hardsteppa
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Posts posted by hardsteppa
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Few more things for sale>>
Bosch Z32 afm - bought from EFI Hardware 2 years ago, genuine Bosch. In VGC, have just changed to an R35 afm setup. Comes with Apexi pod filter (genuine, bought from RHD Japan). In VGC, $150, msg to discuss postage cost.
GK Tech hicas lock bar - this sort here https://au.gktech.com/s14-s15-r33-r34-hicas-lock-bar
comes with tie rods in good cond, no freeplay, and replaced rubber boots. Painted in pretty Cusco blue. $60, msg to discuss postage cost.
Superpro lower control arm inner bushes - these here https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SuperPro-Rear-Control-Arm-Lower-Inner-Bush-Kit-Fits-Nissan-SPF2933K/162434413605?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
me drunk-buying and not paying attention, I got lower instead of upper. Brand new in packaging, $70 posted in Aus.
Will put pics up of alleged items shortly.
Still have other bits - 6x R33 gtst stock injectors $30. 2x R33 stock knock sensor, $30 each. R33 lower control arms with superpro bushes, traction and camber arms with whiteline bushes, caster rods with superpro bushes, ask for pricing. GK Tech wheel studs both brand new and used.
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got to say, they are a fairly noisy box IMO . Still hear alot of operating noise from mine even after the full rebuild, but have come to love it 😛
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anyone else playing/played this? During covid lockdown i got into ps3 then ps4 with a G29 wheel and race seat/rig and now am pretty much addicted lol.
ACC is the best/real-est game i've played (ie, fkn harrrd to master) but the sound is absolutely amazing with a soundbar and subwoofer behind the seat. G29 settings feel ok after tweaking, but if others have played, curious to know what settings you use.
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Thought there was some sort of a pressure relief/bypass valve for cold start etc when too much pressure at filter? In which case if you were just idling, maybe still getting enough flow?
On the other hand i could be thinking of a different engine..
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Will be fine. My bearing kit came with some sealed to replace what were open - no issues.
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Thats not a stock turbo, no not a stock fitting.
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only thing is, in compressor and turbine design it's the minute differences that make the difference. Maybe only the final 10% or so, but that's the difference. I'm not knocking it, and paying 40% for something that achieves 90% of the result of the same is a win, but i think that's where the difference lies. And why you'd pay the extra for the genuine, if trying to achieve the 100% result.
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indeed. Also relevant. Would appear at least it hasn't blown up lol.
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lol chill dude, i thought we were all good 😛 ...nothing wrong with a difference of opinion on some points. That one wasn't about you, there's loads of people on here and other forums that put that sort of shite out there. And at the end of the day, or even around lunchtime, people can have their own opinions, and will no doubt have bad experiences with china gear, same as every other country of manufacture.
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3 hours ago, Super Drager said:
Old thread, But i run a Pulsar GTX3584RS GenII. Great quality and works just fine.
Sssshhhhh...people don't like hearing good experiences about hee-chang dimsim Ip Man buk-choy (insert other redneck adjectives) products, they prefer to operate off their own opinions based on ...well, their opinions.
But firsthand relevant experience is relevant, good to know 👍
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I had the same issue, but couldn't get to any of the nuts. Ground the crap out of the socket, luckily mine didn't break.Then bought a cpl of superslim sparkplug sockets; they only fitted on the middle studs - still wounldn't fit at either end, very tight fit alright...the ground-down socket barely fits and only fits in one position. Thats with tomei cams.
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i understand some people are scared of cheaper chinese made/branded stuff, but seriously, gotta say....25 psi and 8000rpm on the max rods, shitty P98 is far more of a concern for me than the rods are.
option A - buy a max turbo from ebay for $179 delivered, at your doorstep in 4 days, put it on in about an hour, drive happy-fun times while your other turbo is away being rebuilt for a few weeks. Have said turbo to then keep as a spare in the event it's needed again. Don't buy a $200 turbo if you're wanting to build a performance machine or make serious HP.
option B - drive around looking at cars for $1000 - while you're without a car, mind you - find a sh1tbox that's unlikely to pass roadworthy at that price, fix up, $$, and get said roadworthy/pay rego/transfer fees of $500+, get insurance, more $$ - then fk around for weeks trying to resell alleged vehicle once you're done with it...losing $500+ and lot of time/effort in the process rather than $179. Wow...no not a great choice. I actually looked at that option in the same situation and did the math and thought, u fkn kidding me, no way.
And, there's nothing i hate more than people posting saying " WE this, WE that" . It's an assumption that people speak for me, or anyone for that matter, as we all make up the 'we" on here, but I make up my own mind, i don't need anyone to speak for me. Once again, and time and time again, each to their own choice, more than 1 way to skin a cat, everyone's circumstances and opinions warranting different choices. Blah blah blah
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Cos " know that these turbos might get a bit of hate as its a budget turbo but comparing it to the stock rb25, rb20 or neo turbos on the market and their price, these turbos are perfectly good and great for bolt ons"
if you want a serious turbo then dont spend 200 bucks lol, but for the price, i did find mine to be great.
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Everything suspension related. Seriously, it all matters.
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Had about 3.2 deg neg camber on modified setting. No adjustment bushws, so with those, getting close to 4 deg.
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You can drill/tap the cusco arms to make another setting and get a little more neg camber.
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"Hard lines" - any brake place should be able to make up what you need. Get the right size steel line, bend to make the same contours, put on the end fittings then double flare the tube.
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Yes.. i am intrigued by this crafts business you speak of 😛
welcome, and looking fwd to hearing more.
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there's critical, there's important, and there's idiocy.
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17 hours ago, Mick_o said:
When you build a TURBO car literally the most important part is THE TURBO...
lol...no, the turbo is an afterthought, an ancillary. The turbo is not a critical component - the oil pump is, the crank pistons rods etc, all are, as the car won't run without them. The turbo - well, good and top quality is nice, but not the only choice available, and not the right choice for alot of people. OP asked about experience with one particular brand of turbo, not more rants about how S^h&t chinese products are and how no-one should ever use them, ever. I've heard so many of those it's ludicrous, and no my chinese rods weren't made of cheese and destroyed my new engine and took out a whole New York City block in the process...or similar such doomsday predictions given about 'using cheap chinese shit in your car".
OP I was looking at a Pulsar GTX3076 gen 2 some time back - didn't find any bad stories but found alot of happy users and good feedback. Didn't end up getting it as decided to go genuine Garrett instead, as I don't believe the pulsar will be made to the same degree of quality and to the same engineering level/able to achieve the same result as the genuine product, although may come reasonably close...and that's my choice, budget vs desired result, and plenty of argument for others to choose differently.
I do agree its a pity someone (be it individual, anyone remember Aussie Exhausts?, or any large company) puts in R&D, makes a product, only to have it copied and sold cheaper, but that's across all products, from knockoff handbags to turbos, and is hardly a new thing. And on the flip side, some of the prices charged by companies for their products 'just for the name' despite the lack of justifiable value in the actual product? - knockoffs aren't necessarily a bad thing, to keep prices reasonable across the playing field.
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2 hours ago, Ben C34 said:
How much sealant did you put on them? A smear or a healthy amount....
I dont use sealant ben, i use my own various bodily fluids.
Wasnt tons, enough to give a little 'squeeze out the sides'.
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Yeah but if you ever order from efi solutions, get some of their aluminium ones. Only a few bucks, fit perfect, haven't had to touch them since were installed, and have had rockers off/on 4 times since then.
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Poor design? Rubber ones sit up a little bit like that cos they can squash flat. My Taarks aluminium ones sit flush.
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Been in an accident? Enough to move some mounting points?
What does this button do?
in Evo discussion
Posted
it's a service button. Automatically drops the engine and gearbox out when doing a major service; the icon is a warning to stand clear. Wouldn't press it if i was you.