sucram

I used fuel that was over a year old end of last year. Took 3 deg out, was fine but down on power

Brand new ATI 918598 500hp crank damper. Includes water pump pulley, all paperwork etc. Bought to fit my R32, cbf changing the PS pump to R33 and just used an R32 kit. Wont fit r32 without doing the above $550 Located in Sydney

Brand new 0.5, 0.6 and 0.7mm nozzles. The leaflet is missing however it can be downloaded $500 ono Located in Sydney Pump flow can be increased by using a prepump

Bit of a dumb shit move from the Ferrari sitting on line in the path of fluid. If it were me I would want to reverse the fk out of there ASAP

if you can justify IDC based WMI go for it. But generally you want the most injection at peak torque. Its just nicer.

Put a 2'' flange between your rear most flanges, the reduction in size will also reduce noise

Methanol and Ethanol increases the octane, water reduces pre ignition. Water absorbs more heat then methanol. So if you ran meth only, any addition timing is basically from increased RON. You basically have a methanol enrichment system. If you run water only, your stabilizing your mixture that would normally be done with richer mixtures, So when running water/meth you usually go up a size or so. I mix 50:50 by weight. I cant remember why but it works out to be more meth by volume. Even though you spray volume, something something volume mass and density comes into the mix. Sorry about being vague, I forgotten the formula, google it if you need to know more

This is called a compound system More common in tractor pulling to get 90+ psi. There are some petrol engines running around with this but next to none in Australia. You can also run 1 smaller turbo and one larger. Always wanted to try one but lack motivation.

buy some sort of silvia that you don't need to take a loan out for. 18k loan for any car at 22 is not a wise choice

There are some problems with preturbo. You need to inject a bucket load, if your using a 200psi surflow pump you will probably need another one even if you have boost pressure going to your tank. You need to inject atleast double, since your compressor is soaking compressor heat and to get in cylinder benefits. I ran the smallest nozzles 0.5mm, I couldn't get a 0.3mm bit in so size might be before it was plated. Even so at over 350psi the comp wheel looks sand blasted on the outside 2/3. You really need to run it right at the nut for it to avoid damage- not possible on twins. I have been using water injection for a long time. If you start with a very well cleaned system and use only distilled water you generally wont clog a nozzle. If you run multi point small nozzles the chance of blockage increases. I also trigger a bit earlier then normal, you can feel a clogged nozzle and can back off before you get into full boost or high rpm

use an ecig, you can smoke where you want and no smell

They arnt that bad. I have run much worse over 20psi. If you want to be anal, you can buy a comp wheel and get it balanced. Comp wheel shouldn't be more then $140 delivered

My 92/95 Tune with wmi will take more timing then my 98 ron tune without. It wont take the timing on ethanol but it can also run leaner.

You could have just googled how to do toe with string. Its pretty easy. Camber you can use an IR temp gun, not as good as a probe but you wont be cracking disc's either. If you want to know degrees you can use a drafting 90 deg ruler, 1 measurement and year 9/10 maths. Castor is harder, but once its set, toe, camber and small changes to ride height don't effect it too much to worry about measuring. I would go as far as saying once its initially set, its pretty much forget. If you need to take a touch out or put a touch more, mark your adjustor and turn it 1/4, 1/2 turn etc, rinse and repeat for other side. Would be a bit harder on whiteline castor kits

bump resonable offers considered

Pretty sure they are +20 and clear R33/34 GTR brembos (will confirm) I will have to get pics of the actual wheels during the week but they are straight with only minor gutter rash on the lips from everyday use. I dont know how this happened since they were on the car when I got it but it looks like its from parking. Ince the outer rim is sort of polished you can really unless your 1 meter from the car. Im 99% sure they are forged and have this printed under the center cap They are 100% genuine, I have owned the car since 04/05 or so. 17x9'', include center caps, was fitted to an R32 GTR. I did have the tool to remove the center caps but I couldnt find it the other day so used my back up method, an oil filter tool (rubber strap type). Last time tyres were fitted they spun straigh and balanced fine. They have not incurred any damage since. These are nice and strong, a few years ago I read on a forum someone hit a gutter at atleast 30klm when they lost it. Popped the tyre but the rim was 100% fine bar a small mark and sealed when a new tyre was fitted. They are a 3 pce wheel, so if you damage one it can be cheaper/easier to fix then say an R33 GTR wheel. Not to mention these have a bit of a lip which comes up great with some elbow grease and silvo. This is what they look like fitted to cars. I dont have any pics on this PC of my car. http://www.jdmeuro.com/bbs-rs-nissan-skyline-r32-skyline-gt-r-vspec-2-classy-godzilla/ Note this guy is using +5mm spacers, I used +2mm This is pretty much how my car sat with +2mm spacers, visually there is hardly a noticable difference http://speedierimports.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=97686242 http://r32taka.com/2013/04/29/bnr32-bbs-rs/ http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/57985-r32-gtr-nismo.html The tyres currently on them are not usable at all, looking for $1150. If you need these fitted/balanced with brand new tyres add: Federal 595SS 235/45/17 $105 ea Advan AD08 245/45/17 $210 ea (yes this is very cheap, sorry I can only have them fitted to my wheels at this price) If you want other tyres/sizes I can ring up but they will be pretty much what you can get them for. I can have these shipped via courier, I would imagine it would cost around $90-$100 to Brisbane/GC or Melb. ACT might be a little less, SA might be a bit more. No problem inspecting or pick up in Sydney. Contact me via PM or send me your number If your interstate and want pic's ASAP please pm me so I will make it happen sooner then later. If your in sydney and want pic's, just pm me to arrange a look, they are exactly how I discribed and you wont be dissapointed!

yep still got it

water is an option I want to test, I also grabbed my jet drills so I can drill the nozzles if the need be. I wanted to do this over the weekend but ran out of time. That link above is a guy who tested various nozzles http://www.dsmtuners...st-results.html Set-up specifics: The engine on the dyno was a relatively stock 2.3L Ford engine out of a late 80's Thunderbird. The turbo was a Holset HX-35 running at 22-23 psi. The engine was producing roughly 450HP and 389 ft/lb torque. The nozzles were all mounted in the same location throughout the tests - about 4" away from the compressor nut. The pump used was the Devil's Own 250 psi pump. Here are the results that we gathered: No injection; Before IC temp increase - 29 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 4 deg/sec Peak boost 22.09 PSI ------------------------------------------------------ 1GPH 50/50 mix; Before IC temp increase - 19.1 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3.0 deg/sec Peak boost 22.88 PSI 1GPH H20; Before ic temp increase - 24.2 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3.4 deg/sec Peak boost 23.21 PSI 1GPH Washer Solvent; Before IC temp increase - 24 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3 deg/sec Peak boost 22.96 PSI --------------------------------------------------- 7GPH 50/50 mix; Before IC temp increase - 16.9 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 4.5 deg/sec Peak boost 22.96 PSI 7GPH Water; Before IC temp increase - 13 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 4.7 deg/sec <---no IC fan - OOPS! Peak boost 22.92 PSI 7GPH Methanol; Before IC temp increase - 19.3 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3.5 deg/sec Peak boost 23.0 PSI 7GPH Washer Solvent; Before IC temp increase - 11 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3.8 deg/sec Peak boost 23.3 PSI ----------------------------------------------------------- 10GPH Methanol; Before IC temp increase - 14.3 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3.2 deg/sec Peak boost 23.05 PSI 10GPH Washer Solvent Before IC temp increase - 11.2 deg/sec After IC temp increase - 3.4 deg/sec Peak boost 22.71 PSI I think he mentions why they were getting surge at the end of the run in the above link. I have tested pre ic and post ic on a car a while ago. With the right size nozzles and pump you can basically do away with your IC. Problem is you need atleast a 15ltr tank and you need to spray pretty early to get any form of consistency otherwise the heat compounds. When you pump enough pre ic (I would imagine pre turbo too) you loose IC efficiency, so it basically starts to heat the air. Running another nozzle before the throttle body recifies this So, if I start injecting too much I start to go backwards. It would make sense to find the point just before this happens to isolate how effective pre turbo injection is. Then intergrate the normal water injection back in to combat any negligable negative effects of "interheating" and to do what WI normally purpose. There are guys who spray so much into the turbo that they see benifits at the engine, but in my experience its best to be able to manage the amount going into the engine without having to do a shit load of testing finding out how much the turbo is consuming, how much the IC is consuming (and this can be VERY inconsistent) then hoping you get enough at the ports. I digress, next logical thing to do is test water only, I would bet my left nut that the majority of the meth is being evaporated before it gets to the turbo, good for cooler intake temps but not so good since I suspect the current nozzles are too small to be effective. Then drill out the nozzles and retest water and water/meth. To give an idea of the nozzles, the smallest jet drill I have is 0.3mm and it wont fit in the orifice! There is also a "pill" insert inside the nozzle which directs flow and can also limit flow. Without it the nozzle wont fog and shoots a Jet of water. Here is a pic I found on the net of a typical nozzle insert These slots are much larger then the DO.75 nozzles which also have only 2 slots, maybe the thickness of paper! So while drilling the nozzle orifice larger, in reality I will probably need to figure out how I can make the 2 slots in the DO.75 nozzles either wider or deeper or maybe even both?! Any ideas?

The 2530s are off for mods, they wont be rebuilt, just modified. since compressor errosion is a very likely I thought testing this stuff while its off is as good as its going to get. You cant get the HKS comp wheels like the garretts so risking it isnt feasible. If I had -5's it might be a different ball game since comp wheels are $110 each. I wouldnt worry about the stockers too much. This set was originally on the car, ran atleast 1.2 bar for 5 years straight. Had a stint at 18psi which would spike 19.5 in the upper rpms. Even previously on a stock ecu and stock boost control it would hold 15.7psi above 6500rpm and it ran that way for a year or so.

Continued. Ran out of time before... I dont intend to replace my post IC set up with pre turbo only. That was never the intention. Injecting to the point of being able to tune off it would result in nothing but testing the advantages of both. Im trying to isolate the pre turbo side of things since I already know what injecting post IC does. I considered the air atomizing nozzles but its not for me, maybe later. Basically they are a derivitive of a spray gun nozzle. Introducing a leak into the system seems probmatic. Im far from being a self proclaimed water injection expert, but this isnt my first gig. I am playing with pre turbo WI to answer my own questions and curiosity and as expected, some questions are being answered while it opens up new questions. If I find bonafide results from 3rd gear logs I might take it to a dyno. While I dont get free dyno use anymore, its practially free but for me its far more convienient to do 3rd gear logs and compare speed Vs. time and break them into sectors to see low, mid or upper gains if any At the moment, im knock limited. The only way to move forward is testing larger nozzles which I will have to order. Probably will have to go to the point of injecting till the engine noise quietens and go down 1 or 2 sizes or just go off the heat the greddy pipes are generating after a run. This is probably the only way to roughly figure out that there is being enough water injected but not so much its going through the IC and into the engine without buying thermistors. I guess in the mean time I can test it with the boost control off which is about 10psi with the system off and then switch it back on for back to back As for maxing out the stock compressors, I have my doubts. There was a guy in the US who was rebuilding his engine and ran them up till they blew, started at 14psi and got to 450hp and 25psi till his particular ones let go. Im game but not stupid.

ATI 600hp damper Brand new in box $480

Genuine Sard fuel pressure regulator, brand new in the box. Reg is in unopened plastic! Also including the nissan fuel rail adaptor $180 Can get pics but the reg is at my parents place, if your desperate for pics let me know otherwise I wont rush to get them This is not a fake or sard style copy crap.

The nozzles for pre turbo are devilsown nozzles. They are not a "jet" but a mist. It is their DO.75 which they rate at about 50cc. Measuring them with the pump im using results in a little more then what they rated them at. It was tested with water only, water/meth flows a bit faster but I doubt much difference with such small nozzles Testing them off the car results in the majority of it evaporating after about 80cm. This indicated that there probably wont be enough flow and that the droplets are fairly small. Add to that im running a 50/50 mix by weight which is approx 40/60 water/meth volume which is probably way too much meth for pre turbo since the meth will flash so quickly The pump im using should be well over 300psi, I couldnt test it with these nozzles since I couldnt find my pressure gauge. Its running a 2 port solenoid mainly for shut off to stop drips and siphoning. Nozzles are mounted in the top of the filters

draw through set ups 15-20 years ago (and more) wern't breaking comp wheels with fluid volumes significantly higher then 2x 70cc nozzles. i'll take pics if it happens

turbo responce is actually slower when you consider boost Vs. time. I have a couple of logs from about 2k to about 150klm back to back which shows a 0.7s reduction in time with pre turbo WI on. They are stock turbos, which were run for about 5-6 years at 17-18 psi so they are worthless anyway. I would like to see the effects on stockers before I consider using it on anything worth while. Comp wheel damage is possible which is why im trying it on shitters. Not so sure on how the housings will get damaged though