sucram

Deg C The actual power difference from temp alone is somewhere around 2% give or take.

20 deg C difference in charge air temp is about 2% power difference. One of the reasons you tune on the richer side on a non compensated ecu

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Aeromotive http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360613-what-intank-pump-will-deliver-the-most-flow-nismo/ I wont be able to fit it this weekend either

I seem to recall that the N1 flows less then stock Reason being is that on the track, too much flow of water gives less time for the radiator to transfer heat. So N1 was better suited to engines that are more track orientated (live their life at higher rpm) and Normal is better suited for street driven low rpm cars. Its been a while since I looked at one side by side To work it out you would need to measure the area of the blades, angle/profile and the pump speed (rpm/pulley size) If you removed your thermostate completely, your engine will run hotter. In traffic, highway and on the track. Flow needs to be balanced with the effectivness of the radiator used. If you have a street car that is used as a track car as well, these can be the hardest to set up especially if you do track days when its 40 degree's outside. The problem is compounded if you have a high hp car -Larger radiator (volume) -Stock fan (flows the most but sucks engine power) -Multi pass set up -Header Tank (more volume, easily beeds air) -Diffuser to direct air through the core instead of under/over/around -100% water transfers heat better, (run sweet F all coolant if your lazy like me and dont want to change for meets) -Water wetter works but hates coolant (about 4 deg drop) This is pretty much what you will need to consider if you want something you can drive every day as well as doing track work. Its been a couple of years since I raced bikes and even longer since I raced cars but nothing has changed much for 45 deg days and 60 deg track temps. You may even need to run an N1 pump with stock pulley for the road and under driven for the track (or vise versa). Even machining down the impeller is an option but you would need to experiment and test to see if that is the direction you want to go with the pump you decided is best for ya

Im in a similar situation except mine are hks First thing you have to figure out would be if garrett sell N1 chra's. Easier said then done. Matching wheel size's is one thing, profile is another. You cant really ring someone up as I doubt they will know for sure. If you use turbos that are slightly different it could surge. You may or may not be able to get the turbo rebuilt. As far as I know Garrett Australia can balance them but rebuilding it seems costly and most companies will suggest replacing the core. If it doesnt spin easily, it might be the bearing, but could also have damaged the shaft. Best bet would be to send your turbo away and get them to quote on repair and let them know what it is and that its a PAIR. You might get lucky and after they strip it and balance it could come up good (debris in bearing etc). Its a gamble cos it could come back stuffed and you still need to pay for labour Or you could look for another R34 N1 turbo Or you could sell the one good one you have to recoup some losses and buy another pair

I found that anything more then 272-280, 238 @50 thou and cops will look at your car funny. How this applies to a 26/30 though im unsure.

Hi Rick, PM Sent The Tension rods fit R32 GTS and S13. I took these off my old car thinking I could make them fit my gtr but it was too much effort and a mate gave me GTR ones for doing a string alignment on his car at 11pm on a saturday night. This reminds me, I have new tension rods for my GTR that I dont need anymore. Will take pic's and add more details RB26 HKS Exhaust manifold gaskets (pair/set) New $155 shipped

HKS 550's have little use but have been sitting around for a couple of years so i'll send them off for cleaning and testing before shipping $450 shipped via express post. RB Adjustable Pulleys, old school style with 5 bolts. Looks like they were made using the stock wheels. Sorry no downie install marks $150 express posted New S13/R32 Hicas lock bar, new with blanking plug kit so you can plug it, and pull the rest of the hicas out at your leiasure $120 express posted R32 GTS Tension rods, good bearings, billett alloy arms $140 shipped. Will also fit S13. Maybe S14/S15 R32 GTR rear inner toe arm, comes with free hicas $45

Aeromotive stealth Just got mine $240 from ebay, did free shipping cos I bought it without bidding on Ebay 340lph @ 40psi and 13.5V I was gonna take some pics of the install but it looks similar in dimentions to a walbro. Chances are I wont be able to do it this weekend either

You have Subaru 4.44 ratios in your GTS4?? How did you manage to make them fit??

There is a new fuel pump, just released not long ago. It flows nearly 350lph at 45psi. 290lph @60psi all at 13.5v. Basically it flows just over 30% more then a failbro 255, denso etc.@ 13.5v. As another comparison the walbro and denso need 16.5v to run close to this pump at its 13.5v flow on 0.7 SG. Nismo quotes 276lph @ 3 Bar pressure, no SG or voltage quoted The only downside I can see is that it will probably surge on under 1/4 tank on a bnr32- more of a design prob of the tank then pump. Its a 100% drop in, in tank pump and the best part is, cost is about $250 I will be getting mine in a few days and post findings

How does someone whos not a mechanic carry out a mechanical inspection?

was gonna ask how it was going Your getting pretty good economy there You might be able to lean your map a little at cruise and add accel enrichment for a compromise. I found it works better overall, steady throttle for economy but enrichment for torque (hills, passing etc). Power FC is pretty crappy with the hand control, 1k increments are lol microtech technology. Wish I didnt sell my M800

Genuine HKS?!?! Got pic's of the top?

Center and passenger side dash vents condition and price please

WTB 4.375 as a full set or 4.363 Front only, I have a rear In Sydney and am willing to pay for shipping if needed Please PM/Post with Tooth count and other details I know guys sit on them, if you have been sitting on it for a year+, your not gonna run it so sell it to me ;-)

The adaptor would cost more then the 2nd pod cost your trying to save money on

fitted an aftermarket cluster to a mates car and his oil pressure reads lower now

Im after the inner thread measurement on the front. Basically I wanted to know if its the M16 thread or the M12 so I can organise some replacements before I strip it. I would rather use an aftermarket item with in built spacers for additonal lock since it might make U turns and parking easier ;-)

If the bush was solid (alloy/steel) it would work. You shouldnt run a poly/urethane bush on tie rods as they deflect under load. Ball Joints pivot to compensate for arm angle changes without deflecting (squishing one way or another)

Item: R32 GTR inner tie rod, comes with free OEM hicas. I dont have a vice to put the other end in to remove it Condition: Just under 100K klms, good used condition, other side stuffed and replaced the lot Prefer pick up in Sydney Contact via PM $60

This step Zero kit looks pretty good. About 5 years ago I bought one of their Step 2 cranks (2306-RN005) to use in a project which I put on the back burner. Back then they only had the Step 2 and the Step 3 being a billett crank, 22mm pins and if my memory serves correct, coated pistons. Interesting how they dont have a Step 3 or billet crank anymore and added a Step Zero and 1 to their line up. What I have noticed is their suggested RPM and power limits. I dont recall their older step 2 (or step 3) kit having these. Does anyone remember? 9k rpm from their step 2 seems way low or just conservative. The current Step Zero crank looks similar but there are a few differences you can spot from the limited pic's floating around. There is a lot of machining around the big end journal which looks like its only purpose is for weight reduction and centrifical force. The counter weights look different in design, Thinner perhaps? Probably so they could get awat with some weight savings on the other end at the expense of overall strength. There is also an attempt to reduce weight from the center of the crank. Would be interesting to compare the difference side by side, if anyone in Sydney is keen (and has a good camera lol) let me know. I also have a used 2.7 crank we can use for comparison. The 2.8 crank is 22kg.