Marlin

4WD torque split dash VGC. $40 Brisbane

R32 GTR hood line. (roof lining) Is different and much nicer than Gts-t. "suede style" to match GTR seats. also have matching L/H sun visor. Best offer over 2 weeks. Brisbane.

Front right genuine gaurd for R32 GTR. Aluminium. Not drilled for Aussie indicator. Will fit Gts-t. Some damage to panel but definately repairable. $250 - Brisbane.

Front right genuine gaurd for R32 GTR. Aluminium. Not drilled for Aussie indicator. Will fit Gts-t. Some damage to panel but definately repairable. $250 - Brisbane.

Corners Theo....... corners. It's not ALL straight lines mate!

AND your car's never seen a corner! Anyway, you wouldn't notice the lag when your steppin off the clutch @ 9200 ya tool! :jk:

Yeah..........

I gotta agree Merli. Midrange is king! 2540 is too laggy for my tatses in a streeter, and N1's drive nice. As I mentioned before, they'll do mid 11's anyway if tuned right and driven well enough. Also compare the value of the N1's, I heard a guy in Brissy scored a near new set from the UK last week for $1200.....that's a cheap upgrade!

Well after having driven quite a few upgraded 33's, I'd go with a HKS 3037S kit, it just has a fantastic balance of power versus response. Seems to make the power without montrous boost too.

Yes you can change the filter without the oil falling out! It really should have been done at the time you changed the oil though, but you know that. You don't need to bleed the fuel line, that's for old school diesels. The fan issue sounds like a fuse. Have you checked them?

And Theo (above) ran 145.8mph, but shit Fedaral street tyres held him back to 9.82. 525rwkw............. You poor sorry bugger Theo!

I don't want to be seen to be highjacking this thread, but here goes. Tyres used were old Avon somethings, not a drag tyre.( I actually bought these on wheels from a friend, and they were hard as rocks) 255/40/17. No tyre warming burnouts at all, I drove around the water. Car was pretty loose still in third - minimal grip. Camber etc all set for circuit, i.e lotsa camber etc... I don't doubt the car would have gone faster if set up for drags. This car was never tuned for outright power, just maximum "punch".

I'll pipe up here and say my 32 GTR ran 11.13 @ 128mph on a 1.75 sec 60ft after registering 303 rear wheel KW's the day before on a Dyno Dynamics. Full weight car, street tyres, spare wheel, the lot. (Weigh bridge cert 1630kg) :jk: I was only joking as well when asking if Qld KW's are bigger than Southern KW's, but I don't know of a similar car that's done that? Tell me if I'm wrong... I'm sure you will.

Jason's 33 is a rear drive GTS-t, with GTR front gaurds and and RB26.

Most of you would have looked @ that J-Spec Celica, seems a lot of gear for the money, even if it needs a rebuild (that I can do myself if I get excited). Do you think that's a reasonable car to think about? Are they really designed for that power level? Would I be able to drive it to the track legally? I've been lookin and thinking, but would appreciate your thoughts. Or wait for a good Clubman?

Standard wheels for what mate?

Best I've seen is 280RWKW's using R33 N1's. Power only limited by turbos, not engine capability. Keep in mind this was measured on a Queensland Dyno Dynamics Dyno, ramp rate of 80, no atmo correction, 4th gear. Was for a circuit prepped GTR 32, but managed to run 11.6 @ 123 qtr mile. Are Queensland Kw's bigger than Mexican Kw's? :wassup:

I've been looking around at a few, but the quality of the build varies greatly. Some people seem to think "zip ties" make great structural braces! A consistent difference with a lot of these kits seems to be the availability of independent rear suspension as an option. My belief that for pure circuit work, a live rear axle will be just as good. Anyone care to disagree? As an aside, I recall reading about a "Radical" in a Euro magazine a while back. These are along the same lines as a clubman, but full bodied. GSX-R turbo & NA powered I think, and HEAPS quicker than Porsche GT3 RS, Lambo etc... But WAY too expensive for what it is. An Ariel Atom looked cool to, powered by the latest Civic Type R engine. skylinegeoff, I kinda agree with your thought that a clubman is sort of "cheating" when it comes to comparing with "real cars", by not dragging around all the heft road cars have to.

Hey I'd love to still have it, but I have other priorities these days. I'll do another one day, but I'll want to have enough cash to get someone else to do all the work!

No thanks. My old 32 did 59s on Federal street tyres. I don't think anything slower would excite me. Hence I'm looking at something a little lighter and easier on the pocket.

ooh yeah, just looked @ Elfin site. Cool stuff there! I know it's dear, but the MS8 looks wicked. Just imagine it with an RB26, 4WD, 6 speed Getrag, 6 Piston AP's...... there I go again, getting carried away! It's a disease!......... hey, jlnewton, can I buy your car once you finish it?

It's simply a brass olive that is pressed into the block on the block "deck" (where block meets head). This restricts the oil feed to the head only. The restrictor size we use has about a .035" orifice. Also, if you decide to rebuild whilst engine out, be very wary of piston to bore clearence, and ring end gap, 'cause if it's too loose, even a little, it'll pump the sump dry by pressurising it. No matter how good the catch can system.

gee you blokes are on the ball! jlnewton, you'll be doin 57's in no time mate, you got the GTR disease - keep spending! Lavers, I'll go you halves in a turn-key mate, we'll keep it at my house hey??!! Do you guys really think you'd get that from a 1600? a well modified GTR needs to be well driven to do that!

I used to hide my FC hand controller because it made me paranoid! But on my 26 with forgies, (about 30% lower all round with cast pistons), the readings hovered around - cold start 40. Full load/big revs 55. Light load & cruise 10. I do recall when I smashed no.6 piston it was a constant 120, with no audible sound from the engine. On mine, the check engine light flashed whenever it exceeded 58. After doing a few engines, I would personally never exceed this level without thinking there was something wrong. I did a test once, wanting to know how sensitive the sensors were. I tapped the sensors with a screw driver as best I could, and no reading at all registered on the controller. So I don't believe hitting bumps in the road will trigger a high reading. My gut feeling is he's hurt your engine, and is trying to buy a bit of time by sending you away looking for a knock sensor fault.

OK, thanks for all the input. It appears as though the general feeling is that I shouldn't limit my thoughts to a clubman. I do however want to be able to drive it to and from the track, and be supremely reliable, so wouldn't that rule out any sort of seriously quick/modified 1600's or Escorts? If anyone knows the track, I'm looking for something capable of lapping Queensland Raceway sprint circuit in 57/58 seconds, without getting all hot and bothered!