sucram

To answer your original question, outright power wont change, tuned exactly the same peak power and tq is governed by engine spec, condition etc. Everything before peak power the difference can be minimal to 20hp in certain areas (although very rare). The newer ecu's have some compensation tables which help with drivability. 5Hp is noticeable to most in off boost power Then it comes down to features, pay more you get more. If you hardly use them, your paying for wank factor. If you compete with your car and have a dog box or better, launch and flat change will be worth it. On a street car you will eat syncros if used often. So start going to the gym now so you can do a gearbox R/R by yourself. The only time more map resolution is of benefit is when you have something funky going on- more common on NA engines with harmonics. The director of a large ECU company told me many years ago that they can do 100x100, but its just time entering zones repeatedly and at a starting price of $120 per hour for tuning it will add up. On the street (and forums or even friends too) there is a lot of "you should" this and that and in a perfect world where money/time, car off the road is no object, sure! For this reason, anyone who asks about my car, its stock with an exhaust and im happy with it, I don't have to listen to their BS or questions. If it was me, I would use the PFC and go from there. Why? Because I know guys who can map one from initialize to done in less then an hour which includes a lot of drivability and economy stuff. Sit it overnight for cold start and its done. Then go from there

Sydney sucram Members 228 posts Gender:Male Location:sydney

bump

bump

bump

4.375?

split the difference or make it interpolate later

That is more of a djetro/MAP sensor thing with ITB's as you are going from vac to zero vac just by opening the throttle a touch more. You can rescale and use tps voltage enrichment to help but you will always have to compromise a bit. The normal power fc doesn't have this issue. End of the day if your accelerating you want that extra fuel, the timing is more important and is more compromised. I.e if your accelerating though a low rpm, zero vac though the gears with no knock, but come to a typical suburban 90 deg corner, 2nd gear that is up hill it will knock. This rpm zone is also usually 2k at 60klm in top gear and wont knock. If I were you I would be aiming for high 13's on that enrichment, but you don't have a 2.6 anymore so that extra bit of power will mean fk all to you so you will just be wasting fuel... If you want to get really anal, you can also drop your base fuel pressure a bit to gain more control at the lower duty cycles, obviously if you have the head room for it. If your at 90% it wont make fk all different to top end running it at 95% max if your aim is to gain more control down low. Its not like any of you are stupid enough to run a wide band close loop while on boost, and even if you did your trim wont come into effect quick enough for a boost spike/overboost anyways. NB if you have 2000cc and only using 45% max inj duty you wont be able to lower base pressure much, you will dribble fuel.

gold plated valving, is that the same as motec system exhaust

If someones interested in rotors I might be interested in the calipers

Sounds like power fc miss. Additional ground wires reduced the frequency of mine and severity but its still there

^ yeah just youtube it so you get an idea, should be heaps You will drop power with a 86mm muffler, maybe as much as 20kw with the turbo your thinking of compared to a 4'' but you will be able to get it much quieter then any (traditional) 4'' even if the majority of your system is 4'' . To give you an idea, you will make atleast another 30kw with a twin 4'' compared to a single 4'', perhaps more but the problem you run into is weight, noise, cost etc. I haven't personally tested a duel 4'' but have seen results on something with only 200kw and its about 12kw at that power level. The point im making is exhaust size for the first 3'- 4' off the turbo is more critical as it is still expanded (due to heat), after that it starts to cool/contract more and more so size at the rear muffler can be stepped down with less of a power loss. Looks like your from quebec, you might be best off contacting an agent and buying a used 4'' from Japan auctions.

A smaller rear muffler isn't as much of a drop in power as most people think. Gasses have mostly stopped expanding by then and the requirement for flow is less. It will be lower in power but not much and it will also be quieter. I wouldn't use it as a mid muffler! Off the turbo use a conical reducer to increase the size to 4'' or more. A 5'' can be a little hard to fit but doable. Then use another set of reducers to decrease the size under the firewall. This will also have give more linear power. In addition an angled rear muffler section will be more linear then one that has an S bend and is mounted straight. Adding EWG back into mainstream exhaust will mean less overall flow and also introduce turbulence. I.e drop power and increase spool time. Next external WG set up I run im going to try a motorbike Ti muffler, venting externally. It will still be loud, but probably tolerable and might even sound cool/unique. Cracking the gate in day to day driving in traffic, realistically isn't going to happen much. Maybe if you have 4.4's I would suggest to buy a second hand 4'' cat back. Cut the flange off if its a 3'' and make it add a 4''. Add an additional muffler/resonator, make a dump pipe to suit. Then decide what you want to do with the wastegates

Back in the 90's some cars had really small BOV ports, think S4/5 Rx7, RS liberty etc, They were 10-12mm and if you were running a bit of power, you would get between gear surge and lag. It physically couldn't flow the air if you were running about 200 kw to the wheels. If your roughly doubling the HP at 600 atw you want something bigger then 24mm. From what I can recall, all of the EFR turbos that will make this have a rectangle outlet larger then this. Follow the KISS theory, use the EFR and stock bov's, if they surge then do something about it. Make sure your stock BOV lines are large (6mm +), unblocked and take the shortest path and you will be fine

Back in the 90's some cars had really small BOV ports, think S4/5 Rx7, RS liberty etc, They were 10-12mm and if you were running a bit of power, you would get between gear surge and lag. It physically couldn't flow the aie if you were running about 200 kw to the wheels. If your roughly doubling the HP at 600 atw you want something bigger then 24mm at from what I can recall, all of the EFR turbos that will make this have a rectangle outlet larger then this. Follow the KISS theory, use the EFR and stock bov's, if they surge then do something about it. Make sure your stock BOV lines are large (6mm +), unblocked and take the shortest path and you will be fine

Maybe try a 4 port BSC, should do what you need instead of waiting for a new spring

Doubt you would notice much, I would use the EFR bov and Stock, once set up I might try blocking/removing the OEM bov's and see if there is any difference. I would expect minimal difference though

I used to run 36 all round, dropped to 33 in the front, couldn't stand the noise from cracks in the roads on the direzza Z1's. I must be getting old...

Wow that's expensive Toluene is $60 for 20L which means you also are paying about $30 less in actual fuel @$1.50 per/l and will make an easy 10kw or 20kw on cars with "self learn/active ignition" standard ecu's

If it was 25psi or under, yes under inflated but 32psi is BS. I would go to the manufacture and provide a copy of the invoice. For example if you were using them on the track, and wanted 38 psi hot temps, you would be starting at around 32 psi cold depending on track, track temps, speed/driving style.

How much is it? Specifically to compare to the price of tolulene Your "stock ECU" revs to nearly 8500rpm??? From my experience, more oxygenated fuels will run leaner with a mapped ECU. Im pretty sure stock BNR ECU's will ignore their O2 sensor and use the AFM's. But for some reason, your car is seeing more air flow and the mixtures are richer, where the product claims to be oxygenated which should be leaner. I also agree with GTSboy, the Nissan ECU's don't have an active knock circuit, more reactive where noise is registered and it pulls timing. Its not like the 99-on Sub WRX/STi's which can "release" additional timing within its pre configured tolerance Lastly, I would completely ignore the torque increase (at 2-3.5K) going off this run, one run starts starts before 2300rpm and the other starts after 3200 RPM so you can expect a massive difference

was this with a stock Y pipe or mod/aftermarket?

Euro Lux are bright and wide. They have ECE cut offs so expect to blind everyone in front of you on the side which has no real cut off. I was in front of one and it was reflecting off my side mirror, super annoying and distracting, I couldn't get my head out of the way. If you use them make your own cut off, if your following a cop and he see's that kind of stuff from his side mirror he will book you

wow that wiring is beyond lol your sig says "CRD tune 340klw" if it was them who did it, not surprised one bit

I have had it for a while, was going to be used on a project but I ended up going a different route. I would prefer to keep it in its bag until a genuine buyer requests with cash waiting. Nah, just make one up