Ouch

benm: yeah i find that the first half of the tank goes much faster too. I heard someone say before that the indicator level on the tank isn't accurate as the tank is some sort of oblong shape. Just wondering, my needle doesn't travel steadily. ie: it tends to jump big gaps. Like it doesn't move after round 40kms but as soon as i reach 50kms it suddenly jumps 1/4 tank and stays that way till i've done round 100kms? (slight exaggeration, but u get the pic). Does that happen to anyone else as well?

I get round 220-240kms on half tank, but i dont usually throttle too hard (too many cops in my area). Got apexi pod, custom hiflow cat and cat back 3.5 inch, AFC. Car's poorly tuned atm. Dont know why, but when I do go hard the fuel difference is not very much, prob drops to round 200kms on half tank. Always thought that my car drank too much for the amount of go it gave compared to a mates 180.

In the end, its always down to personal preference. For me, I prefer having them separate cos i found it gave me better clarity without any noticeable separation in sound. But that could also depend on the characteristics of the woofer. Though it might be small, different speakers have different sound dispersion characteristics so if you're picky (like me) you cant really go and apply one setup as universal for all speakers. And yes, the adjustable crossover gets really important the greater the distance is between the components. Dont forget that speaker placement will also affect the way you eq ur speakers - which may also be then limited to what controls you have on ur deck or a separate eq if ur running one.

As above. You'll get a quite a good sound out of that setup (as long as you dont try to run a sub off the deck too). As long as you dont crank it to the point of distortion you wont have a problem. I've got the same setup (alpine speakers are NICE!!) with a sub. It'll prob bet a different story if you tried 6x9s though... no damage, but the lack in power will be really noticeable if you have the ear for it.

yeap, that's where i put mine. Did experiments during the install and found that just behind the a pillar is the best place to mount the tweeters in terms of clarity. Mine are only stuck onto the pillar, cos apparently you get a better sound as opposed to if you cut in and got it flush mounted (so i'm told). But I just didn't fancy the idea of cutting into anything...

hey guys, I'm such a moron..... just realised my sppedo is an aftermarket nismo one that goes up to 300km/h.... does that mean its a no go for me? cos i would like my speedo to actually be kinda accurate after the fitting (ie: not out by a factor of 2) Unless..........

so where are these 2 bolts???

Go check out Westside car audio in Cannington. Ask for Ken. They did my transfer for around $170 - thats deck, front splits, rear coaxs, amp n sub, and put my originals back into the old car. The do real nice installs - neat n tidy. But I got all my stuff from them so they gave me a good deal....

was told recently that apparently its an 'illegal mod' to remove the child restraints. The rear speaker covers are darn ugly - so id say pretty much most things would be an improvement. Most audio shops would be able to sell or give you some sort of cover

Stupid question --> How do you take the rear seats out? Can you just do the backrest or do you have to take out the seat part first?

aiming for a system towards clarity. So far got: alpine 9815 deck, DLC176a front splits, spr 172b rears, earquake 12 db sub, alpine mrpt220 sub amp. Am pretty happy with this set up but am starting to notice a lot of interference noise - esp a subtle boom from behind the doors.

yeah you're right, just looking at the panels n things i'm starting to get a headache... How are you gonna get to the rear panel? through boot or back seat?

Just wondering if anyone's put in any sound deadening stuff? Got a pretty pumping system but my zorst is just killing the sound! Am considering lining my doors, boot and roof with Dynamat, but to actually put it in seems to be a major hassle cos gotta remove a lot of panels... Has anyone used this? and what kinda diff does it actually make to road noise? sound quality of speakers??

Yeah, am also interested, but some time next year cos money's tight atm. So exactly which dash guage are we looking at??

Nope, had to do it the long way and take out the deck..... Great Guide though!!! (hard launches n stuff dont get enough Gs to push it out..... guess that's a sign for new intercooler??) Anyhow, found a Doris Day CD in there!!! whoever that is....???

Most insurance companies have some sort of new policy about turbo imports implemented recently. They'll continue their existing ones, but very reluctant to take on any new. Tried virtually the whole yellow pages last month, and most didn't even get to the age question. Your best bet is to go for a broker. They managed to set me up with SGIO as the only driver (i'm 23) for round $1800.

Mod for mod, the 180sx should be very slightly faster... Although for some reason, to me they feel much faster to drive - (not that i've driven that many) than the skyline .... In the end the actual difference is so small I think it would come down mostly to driver skill. As for that, my R33 is very picky. It's either an awesome launch, or darn shameful.... Just my thoughts.....

I am such a dumbass..... was in such a hurry to change CDs today I accidentally missed the slot and shoved it into the R33 - like really INTO the car. *sigh* quick question... anyone know how to retrieve it without having to drag out the whole deck??

Yeah, I got a yellow foam HKS pod. I'm quite sure its louder than the stock BOV til max boost past 4500 rpm. Yikes, the filtration results of that pod comparison is quite disturbing though.....