hardsteppa

Found this while researching..So you sold him an oil cooler which you knew was fkt and full of crud from your engine failure? If so, piece of sh1t move there. Even if you told him - you knew it was fked as you said above, and you'd happily fk him for a few dollars? dick move.

In the old days they used to hang horse thieves... and the car is the modern day equivalent of a horse. I think you can see what i'm saying. Ok i'll make it clear - death to car thieves. Get a job and buy your car you scum.

Check your insurance policy. Some allow for a free windscreen replacement per year.

There are a few good youtube videos on oil filter comparisons analysing all aspects of them, not just filtration - mostly US brands but interesting to see the construction differences. I use Sakura oil filters over Ryco, as they're cheaper and have better construction in my opinion. I have used Nismo but i don't believe they're worth it.

Lol i could say more on that but i'll remember my own advice " dont be a knt". All good.

You mean like the time you bought a diff from me without asking or checking the specifics of the different types available? Whoops! 🤙

Good to know. Far be it from me to tell you what to think.

some more light reading for a couple of you https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-stories/engine/valve-spring-tech-overview-of-valve-spring-design-dynamics/

Resonance frequency. https://eibach.com.au/motor-sport/evs/

None. Take it or leave it.

interestingly (or not) the biggest change in exhaust note that I have found, apart from changing from the stock exhaust obviously, was changing to Supertech valve springs and titanium retainers (on an RB25det-onation). Immediately picked up a sharper more RB26-like sound once they were fitted.

does anyone have any dyno results to post of Kelford etc cams vs HKS/Tomei cams on like for like setups, to show the specific gains between the 2? I went with Tomei poncams but interested to see the benefit of others compared to these.

R33 gtst Do-Luck chassis bracing kit. This looks like a roll-cage but isn't, it serves the purpose of stiffening up the rear part of the car. Same thing as this http://www.jdmautolink.net/2019/01/do-luck-rear-tension-set-bcnr33bnr34-05.html In my discussions with a Senior Inspector from Qld Transport, this does not require certification/mod plate as per his email " In reference to your Rear Tension Set I have done some research and I agree that it is not ROPS and as long as it does not affect the ability of the vehicle to comply with an acceptable level of occupant protection and comfort therefore with the padding you have applied and providing the device does not obstruct passenger access or headspace then I see no issue. " It is LIGHT so, can post anywhere in aus at your cost, or pickup in Brisbane. $375 + any postage cost, I estimate around $30-40 to most delivery areas.

One man's 17 year journey.

Rb20 are still available but definitely dont work in rb25, fyi

I recently posted a dyno result for pretty much same setup as you; right in the 400whp mark at 21 ish psi. Not huge power but fairly usable for a circuit car IMO.

P98- 21psi or under, 400rwhp.

if it's out of the car and the engine is coming out then, replace the bolts. It's what, $160ish? for arp bolts, and 5 min work on the press. If it's in the car still, then...hope for the best.

put new ones in; pretty important fastener. I would, and did, use ARP's.

No. They're average, in average price range.

https://www.seatsafe.com.au/

Yrs, seatbelt place in qld, cant remember the name but will show in a google search. Mine is v.good quality and they do all colors not just shthouse black.

Forgot to connect one of charcoal cannister vac hoses.

I think those wheels use the oem centre and airbag so it is still the same, they just make a new wheel around the centre.