hardsteppa

All the best with it mate. Hopefully no dramas. I found quite a few issues when i pulled mine out eg fkt trans and engine mounts, throwout bearing, i had not been aware of, so 'any car maint' can be worthwhile it seems.

You seem to post alot of helpful info to members overall, I have no issue with you. Enjoy your night.

Right. So a workshop is doing it for you. Good stuff. Out. Wait..."hopefully" has 2 L's. All the jibing aside...just waiting for a new clutch throwabout bearing to arrive then will finish the install, interested to see what the driveability is like. I say this in all sincerity, good luck with yours, hope it goes smoothly.

Ahah not on sau every day, what'd i miss?. Not much. Блять.

Got my R34 gearbox around 4-5 weeks ago. Came into some extra $$ recently and after I cleaned the mess off the notes, I thought, might as well buy that R34 box I've been pondering. In that time I've pulled the engine out, replaced rod and mains bearings, done a few other engine things that are much easier with the engina out eg PRP oil pump upgrade, replacing wastegate coolant lines, installing Turbosmartass turbo oil pressure reg, made some mounting brackets for some of my mods that are "hard to reach", converted the R34 box to R33, put the engine and new gearbox back in the car. Plus cleaning ...Oh my god so much cleaning when doing such a project. Yep I'm a busy bee, buzz buzz. As part of the gearbox project, researched posts and found this thread (In which i nailed it for the OP), hence the post here # logical thinking.. Not all about you old boy, SOrrryyy. Dare I ask, how's yours going ,> Or you got it done yet, and if so why didn't you post any of the tips I posted to help other members? ???

noice.

Indeed it would be google, as it would certainly bring up the image result if I had posted it. I have hardly driven that car for a long time now but once the current upgrades are done and the engine is back in the car, will be headed back to the tuner and will post the result. I would estimate around 8% increase over the previous setup.

tighten until it strips completely, then buy new rack. Repeat.

If you call a completely different improved 2nd>3rd synchro setup insignificant then, ...yes. Just finalising an R34 RB25 gearbox swap into R33, couple of things to note. If you are going with a push-clutch rather than the R34's pull, there are bosses moulded into the bellhousing you need to drill and tap to be able to bolt your clutch slave cylinder on. I put a stud into the hole closest to the clutch fork to make installing the slave easier, but up to you. You need to change the front cover plate....obviously, as it's well-covered everywhere. If you were short of $$ looks like you could adapt the R34 front cover to be able to take the clutch fork ballstud/pivot bolt but, up to you, prob not worth it. The neutral and reverse plugs on the sensors that the box comes with are likely to be different. You can get the loom side of the connectors here, and they are EXCELLENT quality. https://www.efisolutions.com.au/2-pin-grey-connector-nissan-reverse-switch-fuel-ha https://www.efisolutions.com.au/2-pin-black-connector-fits-some-nissan-neutral-swi~138383 The box comes filled with oil but it is a corrosion-protection oil only, do not run the box with it. Drain and refill with a good 75w-90 once box is installed.

To the OP - I run that Greddy BOV (recirculated back into the intake pipe, not blowoff), as the stock R33 RB25 BOV did leak at around 19psi on a boost leak test. I haven't had any issues with the Greddy.

Yes. And all the world's automotive manufacturers and their engineers fell for this myth and incorporate bypass valves on all their modern turbo cars, and leading turbo manufacturers such as Garrett and Borg Shane Warner also fell for this myth and incorporated bypass valves into many of their turbochargers.

For reference, maybe irrelevant to most but, no compressor housing o-ring in the G-series, it is metal-to-metal flange seal. My leak was elsewhere.

The boot notch on the GK Tech rods is different to OEM yes. You'll find a solution. They are a good rod, I have used many of them for various setups, and no they are not ' just for drift cars', they are fine as an OEM replacement. Same goes for the tie rod ends although I found they transmitted a huge amount of NVH a normal balljoint masks, making it feel like there was something loose or knocking, even though there wasn't. If you used the same pieces on each side, no reason one angle should be different to the other side. Have you checked ride heights/measured the angles? Or just visual? Your alignment will be massively out of whack yes. Up to you; it is worth taking the time to learn wheel alignments and do it yourself. I have never had better wheel alignments and I haven't taken my car to a shop for, dunno...many many years. Spend a few hundred on equipment, do alot of research via online articles, youtube vids, and "trial and error" on setups. Eg, set it with too much toe-out, toe-in, too much or little caster, drive the same stretch of awesome twisty mountain road each time, learn how they feel and how the car's handling has reacted to your changes.

It's a great tool to have, even if you only use it a few times. Cheap and does the job far better than a spanner on there.

Not sure if you're being serious? I, and all the car people i know, ALWAYS use a torque wrench for wheel nuts. I assumed any car person, apart from tyre centre monkeys with rattle gun in hand, would do it properly. Anyway, no further reply from me on this unless legit discussion from OP or his query so, over to you, knock yerself out.

Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.

Furthermore, to obtain the correct torque value using a torque wrench, use this sort of tool rather than trying to just slip a spanner on there and hoping for the best https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/134997056922?_skw=tie+rod+tool&itmmeta=01JV4F9X0JG2T790PDTYY5XA5C&hash=item1f6e739d9a:g:l1cAAOSw8Q5mBSWf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1ehLELIotiBW9ttZY4Avbcw7tIQoAebP9lUKZOfgmr%2FvoyKD0w%2FsryPVoxqpduETEeCq2mpbl1NI5I3OLvNCAR7gYTcWcqn5OW87VWEC3PzWCZel4jW%2FwOjhWx636ZkbVuSY5aaNvIRyIK1rPuGVwUPrsAavS0EEnbtTxkbvwU%2BaS5UeTfkeweMKaNZyIX2ex3QWq7aFVvNsnVwH%2BohFZ09zyW1qu8sjMo6%2F5D5xIDwkMugxXJiBjl4XN2otrl6Q8CGqp6yPZ2eEG5biaKo1p31|tkp%3ABFBMxtCnj9ll

Let's keep it concise please; the fellow asked for help, not nonsense terms. R33 steering overhaul torque values are shown here.

I have no beef with him, never had any dealings with him at all. You're welcome to your opinion of course.

Ahah..i give a friendly community reminder of the forthcoming event and that's the thanks i get 😋 Someone's gone mad with power lol.

Mother's day tomorrow.

It is the most woefully design part IMO. Tiny thin head that strips and rounds easily, with the plug semi-welded into the threads with light corrosion. Weld a big-ass nut onto the head, makes it soo much easier to remove. Will take a pic of what i'm talking about when the engine is out shortly.

ok I got to say - despite all the 'we welcome your feedback' crap, every time I've contacted them giving the details of my issue and the reasons why, I get pretty much a ' oh well that's how it is' type of reply. This is over multiple products since I've bought from them for many years, and never had them actually be interested too much in feedback. IE the mount stud breakage would likely get ' it's over 12 months old' , we don't know how it was used, etc. I'll just replace the stud.

So doing a bit of freshen-up work on the car at the moment, and thought about the throttle cable being now 30 years old. Given it's 'pretty important' was thinking about changing it but it's a discontinued part, and $500 from some sellers, whereas the R34 cable is only $100. The throttle is in almost exactly the same spot; I'm thinking, should fit or be close enough to space out or make a new bracket to fit...? Thoughts...?