, this only happened after the engine had been running for some months so I assume if it was anything like that it would have made itself apparent the moment I started the engine when I first installed it and if I hold the revs at a constant level (e.g. 3000 RPM) then the noise goes away so I don't think it could be that as any interference would be there whilst the VCT is activated irrespective of the throttle position. It's only there on throttle open (revs building) and throttle close (revs reducing) so its got ot be something to do with the VCT unit. If only I could find out how it works internally I may be able to solve it but I can't find anything on that.

So I've had a look at the SAU thread on gates timing belt problems and it isn't any of that. I put this gates belt on 5 months ago and had no noise issues at all. The loud whirring noise I am experiencing only started a couple of weeks ago and only occurs when the VCT is activated as I explained in my first post, so can't see how that would have anything to do with the belt, which I have retensioned each time I separately changed the 3 VCT units, tensioner, idler etc to test (about 6 changes). This is driving me mad....Grrrr!!

Have already taken the front cam cap off and checked the two holes in the cam and bolt and all clear. Can't imagine why it would be an oil issue but something is not working right and making the noise. If I could only find out how the internals of the VCT unit work I may be able to work out the problem. I have Googled it but can only find info on what makes it work (oil pressure) and what it does (advances cam) but not how the internals work. The guy I left one of my spare units with to try and dismantle it hasn't done it as yet and doesn't even know if he can disassemble it. I have the Nissan Factory RB engine manual (480 pages) but it doesn't go into any of that, just how to take it off and put it back on the cam. Any ideas on that or where I could find any info? Thanks for your help with this.

Yes, definitely installed correctly as per your description as I have done it many times. The noise appears to be coming from the gear as I have run it with the timing cover off and the cam cover off too. Timing belt is a new Gates blue racing belt. Does not run a mechanical water pump but a DC EWP so that's not it. Tried changing tensioner and idler with spares I have and that's not it either. Engine has been in the car for 9 months and done 5000 K's so not something I have just installed. What I haven't done as yet is checked the actual delivery of oil to the unit thru the bolt hole although the solenoid is working OK. My next step would be to take the cover off the VCT unit and crank the engine over with the solenoid open to see what sort of oil delivery there is to the unit. I feel it has to be something to do with the operation of the VCT as it is the same noise when I try all 3 units that I have. What do you think?

Guys, I need you help please. I have a loud whirring noise that has appeared in the inlet VVT cam wheel when opening or closing the throttle but goes away if I hold the throttle open at constant revs. It is a Series 1 engine. I know its the VVT as it disappears when I disconnect the lead off the solenoid. I have 2 spare VVT units and have tried each and the noise is in all three. I also have a spare solenoid that I changed and same again - noise still there. The power to the solenoid is working with no voltage below 1050 RPM and full battery voltage from there to 4700 when it turns off again. I checked the oil feed thru the front cam bearing and all looks OK. ECU is a Z32 with Nistune board. Can drive it Ok with VVT disconnected so I took it to 2 engine specialists who build RB's and SR's and neither of them could tell me what they thought it was however, another SR20 specialist builder thought it may be that the spring inside is weak allowing the helical gears to rattle but surely not in all three units! Any ideas please as it has no mid range torque with it disconnected and is not much fun to drive plus I need to find out what it is so I can fix it. I build my own engines and can normally solve all issues like this but not this time. Anyone experienced this problem before and had if fixed or can recommend someone who would know I can go to? Also I can't find any info on how the internals of the VVT unit work. I know how it is activated and what it does but not how it works internallyl (i.e. how it advances the cam once oil pressure is applied). I also can't see how to pull it apart to find out without cutting it open as it all appears to be sealed. Thanks, Brett

For general info for those doing R33 gearbox upgrades, I had Metropolitan Driveshafts do the tail shaft conversion for my HR31 - cut off the yokes from the 31 and 33 tailshafts and weld the 33 yoke onto the 31 shaft. Good job and only cost $165. They know their business.

Guys, I am running a track day for the HSV Owners Club and NSCC next Monday at WP and we only have 40 starters. Looking for more, especially Skylines seeing as that is what I drive! We are offering you the club member $135 entry fee. You will get heaps of laps with both timed and passenger sessions of approx 10-15 min duration. Regs and Entry form attached. Only need a AASA Lic but CAMS is OK too. Can get a AASA on the day if you need one. Post up here if interested or send in the entry form attached to Leon as instructed. Hope to see a few of you, sorry about the late advice. Brett HSV Drive Day Regs - WP_08April.doc DD1 Entry Form - WP_08Apr13.doc

Sorry guys the day is now full - got 14 entries since Monday. You need to move quickly with these days. Maybe come out for a look as lots of Skylines entered with one very quick R32 (WP 1.02) and lots of nice sounding HSV's. If so, come and say Hi. I am Clerk of Course for the day. Next one will be a Wakey next April on a Monday. I'll keep you posted. Brett

Hey guys, that's all good feedback but I don't see anyone actually saying they are going to enter. This is the new short track that should be a lot of fun. We have members from NSCC entering so you will be in good company. We still have spots available so why not come along? I drive a quick HR31 but it is off the road ATM waitng for a new RB30/25 I am building. I run all the HSV days and I have actually posted invites up here before with no takers unfortuantley. You guys are always welcome. Let me know if you want to enter and go to the link: http://www.hsvclubnsw.com/?p=256 for all the details, regs, entry form and on-line payment. Brett

Hey Brian, you and Bianca still got the R32? Hope to see you out there then. Only got one entry from SAU which is a bit of a shame. Thought the guys would be right into this one. Oh well, maybe the next one at Wakey on 19 Aug if nothing else clashes. Then we have a day at EC South on Oct 14, which again should be interesting. Brett

Got it thanks Adam and you are No.3 on the wailist. I'm sure you will get a run as we always get about 5 or 6 cancellations out of a field of 98. What's happened to Fatz's and MIR's entries - haven't received them as yet? Brett e: [email protected]

Guys, good to see some interest but I need your entries and payment if you are coming along (refer attached entry form etc). The day is now full with 98 entries but I am starting a waitlist as there will be the usual 5-6 cancellations so if you enter by tomorrow night you should get a run no probs. I can assure you $210 with timing unit included for the North Track is a good value day that's why we are full two weeks out! Most clubs are charging from $190-$245 plus timer ($15) and some struggle to get their numbers. I have already driven this circuit and it is a lot of fun - perfect for Skylines! There are plenty of challenging corners, like turn 1,3,the new 4 and 10/11. The only ones missing are the old turn 4,8 and 9.

As a member of SAU with an HR31 and as the organiser of this day for HSV and NSCC, we now have 10 spots allocated to SAU for this day, which is almost full. I have spoken with Eric and he is all for us offering this to you as he says many of you have never been to EC and this North Track has been made especially for Skylines (refer attached diag)! Details and an 'email entry' and 'payment options' docs are attached. I can only give you a week (midnight next Thur) to email me your entry then whatever spots are left will revert back to HSV and NSCC as we will be more than full by then. Any more than 10 will go on a standby list. Please read the Supp Regs doc, which will give you full details of who is running the day, the format, timings, safety requirements etc. Either post up or email me any queries. Look forward to meeting some of you on the day. Brett North Circuit EC.pdf Drive Day Supp Regs (Final) - EC_02Jun12.doc DD2 Payment Options.doc Drive Day Entry Form DD2 2012.doc

Guys, this is another day run identically to the NSCC day next Sun and ideal for those of you who can't make next Sat or Sun or just want more track time. Being a weekday - good price too! We only have 12 spots left so let me know if you are a starter, I'll keep a spot for you and send in your entry. Be good to see some of you there with some of the NSCC guys already entered plus a whole heap of HSV's, EVO's, WRX's etc. I'll be there this Sat with Hamiltonau so look forward to meeting some of you.

Bugger! Didn't realise that, I'm going away at Easter so have to wait for the next one. Have a good one guys.

Thanks, used to be all 100K's so that's changed somewhat. And the other question about 'traffic safety patrols' etc???