hardsteppa

P98- 21psi or under, 400rwhp.

if it's out of the car and the engine is coming out then, replace the bolts. It's what, $160ish? for arp bolts, and 5 min work on the press. If it's in the car still, then...hope for the best.

put new ones in; pretty important fastener. I would, and did, use ARP's.

No. They're average, in average price range.

https://www.seatsafe.com.au/

Yrs, seatbelt place in qld, cant remember the name but will show in a google search. Mine is v.good quality and they do all colors not just shthouse black.

Forgot to connect one of charcoal cannister vac hoses.

I think those wheels use the oem centre and airbag so it is still the same, they just make a new wheel around the centre.

Maybe something wrong with the way you search. I put in z32 r34 and first result that appeared was the comprehensive how to.

Australia.

Sorry OP, misread what you were asking. Starting mods; upgrade to a bigger battery, and run thicker cables to/from the starter motor. Should help with starting....

Can of petrol and a lighter. Welcome to forums 👍

Result for you. ATR43ss2 ballbearing version compared to Garrett GTX 3076 gen 2. Same 0.82 externally gated housing used on both, and the turbo was the only change to the setup. Forged RB25, Supertech valvesprings, 256 Poncams, topmount steampipe ex.manifold with Turbosmart 38mm external gate, 3.5in intake pipe, 3.5in turbo back exhaust, Apexi PFC. P98 fuel. Disregard the pink line; that was the GTX running an EBC that overboosted, run aborted. The blue line is the ATR43, no boost controller, just running wastegate pressure. The red and green lines are the GTX, also just running wastegate pressure....crappy ex.manifold resulted in spiking a much higher boost pressure, another story so disregard that aspect of the higher HP when it hits 24psi. Important part to note is the ATR making more HP through the entire run right up until the boost creep on the GTX. Also to note, the R35 afm in a 3.5in pipe was hitting 5v at the peak of the red run. Here's the run of just the ATR. Just under 400rwhp. Note this was also with an inadequate boost controller; now running a Greddy MAP controller allowing for boost to come on stronger earlier without overshooting at higher rpms, so the midrange is now stronger. Same dyno and tuner for both, just done at different sessions.

edit - i meant edit not eidt. Ok i'm finished now.

eidt - use a press with a LITTLE bit of pressure, not much at all, is what i mean.

you need to either use a press with a bit of pressure, or get a bit of pipe the right size to fit on the metal lip, and CAREFULLY tap it on there STRAIGHT (it can be hard to get it straight, and not go on an angle).

Might be the drain flap at base of the centre plate. It moves, but shouldnt make any noise

Брисбан...далеко, lol.

Привет алекс, Как дела чувак :). Россий это мой 2nd язык, извините :/. Где ты?

Damn straight. 3.5in minimum.

Didn't you only recently make a topic on this exact same subject referencing the same 2 cars?

i had a Wilwood Superlite/Dynalite kit on my old car - it was 'ok' and no real issues with it, but allegedly some tests show the calipers to flex alot. Compared to the JustJap ATTKD brake kit, i'd choose the ATTKD any day; looks to be better design and more robust. ATTKD kit was approved by the engineer, no questions - as was the Wilwood kit, to be fair.

And get them to weld a flex section into the midpipe rather than dildoing about trying but fking up getting the 'ultimate' angle. Knob 2 birds with 1 dinger having a bit of movement for fitting, and engine movement.

It is odd. Balancer should be snug, never had it go on/off just by hand.

You'll want still streetish yes? Would go the blitz, i have found the ride to be better, different valving allegedly, although not pulled them apart to see.