hardsteppa

I used to use coppers, but now use the IRIWAY's cos yes plugs aren't hard to change on an RB but, still is maint and time, and wear on the aloominum (go USA lol) head threads everytime they're changed. The IRIWAYS have been great, but will foul a little if you putter around too much, so good excuse to give it some full volume regularly and keep them working properly. I replaced the IRIWAYs around 50,000k's? and don't know why I bothered, they still looked fine. Only on my 2nd set now for don't know how many years, but it's alot.

This is a subject that pi55es me off; tank-life 4wds can be fitted with steel and aluminium literal battering rams on the front, winches, spotlights, steel bike racks on cars etc and apparently it's fine. Yet you get told those front wings are 'illegal' and hazardous when they appear to be constructed of a suitable material, no sharp edges or corners, don't protrude more than 150mm from the body outline, etc. The section of the Code which covers this is so vague and brief, and open to interpretation for the most part that it comes down to the individual's point of view. Eg " All material is to be of a suitable thickness " suitable for what? Thick enough not to constitute a sharp knife-like edge, or not too thick that it still creates a breakable/collapsible structure in the event of collision? Depends on the specific part of course so, open to interpretation. Looks like your wing endplates all have rounded corners rather than sharp points; are the end plates more than 4mm thick?

My understanding is those numbers relate to Nissan's range of super-fine specs of standard bearings size rather than just 'here's a STD size bearing". So unless using forementioned Nissan's superfine range of STD bearings, and instead using any aftermarket bearing where you just get STD, or much larger oversize/undersizes, the numbers don't mean much..especially after work has been done on it. I tried matching the numbers VS the workshop manual during one build...too hard, too expensive, gave up.

Yes a soft plastic cap on the kp thread, just for protection and remove once in place ready to bolt up. The install should be done by end of next week and will get a couple of photos up of them fitted. Then, test drive and see what's what.

For the Blitz coilovers - no doubt they're from the BC factory but they are different. The bottom mount is much shorter than BC's, and the info booklet notes a min ride height of -35, down to -80 or something. No provision to run stock ride height. The shock thread is also different so you can't put the BC bottom mounts on to them. They have different valving; in my opinion they're noticeably more comfy on the street than BC's. Top mount, springs etc all appear the same as BC's. Mount length difference visible here> Re the tie rods, here's the GK Tech extended rods vs Stock. I've used them for years, no issues at all, and they've beefed them up since the first set i used. Shown 'ere>

Haven't done much with, or driven, the R33 lately as I have been busy working on another car, Project X...no wait, Operation White Thunder...yes that's better. Couple of weeks back though, taking the 33 out of the driveway (it's not steep, fairly shallow and mostly flat) when I hear a crack turning left. Then found the car was jammed, not reversing or forward-ing..looked and found front passenger wheel sitting on an angle I would describe as, not right at all. Turns out it was a broken toe-arm mount on the knuckle. Fk knows how it broke, as I hadn't hit anything, but I'm guessing might have been too much caster, being lowered, using roll centre balljoint and tie-rod joint, that might have been causing binding and stress over time. It was a hell-mission to get it back into the driveway and into the garage though I can say. Any other thoughts on why this would break are welcome, cos it's a pretty thick heavy duty bit of cast-ness, not something to just snap on a whim. The welding is from me trying to do a temp fix on it, but that lasted about 3 metres, broke at first turn. Couldn't find a 2nd knuckle, so bought the GK Tech knuckle set. First thing, they are LIGHT. Weighed in at 3.7kg, vs nearly 6kg for an OEM knuckle. Some pics I've fitted the passenger-side knuckle already; fits just fine for the most part. A few things. They drop the car by 20mm, which GKTech say clearly on their website. My Blitz coilovers don't have much lengthen adjustment, so couldn't raise the car, so have dragged an old set of BC's out to get it back to the correct ride height for me, as they have alot more height adjustment. More on that to follow. The tie-rod mount is much further out, so you MUST use a longer tie rod, which GKTech also clearly note. More on that to follow. They have wayyy more angle, so much so that I can't turn the wheel much without the rim grinding and sticking on the sway bar ...sorry GTSBoy 😛 anti-roll bar. I have another set of rims with 3mm more offset so will put them on but it'll still contact I feel. Rims are a 17x9 27mm offset with 255/40/17 tyres. If you use a bigger brake kit (I use the ATTKD front brakes) the mounting bracket won't fit. I had to cut out a section for the bracket to sit flush on the brake caliper mount. As per these> Don't think it will matter as there' still tons of reinforcement but, not just bolt-on if you have bigger brakus.

or if some awesome dude wrote a how-to on it *cough*.

very good and generous offer, thank you. Don't think I'll have the time or funds to do this but, appreciated. The Garrett supercore is on now and, trying to remain impartial as I didn't have any expectations of ' difference", or dyno results for exact comparison but, does feel like the genuine Garrett has a bit more torque to it than the Pulsar turbo.

also just saw in one of the old Best Motoring (s)exposes on the R34 Z-tune, that they go to the extent of reinforcing the strut towers with dry carbon, in addition to their Sydney Harbour bridge strutbrace, so would appear there's something worthwhile in bracing this area for handling performance.

what i will also say is, your wheel alignment is in .1's of a millimeter. A flex of 0.5 of a millimeter translates through to your wheel alignment, so, even if bracing makes 0.3 difference to flexing, it's ' working'.

I use an Ultra-Racing one - its a 1piece design as opposed to the 3-piece design (which didn't give any noticeable change) that is more common. "difference" is hard to say but, when combined with these braces, forgotten what they're called Yeah, did see a difference in how solid the front-end feels at highway speeds. The top A-arm is towards the top of the strut tower and these arms do see alot of flex, as evidenced by the Cusco a-arm rubber bushes flogged out within a short space of time (hack tip, you can replace these with Superpro R33 rear control arm bushes trimmed to suit) so, tying the towers together will reduce flex. Without hardcore equipment like a chassis-rig to measure body flex under load it's going to be guesswork but, I drive this car every day under all sorts of varying conditions and try to keep in mind what's real and what's placebo....I think a solid crossbrace helps.

I might add..this is a Pulsar turbo, I can't keep buying top of the range turbos just to experiment. However since it's been soo awesome lol (the thing is just constant T51R spool sound too I might mention) and the turbo I'm going to settle on using, for the next few years at least, have bought a Garrett G30-660 supercore so will be interesting to see if there's any noticeable driveabilityness difference...ness between genyou-wine and knockoff. Anyone want to buy an almost-new Garret GTX3076Rg2 or reasonably-used Hypergear Garret-core ball-bearing ATR43ss2 ?

was looking at turbo speed sensor but you know i'm on a good old povspec Apexi PFC....so would would need to be an exxy standalone gauge unless i can successfully calibrate it thru Datalogit. Yep p98, good memory there; knock levels on the PFC are actually consistently way lower than the ATR43 and GTX3076. I'm happy enough keeping the same 300~rwkw and having so much more midrange; dyno will tell but still seems to pull just as hard to 7000rpm. As soon as I'm firmly decided on keeping this or moving to a 770, will head back to PITS for a non-sexual touchup on the dyno.

up to to you of course and what you feel you're confident with but I've built 7+? partial or full-build motors by myself in my garage; not a mechanic and never had any formal training. Just internet research (didn't even have internet back then for the first 2 builds lol) and workshop manual studying, and a few pro-tips from a mate that worked at an engine rebuilders. All have run flawlessly and never blown up lol. An RB25 isn't exactly a hi-tech engine IMO, as long as you do your research, use a reputable engine shop for the machining, take your time with the build, you might save yourself $1000's, and learn alot on the way?

Have to say again, the midrange torque is frkn amazing. Just don't want to blow the thing.

thank you gentlemans's as always for your inputs. What do you think about overspeeding the turbo at 1.5 bar boost, 7500rpm? Assuming a VE of 95% which may drop off at upper rpms, shouldn't see more than max 55lbs per min?

Have been using a G30-660 with a .73 exhaust housing the last few weeks. On RB25det at 1.5 bar, it is quite possibly the best turbo I've had on the car, sooooo responsive and pulls HARD to 7000rpm. It also controls boost better as on my setup I would get boost creep on ATR43ss2 and GTX3076gen2 that wanted to keep going past 1.5bar in the higher rpms. No dyno result as yet for it though. Flame suit on, I know there's likely to be alot of "that's too small!" and from the compressor map, it might be close to the turbo's limits but a while back I was driving a stock BMW turbo 118i that was killing my car for daily driving and zippiness. This turbo seems a great match for daily driving and tighter circuits, mountain roads etc. Still wondering if I should move up to the G30-770 though... Thoughts are welcome.

the motor seizes up when old and not used alot. You can pull it apart and clean it up but, waste of time "cough" as I found it seizes up again. Get a new washer motor.

Also i had isdies with the underdrive alternator pulley. Sit idling in traffic too long with headlights and wipers going, and it didnt make enough voltage to keep up with consumption. It makes fk all difference to performance so oem went straight back on after 'the incident'.

I drillrd multiple holes in the oem steel water pump pulley ages back. No carnage lol, only "why TF did i bother".

I have used the ebay/greddy knock off kit. Don't bother. Bought the nz performance water pulley - good item, but hey only bought it cos i like wasting money on car parts. Dont expect anthing crazy like "noticeable performance gain", come on :p.

I bought one of these https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/332892255127?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=542005549749&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 and then went straight out and bought another one. VERY handy if you have adjustable suspension arms; they're perfect for getting in there for making adjustments, then just tightening up with a Big Boy spanner when you're done.

jeezuz lol, seems you do! this is what i was referring to though> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192826325873?hash=item2ce5583b71:g:1vEAAOSwWflims5D&frcectupt=true Now - from my measuring on Rb25det's, it seems there's thread room, so either cap would fit, but I didn't say 'won't fit", I said that there are differences.

Because there are differences in the caps. Possibly other reasons too, but i belive it's the length of the threaded section.

I didn't use them after a head gasket once, and yes a weep started. I use them again now every time.