thatlbeme

Sourced.

LOL Yep it all made sense when I turned the page upside down.

Made a mistake reading the Fast info, seems there is a difference between 4wd and 2wd models, so please disregard the above post.

Good luck with your seach, a couple of things that might be of interest when you are checking the cars out is the speedo cluster when the cars were new only went up to 180km and a lot of the Japanese cars coming over have had the 320km Nismo speedo's put in and that makes it a little bit more trickier to verify the km's as the speedo isn't original. The base model R34 GTR's seem to sell about 4 to 5 thousand dollars cheaper then the V Spec models of the same age. That might be important when you are comparing cars, especially if one is a v spec and the other isn't. You might feel that its a better deal to get a non V Spec model and save the extra money. If you are looking at a V Spec model it would be a good idea to check the rear diffuser is in good condition as a genuine rear diffuser could be worth about $4000 to buy second hand, non genuine ones would be cheaper of course and a new genuine diffuser would give you a heart attack when you priced it, just trying to point out that the rear diffuser in good condition will make a big difference to a cars value. I have to agree that $42000 seems to be very cheap for a r34 gtr and there might be a reason that its cheap so it would be good value to spend about $265 and get a full mechanical inspection done. edit, forgot to mention that the guys on here will check to see if the car you are interested in is a genuine V Spec or not, all you need to do is post the vin number in the post called "vins you want fasted" and some helpfull person will check it out for you.

Information found, the uprights come as a complete unit, so you can't just buy the lower mount connector. Luckily the upright seems to be used on all r33 and r34 models. Models checked so far are ER33 ECR33 ENR33 BCNR33 BNR34 ER34 ENR34 some other information that may help someone down the track is the lower mount connector is 12mm metric with a 1.25 thread pitch. It may be worth trying rethreading the mount first before replacing the upright.

Hi all , chasing a front left upright that came off an r33 gtr or an r34 gtr. Its the bracket that the bottom of the coilover bolts onto. Attached picture of another one that highlights the part I am chasing. Thanks Ian not sure if the one I highlighted in the picture is the left or right but I only need the left side.

Hi Joe, I am chasing a front left upright off a r34 gtr, would you still have it for sale and if so could it be posted and which bolt has been cut. Thanks Ian [email protected]

Any chance someone with the Nissan Fast program could have a look to see if I need to buy a complete front upright or is the lower mount a separate item that can be replaced. Its of a bnr34 99 vspec. vin if needed BNR34 005155 Thanks edit; picture of a similiar one attached to highlight the mount i am hoping is a seperate item.

Thanks Callan that sounds about right, just got back from the local Nissan dealer and tryed to order one and he says that they don't have any information on imported models and to try the wreckers. He wasn't sure what it would be called either, and I was a bit surprised that they didn't have the Nissan Fast sections that would cover the domestic Japanese cars. Think I might have to get a copy of the Nissan Fast software. Thanks Ian EDIT, damm, the nissan fast program doesn't appear to be available to download anymore. I can only find torrents for cd2 and efast1, starting to wish I had paid the suspension shop the 300 dollars to install the coilovers and then it would of been their problem to souce a new front lower suspension mount.

Having trouble finding the correct name for the bracket/mount/bolt that the front lower coilover attachs to. Its on an r34 and the dam bolt or nut has stripped anI am ubable to tighten it up and even worse unscrew it. Just need the correct name for it so I can try and buy a new one. And I don't suppose drilling a hole through the nut and bolt and putting a split pin in will work. Thanks Ian

250-280k's a tank, hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge might have an answer for the poor fuel economy. Doesn't sound good though, can only guess that it was tuned for a different setup to what you have now. Might be worth giving Nistune a call as they seem to get a pretty good rap from people who have had there ecu's flashed by them. Hopefully they could reflash over the Garage Saurus flash/tune and then you set it up right for what you are currently running. Or yeah spend a bit more and get the power fc tune. Goodluck with it. For me I got lucky as the mods I wanted to do pretty well match up with the mods the car would of had on it when they did the Garage Saurus flash/tune, so I can take my time to work out which way to go, only concern is the Japanese tune for the better quality fuel and running our crappier fuel might cause problems. But its only 2 ron difference so probably have nothing to worry about. cheers Ian Ian

Hi Grant, thanks for the info. You saved me the hassle of trying to achieve something thats not achievable. Thanks Ian

Might be a better idea to find out what its been tuned for first and then take it from there. Would anyone be able to tell me whats involved with reading the ecu. I have a laptop but would I need special software to read it and where would I be able to purchase the connection plug. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Ian

Checked my cars ecu (R34GTR 99 vspec) and it looks like it has had a "Garage Saurus" retune. (picture attached) My understanding is it would have been tuned for 100ron Japanese fuel and I would like to know if the 98ron fuel we have here would warrant getting the ecu retuned for our fuels. And is it even possible to have the r34gtr ecu retuned in Australia that has had a Garage Saurus tune. The car is running very well with good fuel economy when driving off boost, possibly running a little rich when putting around like a granny with the occasional pop when changing from first gear to second but running very smoothly when driving it like it is meant to be driven at all other times with no noticable smoke at all. The only thing that has been changed since it came over from Japan is the electronic boost controller was removed. So should I get a retune and would anyone know where in NSW it could be done. Thanks Ian

If I am looking at it right they appear to be monotube, that would be great news if the HA coilovers were able to be revalved. Probably be able to put them on Ebay and sell them "as is" with needing to be revalved. Its a shame I already ordered the super street ones as rebuilding these would have probably saved me money.

The only sticker I can see is on one of the rears and I couldn't find any info about them. It says "SPORT SPEC, DRIVING MASTER, type HA" They must have very good roads in Japan as they are very firm springs.

Found a set of Tein super street coilovers, bought locally but was very tempted to get them from the UK off Ebay. $1032.23 plus postage if you use your old tops, or buy a set of tops for $100 locally. If the price was just under $1000 I would have got them but didn't want the potential problems of GST Tax etc for being just over the limit.

The usual story it seems, R34 GTR straight from Japan with Tein coilovers that are too stiff and harsh for our dodgy roads, from what I have been reading the easiest solution is a new set of coilovers with softer springs. The Tein super street Aus spec ones seem to be whats needed but I can't find who sells the Aus spec ones, so could someone point me in the right direction please. Also would there be any point in trying to sell the stiff Teins for parts etc as they seem to work very well on the good sections of roads except for the left rear one having a squeak whenever the car hits a bump.

Some great advice already and I only wanted to second the comments on getting a full mechanical inspection done. I don't know what it is called but they can go over all the body panels and measure the thickness of the paint/bog etc and actually tell if its had panel repairs as opposed to just a respray to freshen things up. The car is definately worth checking out at that price as you don't see to many sub 40000 34gtrs.

Looking to buy a stock airbox and snorkel to fit a 1999 R34 GTR V Spec. email [email protected]

Thanks for the link to the 33 GTR manual. I have been searching the net for the 34 GTR manual but it only seems available if you buy one for $550-$600 from the manual websites. I thought I finally found one, but it covered all the 34 models except the GTR.

Great advice, yes I will ask them if they will throw it in, uninstalled to keep things legal and I can have a go at installing it myself after the dealer warranty runs out.