Abo Bob

Also R34 injectors will not fit in an r33 RB25. Are you putting a turbo on an R34GT? If so I have some stock R34 GTT injectors lying around somewhere. They are 350cc.

just a gentle bump

Glad I could entertain :D:D I've done 20km tonight and I washed it. I do notice the tightness as you head towards 4000rpm. I guess it slowly loosens up.

Well I've already done the suspension but only half installed the new guages. I'm replacing the ugly hose to the catch can today with a nice smooth black one. Front bar goes back on and the rest of the dash after lunch. Just organised all my insurance. Switched to Shannons for Comp and Allianz for CTP. With any luck I'll be pink slipped this afternoon and registered late today or more likely tomorrow morning.

No burnouts yet. I haven't even bled the cooling system. Yes I laughed hard too.

Well this inspired me to check Shannons out and I have made the switch. Price was great. Pay by the month with no extra for the priviledge.

Agree on CR with jim. I can't believe you can't find a manual ECU cheaper than that. How many people on this website have upgraded to a PFC. They would sell you there old ECU for $100 no worries I reckon. Put up a wanted to buy thread. That said, the stock ECU wont be able to handle what that turbo will put through it so it will need to be chipped or you need a PFC anyway. Whether you go R33 or R34 you still need a pfc or equivalent. The NEO head should definitely be a little better than the R33 but you are hamstringing yourself with that old turbo. It doesn't get the extra power from extra boost. Both are 7psi. It gets it from different head (solid lifters, different cams etc) better ECU and a larger exhaust housing on the turbo. As for the loom, you either have to make one up or bite the bullet and buy one. Whoever buys your engine should you choose to sell it will probably talk you down based on the fact that you have no loom if they are doing a conversion. I looked at buying a second hand motor when I blew mine recently but the cost v cost of a rebuild makes it not worth while and this is the only situation where a buyer wouldn't need the loom.

Here's the crank with the new collar on.

hahaha. Just a little difference! Oil pressure was good obviously. I probably would have thrown the plugs out myself except for the fact that they were iridiums with about 2000k's on them.

Well the ride height is even so no worries there. Haven't driven it really to see what the difference in handling is.

It runs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111111111111111111111111 You'd never guess but the engine builder didn't put my spark plugs back in and I just assumed he had. I did notice that it was cranking fairly easily. Put some new plugs in last night, a little bit of stuffing around and away she went. I don't have a video recorder but I was laughing hysterically when I pulled out the first coil pack expecting to find a fouled plug but instead found no plug.

thanks.

Apart from telling you that all the info you seek is already on this great website I have the following info. Leak down test. Remove spark plug and force some air from an air compressor in there measuring with a guage what leaks down, ie what gets pushed past the rings and valves. cost dunno - allow an hour at least on an rb25 yes rebuild the bottom end if they are stuffed. plenty of recommendations on here about pistons, some dissagreement too What is great power? what is not too laggy? GT-RS might be the go.

I'm not quite ready to fire bomb it. not sure where the coild packs earth but will check it out tonight.

Nope. Gonna try a few things tonight.

Here's my engine before I put anything on it. And here it is in the engine bay. And this tool does the top 2 bastard bolts connecting the bell housing to the engine. Just thought people might like to know what is required. I got the long bar from a $2 type tool shop (cost $10 )

106 now! I don't know how you do it Ports. Mine is auto too which is good for surprising people.

The first time I noticed my premium go down a little was when I turned 30. 25 and 26 didn't seem to make any difference.

I may have fouled the plugs now with all the cranking. maybe cas has been broken somehow.

There wasn't much of a spark when I had my wiring mixup. I was using the old fuel. New fuel now in. It thought about starting. I'll get some new plugs tomorrow. Anyone know what heat range etc I need? cc - sounds like you run out of petrol a lot... I definitely had fuel in the lines.

El Bee wins a pat on the back although I figured it out by myself. The plug for the neutral safety switch was only half clicked in. The starter motor now works fine. However... The bloody thing still wont start. I have taken the cam gear cover off and checked that the dots line up with the marks on the plate behind them and it's all fine. I have moved the CAS mm by mm around it's entire range and still it wont start. I got a few good backfires but now it wont even do that. Now what?

Any auto electricians in Sydney wanna come over and fix it for money

I was expecting electrical burning type smells but didn't notice any. I just did an ECU test and got 55 which is no errors so the ECU is fine. I've checked the fuses as far as I can although some of those big ones I'm not sure how you tell. Perhaps a multi meter for continuity? I did swap a few of them around and it made no difference. When I connect the battery there is a spark indicating something drawing current straight away. Dunno if it's the alarm or something not wired up right. I just can't see what I've wired wrong...

Hey guys. Any suggestions? I put the engine in the car and instead of putting the earth wire from the body of the car to the engine like I should have I connected the wire from the body to the positive terminal of the battery. Of course the body was also connected to the negative terminal of the battery at the same time and so the battery started to boil. Anyway it's all wired up right now (well that part for sure) and now even with a new battery it wont start. The fuel pump primes, the lights on the dash go on but when I turn the key to start there is no sound from the starter motor. I have tested the starter motor with some alternative wiring and it works fine. What do you think I've done?

A simple solvent like turps or prepsol will do it.