Boost King

Hi, I sold my r33 S2 via trading post in December. I advertised it for $27,000, but settled for $25,000. It was a beast, mags, coil overs, 5 gauges in car, I/cooler, boost controller, exhaust etc, 60,000km. I have not been the same since. I have been depressed. I miss the car. Nothing drives or comes close. The looks I got in that car and the constant fun I had. It was the best thing ever, but its gone (thanks wife and house) to some guy in adelaide. I actually heard someone saw my old car, and its been smashed. I looked after that car so hard, it shinned, gleamed, was well tuned. He bought it with mummys money, thrashed it, and crashed it! Just not fair. Boost King

The XR6 Turbo hardly even needs to come onto boost because the 4litre capacity gives you crap loads of torque. Where a stock nissan needs to be on boost for general driving (or as I found). Also, the XR6 runs a T04 Turbo I beleive and a very small factory cooler. It it wasn't for a crap (Ford Only) fuel management system , a XR6 turbs with a few light mods, and 10psi, would blow the doors of a 300kw GT. Hence why ford dialed down the boost. I mean really, a stock 4 litre, makes around 170kw mark, a turbo addition at around 5-6psi, pumps 240 odd kw. Pretty impressive jump, and I know with 10psi, I/C and exhaust people make 300kw out of them. So really why would ford need to sell the V8's. We all know the Turbo variant has more punch and potential, but they have a strong market for the NA market and V8 market, so why mess with that. There was a review in HPI mag, showing a XR6 turbo against a Supra. Interesting read. I prefer the skyline. I dont care how fast a XR6 can be, we always can show them a GTR (contest over) and also, we can throw a GTS around corners allot better that a full sized family car! Over and out.

Bought my 96 S2 GTS-T (53,000km) with mods 1 year ago for $30,000. Sold it 1 week ago for $25,000. Had it for 1 year. Sold with 63,000km. Paul

DAMM!! I just sold mine. I knew they would start going up. I bet they'd go allot higher too. SOmeone said R34's cant be complied anymore? Is that true? And also, when the car turns 15yo, is it true you dont need to comply it? Does that mean you simply register it and drive it? Paul

OK, I will help, as I have a Series 2, or had one till Tuesday as it was sold for $25,000. External Differences. S2 has different bonnet, front bar, rear spoiler front quarters (more squarer), boot lip featuring skyline logo are color coded. Internal Differences. S2 has dual airbags, some have ABS, different trim inside, mostly the same as S1 just those cosmetic differences. Different warning lights on dash as well. Also features 6 x 9 speaker covers on rear shelf, but still a round 6" speaker within, just a bigger looking cover. I sold my S2 with 63,000 km, and some nice mods for $25k. Spewing because I needed the money and had to sell now. Had a been a bit financially better off, I'd sell it in March/April, when prices keep rising and imports dry up. Also, you wont see a flood ever again, thats what RAWS was brought in to prevent. On the LVI scheme, only a few thousand vehicles should come into Australia. Last year alone, over 20,000 vehicles came through to Australia, prompting investigation and a system overhaul. Plus local second hand sales fell, as young people and old, prefered to spend 10-30k on a range of low mile, good quality, high performance imports ranging from silvias, 180's, Skylines, etc. Why would you buy a second hand commodore?? thats the whole point, they wanted to protect the local industry. So buy a skyline or import whilst you can, because it will get harder and harder, and before long, the only way to get one will be to privately import directly from Japan for yourself. Paul (I miss my GTS-t)

My agreed value was $28,000 on my S2 GTS-t. Paul

I have seen this game for sale at DVD Crave at Felixstow (Next to Maccas) where I bought my copy for $84.95. Check it out. Paul

Turismo were a bunch of dorks anyway. When I was shopping for a GTS-t, no one came out of the office to serve me. When I finally pulled someone out of their chair to help me, they weren't very informative. I asked to take one I was interested for a test drive, he replied "show me your cheque book and you can drive it". Idiots! How could they ever expect to sell a car that way. Lost my sale. Paul

Yes it all worked out and I learnt something too. I also learnt that I am upset my Nissan is gone. Will take a long time and a lot of healing to get thru this. Paul

I just sold my skyline and cancelled my insurance. They are refunding me $50 for the premium left over. I asked what my renewal fee would be, he said $1,100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It has to be cheaper once I sell the car hey! Paul

Not a bad idea. All is complete. We went to my bank, and they said, go to a CBA next to his bank (ie city). For a fee of $60 they walked the cheque to the bank, checked the signatures, validated it and then cleared it instantly at my bank. I went to ATM, checked funds were there, and gave him rego papers and keys. We were both happy. I called Motor rego and lodged my side of the form on the phone so I no longer own that car. Its completely his, along with anyfines he may incurr after 10am. Thanks everyone for your help. Paul

What happens when they are 15 years old?

I saw that on the internet about St George cheques. His is a ANZ cheque and no recent bulletins that ANZ bank cheques have been stolen. Another thing, is we dicsused all this btw us for like a day, he is just as worried with me running off with his money, without a car. I guess we are in the same boat. Paul

Thankyou to everyone who responded so quickly to my query. We are going to the bank together today (my bank) to deposit the cheque. I will also be taking and holding his drivers licence and valid passport for the 3 days till the cheque clears. I will be signing the registration papers this morning and will let him take the car. WHile I am at the bank I will ask for a "Special Answer". They will confirm the Cheque and the amount. Once I have the cheque in my hand, he can no longer cancel it apparantly without a police report saying it was lost or something. I am worried because $25,000 is a lot of money. Then again, when I bought my car from the dealer, he accepted the bank cheque, gave me the car and rego papers, and I was away. I hope and pray my experience today is the same and safe as well. It feels so wierd driving my car today for the last time. Its very upsetting to go through, especially when I never wanted to sell my car, my house just had to come first. Paul. PS: I will also pay $15 or so to have the cheque clear quicker, like in 24-48 hours the bank lady said to me.

Correct a mundo. Thats what happens with the new RAWs ssytem. Its too hard for most dealers to make a buck anymore, and they are out of business. Motorcity is one of the few decent dealers left. Who also knows how long they too will last. Start watching those skyline prices begin to rise my friends. Demand pushes the price up, especially when the supply curve begins to fall. Paul (Boost King).

Put new bolts everywhere, will cost a measly $30 or $40 bucks but will save you damaging your engine again,. Get new head bolts, manifold bolts, exhaust housing bolts etc etc. Go get em now!

Hi, I am selling my skyline tommorow and the guy picking it up wont give the cheque until I give and sign the car over. The guy is paying by a bank cheque, not a personall cheque. From my readings I understand a bank cheque is a cheque drawn on the bank and not on a individual. In order ot get a bank cheque the money must come out of the individuals account and move to the banks account. It is then drawn on by me (or my bank), and transfer is complete. Apparantly when I bank this cheque, they still take 3 days to clear the cheque. I can speed this process up to 2 days for $15. My concern is should I sign over the vehicle registration papers and give him the car when I get the cheque? I am very worried about this, despite readings that the cheques are safe. I will however be holding his drivers licence and passport for the 3 days until the cheque clears. ANy advice or responses would be greatly aprpeciated.

Be sure also once back together to run thin oil for first start up, till it gets warm, drain it, new oil, run it again, tune it, drain it, then put new oil, do 500km, drain it again, then your good stuff. Also do engine flush as well. Will take a few hundred k'ms for all water to disappear, also, as it gets into small galleries etc etc. Just watch for no color turning from black to cream!.

A R34 standard skyline, looks like my 94 wide body camry! 33's are much meaner. Especially series 2's. I think personally they are the best looking of all the GTS-t's, R32-R34.

On GTS-ts the engines are different, Series 2 has a VVT style head on it. Also, comes with twin airbags also. You are right about cosmetic differences, but ,they also have different bonnets, from bumper bar and left and right front quarter panels, more squarer lines. Paul

Bit hard for a 96 Series 2 GTS-t, My panel (well whole car) is white, and that skyline panel is also white, so you can see the word skyline as its bulging out. Always wondered why they painted them on the 96's and I think GTR's as well. Paul

Me old HQ had a worn 253 in it, and to stop oil bruning, I was told to put a 40/70 oil., It was so god dammed thick, it stop the smuldering, but it reved so much slower. THe engine was working against the oil. No much sooner anyway did that oil start slipping through and it was time for a engine rebuild. Stay thin, unless you start loosing oil, go a grade up, because as your engine ages, the engine loosens up and thin oil will start to slip through the rings or valve guides. So as long as you aint loosing oil, stick to a thin oil. My 2 cents. PB

Mines for sale. Here are the details. 1996 (March Built) Series 2, features: - Turbo - Manual - 63,000km - Dual Airbag - Variable Valve Timing - O-Ringed Block and Heads - Stock Turbo External Features: - Front mount intercooler - POD filter - 3.0" stainless steel exhaust - Custom 3" dump pipe - Hi Flow Cat - New Heavy Duty clutch - DORF Coil over suspension - 17" AVA mag wheels and new 17" tyres (Rear P255/40, Front P235/40) - Unmarked white paint. - Bosch 800HP upgraded fuel pump. Interior Features: - 4 Greddy Electronic Gauges with memory etc, warning lights for Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature, Engine Temperature and Boost- POD to hold 2 gauges - HKS Electronic Valve controller (ie Boost controller-Set to 0.50 bar low and 0.75 high) Can run up to 1+ bar easy! - Turbo Timer - Short Shifter - Dual airbag - All other nissan features, A/c, mirrors windows etc etc. Registered till March 04. Only 63,000km. A real looker and head turner. I live in Adelaide, my number is 0404-067-194 Call to see, price is $25,000. I also have all receipts for work done, and full service history. Paul.

Get a new window motor. I am guessing you have problems getting the window up when its dry? If this is happening when its wet I can understand some general slowdown because your rubbbers touching the glass are wet and makes the window go up slower. Going down is easy, but getting it up is harder (that dont sound too good does it ) So, if its slow and your window is dry, replace the motor. Paul

Sorry to hear that dude. I feel for ya. My 96 GTS-t did a similar thing, although not as devistating. I was potting around and the car started making lots of smoke. I reved the car to try and clear it and it got worse. I sent the car to the workshop, 1 broken head gasket. We pulled off the head and all pistons, rings and bores were fine. I just got a new head gasket, and O-Ringed the head whilst it was off, got it all tested. Had my fuel lines pumped, computer checked etc. All the result of a bad fuel pump not flowing enough under boost. Only was running 0.75 bar, but it could have been leen for sometime and given my short trips and low throttle, it lasted ages. But, my fuel pump went at 60,000km!! My mechanic could not get anyone here to clean the injectors because apparantly they are a wet style injector that is fully submerged?? Technical talk I think, but I beleive that all who said they could clean the injectors, ended up sending them back saying they couldn't. ANyway, we found the problem that caused the leaning out, it was the fuel pump, coupled with a faulty earth wire on the pump as well. So in went the Bosch unit, and she runs much richer now. I was lucky not to break rings, pistons etc. THe reason I didn't was because the car was virtually idling when the gasket went and added to that I wasn't on boost. Had I of been, I'd definately have a situation like yours. How many Km's have you done? All I know is mine cost me $3,800 all up! Most of it labour, parts weren't that much in comparison, but dammed expensive. My mechanic advised if I wanted more power, whilst at it, I should redo the bottom end. I said good advice, how much? HE added around $5,000 - $7000 just for the bottom end. I said, no thanks, thats just ridiculous!! Thats allot of bones I am sorry. Why fix it if it aint broke? Good luck with the repairs. Just be sure to mark all your stuff, like manifolds, turbo, head etc, so you are certain your stuff goes back on to your car. Just engrave a * or something so you know its yours. Paul