sucram

Here is a mounting bracket that is 90% complete. I have highlighted the holes that require elongation so horizontal adjustment can be made. I lowered the shield slightly which puts a little more pressure on the spring for the bi xenon and bending a tab on one side doesn't do much for horizontal. Left side was spot on, no adjustment needed. Drivers side gave me all sorts of problems, I had to remove it once as there wasn't enough, then after everything was aligned something went wrong when reinstalling the covers and it had to come out again. Note, the pivot has to be Epoxied in place. 2 slots were cut so it could slide down into place.

I cut these pieces to clear the lower adjustor. Make sure you cut the correct side for the corresponding projector

I trimmed the tabs that nismo_man used to mount his (see back a few pages, it wont let me link). Doing this gives room to use the oem nylon mounts

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Instead of doing a separate full write up I will post what I did different too keep it all in one place Bulbs are Phillips and Matsushita ballasts with FXR 3.0 3'' I found that placing the headlight glass in towards the heating element works better, it seems the glass transfers heat to the glue faster allowing lower temp/times to be used. I have tried both 200 deg c switch off and in for 10 mins and 100 deg c left on for 7mins since my RHS needed to come back out even after making sure they were good without both lenses fitted I made a template from cardboard and transferred it to 2mm sheet alloy. I planned to make it from 3mm but I didn't have any bits the right size and didn't want to cut it from a bigger sheet I had. Turns out 2mm is fine The first pic is a trial fit. If you choose to do it this way don't rush your cuts, the 2nd one needed a lot of work with a file since I got lazy and snapped a blade. I used a jig saw with metal blade to cut it. If you have a hole saw big enough that would be an option. You cant do it with a hacksaw unless you have a 360 deg diamond/carbide blade that cuts in any direction.

colour of the ceramic has little to do with det and more to do with overall mixture. Unless you hot shut down your car after a dyno pull or track run, every cycle will change it there after. If you want to look at det you need to look at the strap under magnification Not sure about the green, but the green ones are slightly leaner so you can either try richening those cylinders up of leaning off the other ones. sand blast or soak in upper engine cleaner and put them back in if you don't want to do that to your new plugs

I needed aluminium tape and seen that tape in bunnings. Not sure if its the right stuff. I ended up getting aluminium tape from Jaycar for $11 rated to 120 deg c. It looks more like the tape used on the Gibson car. Bunnings starts at like $26 I doubt either would do much on a greddy hard pipe kit, its already polished alloy If you don't like the look just paint it with 2k or engine enamel (something that wont scratch easy) or ceramic coat it. Wrapping a hard pipe kit will add Zero gains. One hit on boost with 100deg + outlet temps from the turbo and it will be just as hot as anything else. Have a close look at the Gibson picture, they "over trimmed" the manifold heat shields. They could have had warping issues due to temp so they were trying the "more airflow" approach then that caused a heat soak issue in pit stops. TLDR Hot side don't worry about it or just paint/coat it for looks/preference. Cold side do what you can to stop heat soak only if you have long cross over pipes (rb20/25). RB26 is too short to bother with

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I think someone in the US is still making them.

I wouldn't use a beanie if your car is used on a circuit, it will heat fatigue your housing. I don't think your turbo has a stainless housing but if its iron like 99% of housings it could be 1 year, could be 10 but it will fatigue crack and possibly warp if your doing regular circuit work. Drags and street is fine though. Of course you can touch a beanie afterwards, they are 1'' thick! What cracks them is the surface temp/core temp differs and fatigues over time Best bet is to make your own from ACL and rivet it together. Depending on how well you make it, it will be just as good without any risk. If you only spend 20 mins making it, you may as well make a heat shield out of cheaper mats Competition coatings in Guilford will be 1/3rd the price on gcg, hi octane coatings etc.

Don't bang fat chicks and you should be right! You kidding, evo 3 is probably the best looking out of all (stock)

was gonna say looks like prodrive but not sure which ones

400 rwkw is doable with a 35r, car went 130 mph with a manual in an R33

would make a good street turbo even on a 2.0 on ulp

what housing is on that?

Pull the battery and put it on trickle charge Lube your rubbers up with armour all Run it near empty or use a bit of the fuel storage stuff or use some 2 stroke oil

Its common for riders in 2nd and 3rd to just sit, wait for the last lap and pounce. Rossi rode well but on the 2 last laps both Ped and Marques started walking away

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another option is a resonator tip, they knock a few DB but idle sound isn't changed. They have pros and cons, cheap and easy to fit.

JB weld on the core if it cant be welded

When the sensor fails it comes up with a message on the display. More of an FYI

I wouldn't go off the dampers markings, you need a dial gauge to do it properly to locate TDC

a switched set up wouldn't be hard, RB VCT solenoid and inlet actuator, tee the oil pressure sensor for oil feed, rpm activated switch. Hardest part would be blocking the oil feed for the front cam journal and routing and drilling for the solenoid in its place. You would want a TIG on hand just in case you drill in the wrong spot! continual variable would be a challenge, since you need to add cam position sensors, a better solenoid (PWM), actuator and an ecu that not only has target cam position, but that can actually control it and do so within 10ths of a second

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