myr332

Further to this, I received advice that the R34 GTR V-Spec included on the central display unit the following features that the standard GTR did not; Lateral G-Force metre Lap timer Can anyone confirm whether this is the case, and if so can they provide some instruction on how to access it? Thanks..

Hi guys, So I am finally going down the path of my dream and purchasing a 2001 R34 GTR V-SPEC II from an importer. It has 40,000 km's on the clock, practically stock as aside from an aftermarket cat-back exhaust, whilst the rest of it is like it has been off the factory floor. I am in the process of securing finance, and hope to pick it up next week. What I was hoping to find out from any of those that have been down this path, specifically the R34 GTR's - what are the typical "gotyer"s to look out for when buying one? Has anyone had any experience of things that haven't been as they seem, or experienced anything that they could have avoided with a bit more foresight? I have read a couple of articles on this site, and there's some fantastic stuff about general skylines and what to look out for... I was hoping to be a bit more specific and tailor a thread to my future car. So with that in mind, does anyone have any advice on what to look out for, or perhaps a link to another post which may detail exactly what I am asking? Thank you! Soon.2.Be.Pwner.

I would like to know people's opions and experiences on hi-flowing turbos on their Skylines; preferably to do with R33 S2's. I'm in the predicament that one (or two) of the exhaust manifold gaskets has gone on the turbo and i now need to get it replaced. That in itself isn't too bad and I am thankful. My thoughts are that whilst they have the turbo out I have the potential to get the thing hi-flowed. I cannot flat replace the the turbo with a bigger and better due to budget, insurance and leased reasons. So what I am really after is an understanding of what benefits I have to make from hi-flowing my turbo. I was of the understanding that it allows me to run more boost than the standard turbo however my mechanic informed me that the limitation is not only the turbo but the engine. So do people have real life experiences from hi-flowing? I already have the pre-requisites to run a large turbo (fuel pump, injectors, exhaust, FMIC, PowerFC, ProfecB) so now is my shot to get that extra performance. So please... hit me up with what you've done or what you've heard.. It'll help me greatly!!! Cheers

I've never touched braking / suspension, so excuse my ignorance (as it will arise!).. I'm on the market to upgrade my brake and suspension setup in my '96 SII R33 GTS-T. Everything is standard at the moment except for the brake-pads which I replaced last service with some racing pads (can't remember the brand). I'm running at 202.5 rwkw and I enjoy hitting Wakefield every now and then. It's really a daily driver but I would like track performance as well. My mechanic suggested that before I do anymore work to increasing performance I should look into upgrading my stopping power / suspension. I've researched the old posts and think I have a good path forward (alot of it thanks to Sydneykid ). Here is what I want to do: Replace current rotors with DBA slotted rotors New pads Get the callipers serviced with new seals Replace hoses with braided lines Can people point me in the direction of where I can get a quote for these parts / part numbers? Or even better - give me an estimate of what I will be looking at to purchase. Additionally I need advice for doing work to my suspension setup. Completely stock standard, never been touch. What is the upgrade path for putting work into the suspension? What parts should I be looking at, and where can I get a quote on how much to purchase parts? I really want to do this the right way, rather than haphazardly - so in the correct sequence to provide the right long-term outcome... Any information would be greatly appreciated.

post the pictures and you might get some interest..

I know what you're saying although from what I have heard so far, because I didn't hit the lady in front of me, yet I was pushed into her because of the guy running up the back of me that I should be okay. Besides, the lady had no damage. I had a look at her car and all she had was 1 scatch on her bumper bar of which I was able to rub off with my finger. So that should be fine.. Although the small impact on her car f*&cked the front bar of mine. Dumb Mercedes...

Due to my misfortune of a car accident on Monday, I'm on the search for a Rear Bar for my Series 2 R33. Someone has kindly offered me the rear bar from a Series 1 R33. Question is what are the differences between the two? Any shape changes for the rear bar on a S1 compared to an S2? Will the thing fit? Thanks for your help..

Sure do... It looks worse in real life but this at least gives an indication. The panel beater thinks it will take 4 weeks to repair. He believes getting parts for it will be tough. Any way to get the parts quicker?

..... Well it has a turbo. and makes a full-E sick "psssssshhhhhhhhhhhht" sound. therefore - yes, it forced induction performance it is.

It's never a good thing seeing a grown man cry..... but I think it just might happen today. Some &%$# wipe ran into the back of me on Epping Road this morning. Entire rear bar is %$@#ed, he pushed me into the person in front of me so my headlights and front bar is also equally in a state of need-for-repair. Basically .. she's a cosmetically sick car Oh, and I'm not sure yet but I think my exhaust might be bent... Can anybody provide a good place for a panel beater that they have had good experiences with? I might have to get my muffler / exhaust tip replaced (i don't think it has damaged the exhaust properly). Any suggestions I would appreciate. I'm going to need to source some parts as well and I feel I might be better off sourcing the parts myself. Any thoughts on that point? :bs!:

pics?

There is no problems with running rich. If you're exhaust fumes are black it just means that your fuel economy will be a bit nasty however it is the safe way of operating so that you are never running lean therefore running close to detonation. Usually an indication that your 'line could use a tune to modify the fuel mixtures so that you're not getting 200km to a tank of gas.

regretably i have to pull out of this group buy... my clutch is just about gone, so i have to invest my money that i would have bought injectors with to get a new clutch... Doh!!!

Why not? If you don't know what to look for then it'd be pretty easy. When I first bought my Skyline I wouldn't have had the foggiest about the differences between a RB25 or RB26. I think a lot of people (myself included) invest in a car like this because they have the money and are genuinely excited about owning a car they have always dreamt about owning and not understanding the mechanicals. Now that I have owned my car for nearly a year and I have researched and done a lot of work on it myself, I feel comfortable with the mechanicals (thanks to SAU!). So if I were to go down the path of owning another skyline (which i will) I will know what to look for, what to ask and have the right stuff before I buy. ... But for first timers, it is an understandable (but unfortunate) mistake to make. Just goes to show you that you should never buy the first thing you see, and always research!!

Enrico - You'll be able to easily answer this one for me. I have stock fuel system running on my R33.. When I want to install these and have them running at an optimum rate, will i need to get a fuel pump and upgrade my fuel rail, or just the case of installing a fuel regulator? I've always been confused on this point... Otherwise sounds good.

Does this S1 have the illuminating Skyline panel at the rear of the car? if so, I'll take that off your hands..

I'm interested... Need to sort some funds out, but if the timing is right I'm definitely on the list to get some of these..

Why does everyone say that the WRX is a lighter car? They're not! they're heavier than a R33 GTS-t by nearly 100kg's. This pertains to a specific model.. MY01 I think it was? pretty sure that WRX's are heavier across the board. Which stands to reason - WRX's are heavier, have less Torque and Less KW's - the only thing they have going for them is more grip (being 4wd). So in saying that, in the dry if both cars were to have an equal launch, the 'line should quite convincingly beat a WRX in a Quarter Mile, 100m or 50m sprint. In the wet? Yeah .. we're stuffed a Hilux would kill us !!

Come on .. Everyone is saying "yeah that'd be good.. someone post up something about it". Obviously it's going to take someone who has experience to talk about a DIY, and since you are a Car Detailer ICER33 why don't you take a few minutes to put together a little DIY diddy describing the tricks you have learnt in the business? Would be greatly appreciated !!

At the same time though I purchased my 'line standard and have modified it myself. I know most things about my car, except my stupid damned bloody friggin boost controller is a mystery to me. i gave it to my mechanic to install and tune. i've fiddled with the high boost pressure and now it wont boost on high setting at all... it's buggered - and all because i don't have a clue about it... people don't have to have mechanical minds to enjoy a 'line, or a worked tx3.

You sure could Evil ... I'd be up for one of those too !!!!

Put me down for an RB25 lightweight flywheel. I am based in Sydney so I would have to organise delivery, but if that's good then yep definitely right to go!!!

You have a standard ECU or aftermarket?

Nothing specific to any problems I'm having. I've been reading the forums and notice reccommendations to reset the ECU to fix problems with things such as fuel consumption problems or other various issues. I was more wondering if this is isolated to just standard ECU's, or if it is something that should be done all all ECU's if required.

i have a moroon R33 GTS-T - very interested in a GTR front bar. I do require to see some pictures though. Either upload or E-mail.. [email protected] I'm based in Sydney.. Thanks