negoshi8or

search button is your friend http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=93178

How is the window broken? Not going up and down? Two points - either the switch solenoid - the box that controls automatic up and down has some solder joints that have cracked - or the motor is burnt out because of the solenoid. Solder joint cracking is the most common cause of the power window not working. Do a search on the forums there are photo guides available. It is a ten minute solder job - by you or your local electronics shop. This may be able to save you some hassle. FYI - ealier model skylines have two parts - the switch and the solenoid - later models have the solenoid built into the switch. Good luck.

Try using silvo from Coles or woolies. about $8 for a can that will last you two lifetimes. Using a cotton cloth... put some on it then rub in small circles with pressure. Then buff off with a clean cotton rag. Finally, to help protect the finish... add some car polish and then polish off as per usual. This will cure the fading/yellowing problem but not the cracking. Plastic gets old and doesn't like the sun... it cant be helped.

Dude can you let me know how wide they are? ie 7" or 8". Thanks!

Hi ryan, Nice rims... potentially interested. I assume you have 2 x 7" for the front and 2 x 8" for the rear? Also, what details can you supply about the tyres? make? profile height? etc. Thanks, Craig

Hey thanks SK... Yes I measured each wire OD twice... taking close shots with my cannon ixus tends to distort pics a little. So I will go ahead with the whitelines because well... they are new! And that the RS-R's are stiffer. Thanks again.

Cheers Salad and SK. Putting it all back together tomorrow then off for the alignment on Friday :-)

Hi SK, Thanks for the info. I was taking off the plastic covers that go on the base and tops of the springs and found a sticker - confirming they are RS-R Down Springs. Jumping on their website didnt yield much info but I have attached a pic. I see the 3 sacrificial coils (on the rear shock?) as you described (closer windings than the other coils?)... there was some corrosion (due to contact I believe) on both rears. What does that indicate? As always, thanks again for your knowledge.

ok so that is a yes for all four questions :-) Thankyou!!

Should be replaced eventually but you can still drive... No major damage except more play in the steering. I was naughty and didnt replace mine after the boots were torn for 60k kms!!!

Hi there, I have just replaced the front tie rod ends (thats what they are called) on my R33 GTS. Common problem yes they do wear out. Only a big problem if the rubber has badly cracked and the grease has been replaced by dirt and grime. Badly worn ball joints will add play to the steering and potentially make clicking noises. Looking at your pic, they need replacement!! Good news. Very easy to replace!! Search the forum for a thread that removes them - do a search. A dude posted a how-to with pics for a GTR. (process is the same for most models) Call pedders and tell them what car you have - they stock 3 different kinds. Measure the length of the tie rod end (from the end of it to the centre of the ball joint - best to measure underneath it) Try to match or get the closest length to the pedders tie rod end. The next bit is - match the thickness (thread diameter) of the tie rod. It is either 12mm or 14mm. Mine was 14 mm. Cost - about $32-$35 each Get your tools and go for it!

Your Magic Please :-) RS-R lowered Springs Rear: coil ID = 102/89mm wire OD = 12mm # of coils = 9 Spring rate = Front: coil ID = 98/68mm wire OD = 11mm # of coils = 9 Spring rate =

Yes I am fitting the Bilstein + Whiteline package sorted by SK with front 350mm and rear 340mm ride height So the front camber kit, and the rear camber kit is needed . The rear camber kit replaces the inner (ie closest to the diff) radius rod and control rod bushings. You will need the suspension shop to push out the old rubber bushings. I read on some threads that the front camber bushes can be knocked out with a hammer and screwdriver... ...ok will give it a go.. And as you may have read from my other posts that what I thought were factory springs that had been cut, were infact a set of lowered RS-R springs (black with "GTR" style lettering). So upon removal of the rear arms I have discovered this nugget (see pic) On the left is the whiteline bush, on the right is an offset bolt. The offset bolt is "keyed" ie the washer only will go one one way. The shank of the bolt (the part with no thread) is 25mm long... While the metal inner barrel of the whiteline bush is 40mm long So can anyone tell me if... 1. The offset bolt is factory? (I think not) 2. If not factory, was the bolt fitted to adjust camber with the lowered RS-R springs? (I think most likely) 3. Should I bother installing the whiteline bush after all? (I think why not) 4. Can I use the offset bolt and the new whiteline bush together? (I have no idea) Yes there are a few questions... just want to go about this the right way... and learn something new. Apologies if I have covered something already in the forums (didnt find it) and I hope other suspension GB people can find something useful out of this thread and the pics. Thank you for your replies.

Not sure sam... haven't measured them yet to compare... the garage floor is level as water doesnt flow off to any direction... time to check bushings... etc

Ok thanks SK... will post after work ;-)

After getting SK's Bilstein & Whiteline GB for my GTS, I have picked up in the forums that the Whiteline springs are around 25% firmer than factory springs. Getting under the car to install the new shocks and springs, I have discovered the japan owner had not cut the factory springs to lower it (340mm all corners), but rather had installed some lowered RS-R springs. (see my post in the GTST Bilstein GB section) So now I cant compare the factory ride to the upgraded one. Can SK or any other forum member let me know what springs would provide a softer ride? I have a suspect the RS-R's are infact firmer than the whitelines as they appear popular with drifters. Some thoughts would be appreciated :-) Cheers people.

Got my springs, shocks and camber kit today. Thanks Gary for arranging and keeping me informed through the process. I am sure the other members from this group buy think the same. Hats off to you. FYI I have factory springs and shocks - of which the springs have been cut to give 340mm ride on all four corners (and 345mm on one corner!!!) Needless to say it bottoms out, the ride is extremely harsh, and you can feel every bump on the road. The car has done 100k kms. The previous owner from Japan didnt do the best work... *BITCH SLAP* Once fitted I will post my thoughts on the new ride "comfort" so others can read about the difference this kit makes from the crap handling I had before.

Hey newbie, 1-2 days min? Sorry dude but I disagree with you. I am not a mechanic nor am I clueless with tools but this job took me 3-4 hours at most. I am not boasting but hoping I can convince another forum member save himself $1000. Ric - dont be worried about doing it! Give it a go! I learnt how to pull out the dash by reading guides on the forum here... there is one with pics on how to remove the dash. A good 2nd hand core should cost between $100-$120. A brand new one I was quoted (from NatRad I think) was $350. I cant say if Ric's quoted price was including a new one or 2nd hand. All it comes down to is your own decision. Peace and out.

Found the Bloodhound exploit when I clicked the link and arrived at the Group Buy forum from the main page: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hp?showforum=61 Scan type: Auto-Protect Scan Event: Threat Found! Threat: Bloodhound.Exploit.96 File: C:\Documents and Settings\creg\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\Content.IE5\N6VFPKDB\index[2].htm This Was found by Norton AV. Kill it!!!! ;-)

Hi Pete, Try JL Auto Part recyclers - I Just replaced mine on my R33 GTS - cost $130 inc GST. They have a few in stock... but take a phillips screwdriver with you and remove the plastic pipes - give the internals an inspection - it will let you know the condition of it. my old one was black... the new one was shiny silver. FYI I got a quote from hyperdrive in malaga about a year ago and quoted $1000 to replace... didnt state if the heater core was a new one or second hand. JL Auto Part Recyclers 62 Mercantile Way Malaga 08 9248 5541 Or try AGI in Bayswater - they have them instock for $110 ex GST... and you have to wait a day or two as they have to pull it off the front cut. AGI Auto Imports 233 Collier Road, Bayswater, WA, 6053 08 9272 5055

sorry about the bad news...I had a not so good experience too. PM please...would like to know if same crew. much appreciated

can ya do one at day time??

ha ha sounds like a milo tin for a muffler... man this thread is hell funny...me sides are aching!

Try this little exe file. Can covert a million and one things, and the coversion is both ways... don't worry the file is legit, no viruses or the like. This is an absolute gem... hmm cant post it... email me here and I can send it to you.

full time crack whore and part time computer engineering/geologist for an oil company...me thinks the only strange one who talks to rocks here...