hardsteppa
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Posts posted by hardsteppa
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All jokes aside, OP they're just called R32 oem rims as you said. The Nissan engineers back in the late 80's loosely copied the design from the Koya Driftek which was designed and produced about 18 years later.
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I was going to go with "Jim the rim".
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No "could" about it.
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I havent deleted in but ran it for a while unplugged. Not THAT much difference, but definitely nicer with it working.
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Hawk 5.0 pads - still wearing them in but already biting very hard, and a very progressive pad. Cost literally 4x as much as the Remsa pads, being imported from the US but, so far so good.
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On 13/04/2024 at 11:48 PM, PranK said:
Seriously? How can anything be terrible when it has "claw" in the name? What a let down.
I have almost wanted to buy them just for the name; sounds like old episodes of Get Smart. "The craw?" "It is Woad Craw!"
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hory sheet...1000 bucks?? mine were about $280.
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Yep I have them, in the ultra-realistic ^cough^ carbon fibre look. They're fine, good value for what I paid. The backing plate was pretty crap, a few knock walking past and they broke, but easy to make a fibreglass or alum insert for the backing plate and then they're solid. Do a little bit of wiring to adapt the internal motor harness, and they're motor-adjustable.
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A proper LSD.
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What do you mean by easy upgrades? ebay for your end caps
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It is likely to boost creep ' a little bit'...depending on the manifold and design. I have the same turbo setup and it often had an uncontrollable rise at the top of the rpm range, although the current g30-660 with .73 housing and same gate/manifold holds boost just fine.
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On 26/01/2024 at 1:21 PM, admS15 said:
Anyway, single is still king. Twins still in the bin. Lol xoxo
LOL I refuse to run anything BUT single turbo...on my rb25 :p
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another timewaster msging but...still available.
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The video game being played only allows color change..?
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wd-40 first.
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that's great John. BUMP
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ended up going with bolts from this seller, as a much cheaper option https://www.ebay.com.au/str/thefastenerwarehouse
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I have broken old cam cap bolts a couple of times. In my experience, they don't age well, and better to plan to replace with new bolts if yours are 5+ years old. Drilling out the broken bolt section was a bit messy with the engine in the car, but, turned out fine. I now use the Tomei cam bolt studs although, even broke one of those and it was only a few years old. DEFINITELY something to be very gentle with.
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On 21/12/2023 at 10:31 PM, Predator1 said:
So I finally bolted this puppy on my recent trip back home:
https://www.alphaomegaracing.com/product/monstar-tailshaft/
I noticed on a long drive through traffic, I started getting some vibration on the motorway around 140+ (after traffic). I'm guessing it expands ever so slightly once heated up closing up clearances.
We swapped back to the oem drive shaft and no vibration.
Anyone else running similar drive shaft? Is there any way to get rid of the vibration? I'm already running whiteline subframe bushes and Nismo rear diff bushes.
Def seemed to be more rev happy and responsive with the 1 piece though!
Thanks for posting your experience, I was looking at getting one of these. Though, still not sure if the money would be better spent just getting the OEM shaft overhauled.
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Picked up a set of 4x 215/45/17 Yoko AD09's on the BJTM "buy 3 get 4th free deal", to go on Project White Lightning. Put them on over the weekend, after a few days running in, they had the first real cornering test today. Not sure if I've had a stroke or my face has been torn off but, fk me...Cornering to the point of physical pain, and not even a hint of squeal from the tyres. VERY good tyre.
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Thanks Duncan, yes I have just reused the original bolts with blue Loctite on them. No issues with doing this so far, and I'm hard-pressed believing the 12.9 bolts will snap, more likely to mayyybe come loose...which loctite should prevent. I'm still thinking of the ARP's though, especially for the 4x rear hub bolts, carrying the vertical load of the car.
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So, on the new car, OEM has used heaps of 12.9 grade TTY bolts on the brakes and mounting, suspension mountings, bearing hubs etc,with the workshop manual saying they're all single use only, being TTY. I say fk throwing away and buying new bolts everytime I want to work on something, so am considering replacing them with ARP bolts. Their 8740 cromoly yield spec seems to exceed 12.9 grade bolts - anyone with any thoughts on using ARP instead?
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Federal RSR-RR semi slicks were one of the best tyres I've used in the wet.
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16 hours ago, Komdotkom said:
Yeah, Maxspeeding rods will be fine but you'll have to check the lengths and big / small ends for size.
as you should do with any rods you buy.
Yeah mate yeah, still around, just don't do much with the Skyline now as it's 'fully done" and I rarely drive it. Been busy with "Operation Thunder"......no wait... "Project - White Lightning"...yes that's better. A Barina, yeah that's right, Barina, RS. Little turbo nugget daily driver. It's fun driving something that's so sh1t lol but yet still so enjoyable, and a few (ok more than a few) mods have transformed it into something that actually goes pretty well.
When I do drive the R33 though it gets hammered hard every time. Posted an update on the rods in my build thread - they've been faultless. Hope you have the same result with them.
For pistons on a budget I used Ross pistons - have also been faultless.
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R32 OEM rims name?
in RB Series - R31, R32, R33, R34 (1986-2002)
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That's some good input mate. Nice.