nathanau

Um, yeah, i was one of the first there, it wasnt good seeing all hoofs hanging out of the car and the driver inside deceased. There is a youtube vid i recently saw with a very similar shot along with what happens when Deer hits ya car and some other accidents...... U can see it here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AVpzQjEj_QU&feature=related

F$@#K! I wrote out this nice post and accidentally deleted it…. I was saying going out of the city for a drive is good fun, but anytime at evening night and dawn there is going to be wildlife on the road! You cant avoid that. If u drive at just 80ks of a night, a kangaroo, wombat, deer etc are going to pop out and because they blend in so dam well , its almost impossible to see them till they hit ya. A good sized chunky wombat can flip ya car, put u into a tree or worse….. And wombats are taking over everything so they are always on the road. Most animals will run for your car and not away from the car. I use low beam and low speeds ( yup 60 to 70Ks) of a night so as not to blind all these animals and have them run into my car , having low beam helps them to process information to help them avoid ya. They are directional animals, so run in the direction they r pointing and when they hear the nose of a car , what direction are they pointing in? Wait till u get a Frogmouth Owl at 5 foot fly through ya front window…. Thats an experience I wouldn't wish on anyone…. They seem to be attracted to headlights so when they see them, will make a swoop downward right through ya window. ( take some clean underwear for that one) The other most common thing on these roads, Trees… once u hit an animal, size and impact pending, a tree follows…. At some point Horses are gonna have escaped onto the road, the last one I stopped for was a horse through the cabin of the car who killed the driver at 100Ks. Youll find cows occasionally as well, of a night they like to get up to fences and lean on them/breaking through them, no one knows they are there for some time or until hit. Youll get every single nocturnal ( and then some) animal on the road… always at those hours mentioned. So gotta weigh it up, drive at the speed limit or a bit above…..and hit animals cause ya cant not avoid them OR go slower and youll be able to avoid them fairly well. Some will still run right for u no matter what u do. Being directional. I don't worry at all in day light hours and have a lot of driving fun then ☺ And dude, yer im really sorry about your car and im sorry the Deer was killed I havnt been out tonight but as with everynight, ill find up to a dozen or more dead animals tomorrow morning when i go out, from tonight)

Heya dude, well a stock BOV should be recirculating meaning the original factory rec. But mine is not, they passed it because it is a plumb back, so long as it is plumb back and not venting to atmosphere should be fine. Stock intercooler is good Check the makers recommended rim size located in the door jam, should be driver’s side. But if it’s like the 34, u can go 2 inches up in size without a drama to 19 inch. Tires cannot exceed the outer width of the car so they must fit within the wheel housing. Your exhaust should be ok but catalytic converters are not from memory. A/M boost is not allowed. Only stock/factory boost I have a Turbo Timer and they didn’t even look at it. But it was included in the engineer’s cert. You need to have a height of no less than 100 mills in NSW, any lower is a defect. So make sure you adjust them above 100mill I am not sure about the Cam gears n case, i don’t have that but if you have the original gear cover id just wack it back on to be safe and so as not to give them cause to knock the car back. Once u make the booking for the inspection it would pay you to ring them as a general inquiry and tell them you want to get some info on mods, have a list ready , even for mods that you don’t have but might want in the future ( you don’t need to tell them u have some mods already) and ask them if they would comply. They should tell u over the phone what’s good and what’s not. I know when i took my car in they were happy to tell me all the bad things before they officially did the inspection…. so i could go and make the changes. They are pretty helpful people. So from the sounds of things apart from your boost, id be fairly confident you’ll have no dramas at all. Oh P.S check what the maximum allowable noise DB level is for your exhaust at 'what RMP' i cant remember what mine was, I fink at 4000 RPM it was supposed to be 94DB or less (I think) They will tell u that on the phone too and if you go to an exhaust shop prior, some will be able do a BD test for u for a small cost. My exhaust shop did mine for free. Good luck again dude. As I said I don’t think this is going to be too major or expensive.

I had to have my R34 do the same test after the cops said my car was too loud. My car wasn't loud, in fact is was really silent running. But they need a reason to send you to these places and that's a common excuse to use. When i got there the first thing they did was look at all the aftermarket bits and told me to remove them all OR my car will fail the test and if that happens car is off the road...., so they said go home, get it all back to standard and once ive done that, re book it again. Some of my parts included i.e. BOV, Cat converter, Front Mount intercooler, Pod filter, Lowered king coil suspension, (had to be above 100 mill) and im sure there were other things like A/M boost and Pod filter. They said my front mount intercooler would never pass an emissions test either, so no choice but to take it ALL off and replace with the factory standard parts. So before anything, i took the car to an RTA certified engineer and had it engineered...... The BOV had to be plumed back so as not to vent to atmosphere, I standardized the exhaust with a HKS Cat back and 4-inch mandrel exhaust. Once i plumbed back the BOV, adjusted the exhaust, took out the aftermarket boost (A/M boost is illegal in NSW) and i also had a cover put on the Pod filter along with my engineers cert i rebooked the car. My engineer certified my Rims, Pod Filter BOV Exhaust and im sure im missing things... But there the main things. When i took my car back, Regardless of the Engineering Cert they still wouldn't pass my front mount intercooler, so i rung and spoke to the assessors boss and sent him a copy of the Engineers Cert, he then agreed it has been engineered to comply correctly as the engineer is RTA certified, and he told his assessor to pass the intercooler as it does comply. They did the sound test and inspected the exhaust set up, and it passed, but mostly the engineers certificate held up and it worked out ok.....thanks to the assessors boss. If an assessor is in doubt, he will further refer the car, so you need to prove to him the car complies. If your Rim sizes are 2 inches above the factory recommended standard size you'll need to have them engineered as well or it's a defect.... The objective is to make you keep the car as original as it was made; It's a bit of a hassle but its not 'tooooo' much drama to make them pass, and once its passed the cops cant defect you which is a bonus . I think that black smoke you are talking about will fail your car outright but u can't have A/M Boost anyway, you'll have to take it out and mebbie that will eliminate the smoke. Also, when they inspect your car, they take photos of every single thing, LOTS of pics which are then uploaded to the inspection file and kept on record for reference in the future so if you change anything they can kinda see ..... Well good luck with it all, but i really recomend u get it all engineered before u go and take off the A/M boost.

Im guessing his boost controller has a warranty but i doubt that would cover any damage the controller might cause with a backyard install job. If a mechanic did it, it would probably be covered in total.

Thats all sounds pretty good, i had no idea that warming a car up for long periods isnt a great idea. Ill take that onboard. I always figured that warming a car up before use was better. The maximum time i use to warm my car up in the snow is ten mins, that usually gets the ice off the windows and as i figured the oil running well as it isnt so solid then. Ill check this out more that i know. that Hill i made reference to, Ya right, ive always figured its better to go up slower but i dont, the speed limit there is 110, i kinda go up there ummm a bit faster..... lol its 4 lanes, usually empty of other cars and can be good fun.... But i dont stop at the top, i usually stop not far after that so i drive the last leg at about 60ks n let the turbo cool. Thanx for the tips in this topic.

Ya know it's definitely worth adding about animals being on rural roads of a night, early mornings evenings: I remember seeing a 180SX near where I live sitting in the side of the road with its sump ripped out after it hit a wombat. Every night I drive home there are countless dead animals and damaged cars about. Usually speed limits in rural areas ( or areas outside of the city) range from 80Ks to 100Ks ( typically) . So if it's a rural or semi rural area there is going to be a range of animals on the road, Kangaroos, Wombats, Fox, Deer, and so on… (all nocturnal) If ya traveling in the night at the speed limit, and ya hit an animal, apart from probably killing it your car is going to get some heavy damage. When im in these areas of a night, im usually driving along on about 65 to 70Ks (regardless of the higher speed limits) which in the night gives me a bit of time to see all these animals and stop/slow/avoid etc. Ive noticed when one of these animals see ya car, they run in the direction their head is pointing, so if they are looking toward you, that's the direction they will run in, just because they see you doesnt mean they will avoid you, they wont. Same as if they are pointing away from you, they will run away in most cases. If people don't live in a rural area, it's not something that wouldnt really occur to most ppl, and it's a dead set guarantee a huge range of animals of a night ARE going to be on the road. So its just better to drop below the speed limit for when they suddenly pop out in front of ya car. I've averted dozens of hits by driving slower on those types of roads in the night, its good for our animal population, good for my car and my money☺

hahahahaha usually people ask a question and pretend its for a "friend" because they are embarrassed to ask for them self. I see no reason to be embarrassed asking about boost? unless im missing sumfin, Mebbie i should given its an XR6 FORD hahahaah which i personally hate fords but as for cars there ok i guess, id just never own one. I wont dirve anything but Skylines or some Italian cars , soon to be a GTR 34 or 35 with some clever financial accounting ( yay) and upward from there Anyhows back to my mate who added Boost to his XR6 Ford...... After they installed it, apparently the car ran well on 10psi till it blew out one of the plastic pipes, so they turned off the boost. He has ordered metal pipes for the factory intercooler which get fitted today. He has also ordered an upgraded exhaust. AS for the ECU .... apparently the car runs well using the aftermarket boost so can only assume that whoever owned the car prior has had the ECU tuned ? or whatever was required to make it accept the aftermarket boost. Once he puts his new pipes in, he is going to run it on 10 PSI. I am still unsure how it will turn out after he uses the car over time. BUT in terms of technicalities so far " kinda all good" ....

Sounds like a good wine lolz

And Australian Air is about to be the worlds most superior AIR with the Carbon Tax going through.......

What car does you has it in......

We have one 'Hill', it elevates something like 800 meters into the gateway of our area which then leads onto the tablelands eventually, running up this hill leaves the turbo glowing so once at the top the timer is a good idea after stopping to let it cool, however, running the car for a min or two at low speeds is a really good idea, i do both, i also use my timer in the mornings OR nights during the cold weather or snow, so i can idle the car for ten minutes before i drive it to warm it up Turbo Timers certainly have their advantages.

So what ya saying is, u only need a turbo timer IF one has a Huge Penis, Well like u, i guess i need to keep my TT.

Knowing NSW Laws re cars as i do i.e (pretty much anything/mod is illegal loz...) .... I agree with you, i was really surprised when those cops just changed their attitude so easily , they even said like its all good... but i figured nothing is as it seemed...

Yup i do.

Thats a good point, it is illegal to leave a car running but is it illegal to have a car running with a Turbo Timer? I was at the Police Station a few months back, i parked right outside, went in, turbo timer was set to auto.... I wasnt long, came out and there were two cops who just pulled up standing at my car telling me its illegal to leave the car running. I said its on a Turbo Timer and there like Oh well thats fine, and they left. .... I have no idea if running a TT makes that difference but according to them it was then fine. And thanx, ill check out switches tomoz i guess , see if it can be reconfigured.

I agree wif u, fo sho, but , its just unsettling in a way to know it can be done, nuffin a theft with a keen eye for a GTR wouldnt take on for example. Standard Steering locks overcome easily too. If there is a way to adjust the Handbrake mechanisim would be much better.

What car does u have it in ?

nahhh cant do that, i live in a rural area so pretty much everything is at highish speeds and its hilly as well so the turbo in my car is in use ALOT, and it needs to cool.

Yawns.... more for his benefit than mine... but i did make a post re Turbo Timers not been safe for car theft... u can comment on that http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/376892-trubo-timers-not-safe-for-theft-of-car/

I was messing around with my Turbo Timer today when i noticed that If i release the handbrake to the last point before it cuts the Turbo timer/engine off, the car is still drivable. So theoretically, if i was going to steal my car hehe and i release the handbrake almost all the way off but not fully, the car is still drivable, and all that is needed then is to keep adjusting the turbo timer to run for extended periods to keep driving it. Is there a way that the cutoff mechanism can be adjusted so as soon as the handbrake is moved a single notch, the engine cuts out? Thanx heaps.

Thanx dude, shall be passing all these comments onto him. I told him to at least join some forums first and as some questions and read. but nope I cant tell him .

I told him to add that but he was like " nah i dont need that" lolzzz i was like Grrrrr! But im not an expert so i figured id ask more knowledgeable ppls here

heya , yer thats kinda what i figured, i already told him to expect this, but i also wasnt 100% sure, but its gotta be logical, for every extra bit of output you add, there has to be an upgrade to cope. Ill find out tomoz how it all went, i know they did the work this afternoon.... I wonder how then they got around the ECU....

Hi dude, yer that sounds like a plan. But he is just running after market boost now, and im guessing its going to be 10 ( knowing his mate) or over 10psi..., without any other mod... and no tune, nothing else.