hardsteppa

Mother's day tomorrow.

It is the most woefully design part IMO. Tiny thin head that strips and rounds easily, with the plug semi-welded into the threads with light corrosion. Weld a big-ass nut onto the head, makes it soo much easier to remove. Will take a pic of what i'm talking about when the engine is out shortly.

ok I got to say - despite all the 'we welcome your feedback' crap, every time I've contacted them giving the details of my issue and the reasons why, I get pretty much a ' oh well that's how it is' type of reply. This is over multiple products since I've bought from them for many years, and never had them actually be interested too much in feedback. IE the mount stud breakage would likely get ' it's over 12 months old' , we don't know how it was used, etc. I'll just replace the stud.

So doing a bit of freshen-up work on the car at the moment, and thought about the throttle cable being now 30 years old. Given it's 'pretty important' was thinking about changing it but it's a discontinued part, and $500 from some sellers, whereas the R34 cable is only $100. The throttle is in almost exactly the same spot; I'm thinking, should fit or be close enough to space out or make a new bracket to fit...? Thoughts...?

I previously used a Nismo mount, polyfilled the gaps. No issues with it. Had put a GKTech one in 3-5 years back ( I now do less than 2000 k's a year in this car) and when under there this weekend, found it has crumbled apart and the goo/crumble stinks like nothing else, smells horrendous. Will be putting the Nismo one back in for the time being but open to suggestions. Not keen on any more GK Tech products at the moment, also found one of their engine mounts has broken a stud, just snapped when I went to undo it. Also not that old, minimal k's.

I use Taaarks/efi solutions ones. Years, and no issues.

LOL that sounds pretty conclusive! Yeah if it doesn't work on a tight nut, it doesn't work.

anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes' but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?

Good choice. .64 will be too small, you want at least .73, or.82

In my experience with maxspeed rods, it was not that the ARP rod bolts were "fake" but they are made under licence from ARP, rather than made directly by ARP. Not the same thing and quite likely to have more quality variations, let's be realistic. I haven't had any issues with mine. I daresay look hard enough, there would be some failures of genuine ARP products too though? Even if very few.

https://www.supercars.com/news/breaking-news-toyota-to-join-supercars-in-2026-with-gr-supra You know what's next don't you? Nissan is going to throw their cap in the ring too. Then, sweeeeet aussie race series going on.

welll...you'd think so, indeed I did for a long time, but - after making my own fibreglass one, and in fairness, also making up fibreglass side and bottom panels to seal the intercooler>body gaps, my coolant temps plummeted. Like, average 76 degrees, thermostat temp. When set up properly, for sure they work.

Did a boost leak test today, turbo is a Garrett G30-660. I suspect I have some pinhole leaks in my welded hard pipes but didn't even get that far as the system wouldn't even hold more than 5 psi, with a huge air leak audible from the rear of the compressor housing. Turbo wouldn't have done more than 5000 k's. Hoping it's just the 6 housing bolts needing tightening but wouldn't mind getting a new o-ring compressor housing seal to have handy when I pull the turbo off, but can't find any listings outside of the USA. I'm assuming any turbo repair shop could get me one but anyone know any online sellers in Aus that have these?

I think there's "some" things you need the data cable to access but - if it's locked and only basic tuned, maybe, take photos of ALL the screens, then hit reset on the hand controller, then enter the same values back in? Giving you the same tune but unlocked.

if you don't throw in some Shoresy quotes I shall be strongly disappointed. The Jims are such beauties.

indeed, I hear you, but, fortunately I have the time right now to type some sh!te. You can now get a cheap elctr boost controller that will do boost by throttle position, boost by engine temp, overboost protection, boost by rpm, boost by your girlfriend's menstrual cycle, boost by the lunar tides, boost by the Gregorian calendar, the whole lot. All for not much.

But also no. Because why would you install a 90's-tech manual boost controller when you can get a reasonable electronic one cheap nowdays.

The offset of the wheel is usually stamped on the inside of the rim. So just pull the wheel off and see if it's marked as such.

That's some good input mate. Nice.

All jokes aside, OP they're just called R32 oem rims as you said. The Nissan engineers back in the late 80's loosely copied the design from the Koya Driftek which was designed and produced about 18 years later.

I was going to go with "Jim the rim".

No "could" about it.

I havent deleted in but ran it for a while unplugged. Not THAT much difference, but definitely nicer with it working.

Hawk 5.0 pads - still wearing them in but already biting very hard, and a very progressive pad. Cost literally 4x as much as the Remsa pads, being imported from the US but, so far so good.